Hell_City_Saint Posted March 28, 2015 Author Report Posted March 28, 2015 Like this? Yep! those are them! Are they technicall called "Bullet Connectors"? Quote
Hell_City_Saint Posted March 28, 2015 Author Report Posted March 28, 2015 Since the fire my switch went intermittent, so I bought a new one. I do nt like lights which have a mind of their own. The new switch has a fuse, the OE has a relay. Best to you as you continue. What type of switch did you get? I felt mine getting hot.. Dont like that. Quote
Hell_City_Saint Posted March 28, 2015 Author Report Posted March 28, 2015 (edited) First drive since 1982. About 300 Feet? No brakes. the transmission and clutch work really well, but she smokes...A LOT after warmng up for about 5 minutes. Dang it! Guess its time for rings. Hopeing its just burning out old crap including old gas. But I know better. http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o584/mcaincr/1951%20Dodge%20B3-C/1st%20drive_zpsw4stydbs.jpg Soooo ugly, Shes pretty Edited March 28, 2015 by Hell_City_Saint Quote
Hell_City_Saint Posted March 28, 2015 Author Report Posted March 28, 2015 What is a good tire size? I am going for original farm truck look Thanks again everone Quote
Young Ed Posted March 28, 2015 Report Posted March 28, 2015 Yep! those are them! Are they technicall called "Bullet Connectors"? I think so? A good hardware store or automotive shop should know what you mean. If they don't just ask to see their selection of terminals. If you can, bring your light switch with as there are a couple different sizes for the bullet part. 1 Quote
pflaming Posted March 28, 2015 Report Posted March 28, 2015 (edited) I bought my new switch at a NAPA type parts house. Downside I can't use OEM knobs. I do little night driving to date but good fishing in the near future is early morning, so got to have good tools. Edited March 28, 2015 by pflaming 1 Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted March 28, 2015 Report Posted March 28, 2015 Paul you can modify the OEM knob to fit. If the new switch came with a plastic knob chances are it has a threaded brass insert inside the plastic. Crack the knob and remove the insert. Drill out the back of the OEM knob and epoxy the insert into place. Jeff 1 Quote
_shel_ny Posted March 28, 2015 Report Posted March 28, 2015 (edited) What type of switch did you get? I felt mine getting hot.. Dont like that. Wire replacement, and cleaning of all the connection including all associated grounds may improve the heat situation by reducing resistance thereby lowering the current draw. You might consider installing a relay for the headlights to also reduce that current going through the switch. The switch would then just control the relay. Do advanced search "headlight relay" for some ideas/threads on that Edited March 28, 2015 by shel_ny 2 Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 28, 2015 Report Posted March 28, 2015 as Shel said above...using a relay and taking the current flow for the lights out of the switch itself will lead to a long long life of the component...only one relay is needed for both hi and lo..wire the relay between battery and input to the dimmer switch...use the headlight out on the original switch to pick up the relay energizing coil..you can use solid state relays that are available and operate between 3-32 volts input on the average.. 1 Quote
Hell_City_Saint Posted May 1, 2015 Author Report Posted May 1, 2015 All is going good. Paper work is in the process and she is almost road ready. One of the rear brake return springs snapped and I am having a heck of a time locating a replacement. Its a bout 5 1/4 inches long. Do any of you know of a replacement? Thanks again. Quote
Brent B3B Posted May 1, 2015 Report Posted May 1, 2015 Try "Roberts motor parts" or "vintage power wagons" Quote
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