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2 ton of fun


Brent B3B

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it has a 2-speed axle, and appears to be vacuum shift - see the last group of photos from the OP (brent), you can clearly see a vacuum shift diaphragm on the rear axle.

 

edit:  i wonder if the vacuum source/mechanism is located under the horn.  i can't really see what that thing is, but i don't have one on my truck

Edited by wallytoo
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I think probbaly the 2 speed 1350 Eaton axle was added later on Brents truck as the data plate does not show the "A" code.

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Here is what the factory installed 2-Speed rear axle shift button looks like on the shifter, the axle shift instruction plate and the firewall mounted vacuumn control valve that is used  on all B-series trucks up to the 4 tonners equiped with the optional 2-Speed rear axles.

Also shown is the rear axle shifter diaphram actuating unit on the 2-Speed rear axle.

Bob

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Edited by Dodgeb4ya
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I think probbaly the 2 speed 1350 Eaton axle was added later on Brents truck as the data plate does not show the "A" code.

.

Here is what the factory installed 2-Speed rear axle shift button looks like on the shifter, the axle shift instruction plate and the firewall mounted vacuumn control valve that is used  on all B-series trucks up to the 4 tonners equiped with the optional 2-Speed rear axles.

Also shown is the rear axle shifter diaphram actuating unit on the 2-Speed rear axle.

Bob

i was hoping you would chime in :)  you probably forgot more than i'll ever know and i do appreciate it

 

more comparison photos, from my 1350-equipped truck

 

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two mystery knobs (to me ) on the dash post-6005-0-64686300-1424370272_thumb.jpg and what i will call a switch located at the back of the block post-6005-0-48756000-1424370414_thumb.jpg

wonder if they have anything to do with the add on?

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the large white knob looks to be in line with the switch setup at the back of the block (under the horn).  could be the 2-speed, but it would sure be awkward to operate, especially for split-shifting.  hi-lo shifting wouldn't be too bad.

 

the unlabled black knob in line with the other knobs and key is the throttle set (makes running the pto easier than holding the gas pedal).

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No special supplemental shop manuals for the bigger trucks except the 3-1/2 ton VXX models tandem axle truck.

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Yep... M=COE.... 1-1/2 through 2-1/2 ton models.

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The pics that Wallytoo posted from his 1350 were what I was referencing for 2 speed associated hardware.  From the other dash pics, it looks like this was an old firetruck.  I've never seen the mechanism below the horn before, and can't see if there is plumbing attached to it.  I'm wondering if this is an auxiliary cooler that pumpers used to divert water from the tank to cool the engine while pumping hard and the stock cooling system couldn't handle the job due to the truck being stationary.   That large knob under the dash could have been the pto that engaged the pto for the pump.  My truck had something similar when I first bought it.   Mike

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2-1/2 ton K series was the heaviest series COE truck.

Wish they would have made a H-duty Moly Block COE.

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It's not me... I have never owned a  4 wheel drive truck!

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replaced the plugs, cap, rotor, wires etc. working on getting (4) stuck valves functioning this weekend 

had extra help from my granddaughters  post-6005-0-02414700-1425270492_thumb.jpg

and the neighbors dog  post-6005-0-69542200-1425270530_thumb.jpg

 

the person who sold me this truck never put the title in his name. so, I was able to contact the person who owned it prior..... he suggested it was "designed to transport airplanes" on a military base back in the day..... also said he put the box on in 1975. anyone heard or seen these truck being used for that purpose?

I was looking for some photo's and my short research this far only shows what looks like power wagons near the base. i asked if he had photo's, he said no. I am kind of curious about the holes in the roof and the three holes in the center section of the hood post-6005-0-78205000-1425270509_thumb.jpg  and the front bumper (both sides) post-6005-0-31467900-1425270470_thumb.jpg

he wasn't clear on the holes or the switch labeled "siren"  

 

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Follow me truck? Those are usually yellow or white for hi-vis on the runways....they would have used tugs if it was a larger airport.

no kidding, that might explain it, one of the exterior colors looks to be yellow as shown under the peeling paint (photo with my neighbors dog) Thanks 

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sorry to beat this topic to death.... i have a question about stuck valves.

Four of the valves were stuck. i was able to get two freed up but, two are not cooperating. (to the point they won't lift out past their highest point)  This truck won’t be a daily driver

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i read conflicting information on line about grinding and lapping new valves.

1.) is grinding and lapping necessary on new valves?

2.) any opinion on replacing only the two that are an issue and clean up the rest? my frugal side says replace only the two valves and see what you’ve got…. The practical side says, you have it apart replace the valves, guides and springs.

 

Brent

 

(one of my new favorite sounds is that of a stuck valve snapping back into position :) )

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Four of the valves were stuck. i was able to get two freed up but, two are not cooperating. (to the point they won't lift out past their highest point) 

 

 

 

Brent

 

(one of my new favorite sounds is that of a stuck valve snapping back into position :) )

 

So, are you saying that the 2 valves will move some, but can't be fully removed? That may indicate a burr on the end of the stem. If this is the case you should try filing the very edge of the valve stem so that it will clear the guide.

Or are you saying they will only go up a little bit and will get stuck? This would indicate that there is a fair amount of varnish, or rust, on the stems that won't slide easily through the valve guide. Try spraying the stems, under the valve guides, with carburetor cleaner to break down the varnish and keep working them until they free up.

 

If they move even a little bit you can salvage it without replacing the valves. If you have damaged valves, ie. broken heads or bent stems, then you should replace them.

 

Merle

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i would guess the varnish or rust is the issue. i compressed the spring, took off the keepers and rotated the tappet to push the valve back up. (to it's highest point) then tried to rotate and remove. no luck.

i had to tap with a rubber mallet to move back down. and repeated (15 to 20 times) at some point will the varnish or rust wear on the valve guide? 

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replaced all the valves this weekend post-6005-0-22738700-1425872487_thumb.jpg put everything back together filled the carb and bingo! started up!

I was as happy as Dolly Dodge in his thread (minus the dancing :D ) it ran until the gas in the carb ran out....... fuel pump not working..

I have a new rebuild kit. will try and tear into this week... any advice on the double fuel pump? post-6005-0-30529500-1425873044_thumb.jpg

 

oh, I thought this was cool to see the bed kind of resembles the bed in a clipping I had framed about 10years ago   :)

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I think you need about 5 cans of brake clean and a scrub brush under that hood before I'd runner her too much! LoL That's a very different pump, I'm amazed you can still get a kit for it. If worse comes to worse, you could plumb in an electric fuel pump, their fairly cheap for the ones for carb pressure.

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I think you need about 5 cans of brake clean and a scrub brush under that hood before I'd runner her too much! LoL That's a very different pump, I'm amazed you can still get a kit for it. If worse comes to worse, you could plumb in an electric fuel pump, their fairly cheap for the ones for carb pressure.

LOL, clean! that debris is what is holding everything together :D  got the kit from http://www.classicpreservation.com/fuelpumpkits.html we'll see how it goes.

 

wow, that one looks nice post-6005-0-75847300-1425914141_thumb.jpg post-6005-0-92939700-1425914170_thumb.jpg thanks for posting, i am still not allowed to look at CL or ebay for awhile :(

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