48hoopty Posted October 6, 2017 Report Posted October 6, 2017 I posted this question in a new thread bit never got a response. Those that have done the 8.8 swap with disc brakes here is my question. the outside frame width is 48 1/4 wide..same as the springs. The distance between the calipers is around 46 with the banjo bolt being the narrowest point. Has any one had issues with clearance between the calipers and the frame with range of motion? Especially with a 2 or 3" drop thanks Quote
bob westphal Posted October 6, 2017 Report Posted October 6, 2017 I'm using a '72 Satellite 8 1/4. Original wheels fit and bolts right in with no mods. 1 1 Quote
65 Dartman Posted October 12, 2017 Report Posted October 12, 2017 On 10/6/2017 at 12:34 PM, bob westphal said: I'm using a '72 Satellite 8 1/4. Original wheels fit and bolts right in with no mods. I just picked up a 71 Charger 8.75 for my 47 Quote
Dartgame Posted October 12, 2017 Report Posted October 12, 2017 Hey Bob - are you saying you did not need to move the spring perches ? Quote
55 Fargo Posted October 13, 2017 Report Posted October 13, 2017 3 hours ago, Dartgame said: Hey Bob - are you saying you did not need to move the spring perches ? I also used a 1988 Mopar 8 1/2 diff on my 55 Fargo truck, and the spring perches did line up, but the wrong pinion angle. I did not do the swap, but used steel shims to correct the pinion angle. I am going to pull this diff, and swap in a 3.55 posi Mopar 8 1/4 or redo the crown and pinion in mine, but will also at that time weld on new perches. Yah original wheels fit but mine have 10 inch modern self energizing drum brakes, they work well.. Quote
Dartgame Posted October 13, 2017 Report Posted October 13, 2017 Hi Fargo- what vehicle is your axle from ? 1988 _____. ? It sounds like you used the wedge shims to corrrect the angle ? For the limited slip - are you using a donor carrier or another axle assembly ? Quote
bob westphal Posted October 17, 2017 Report Posted October 17, 2017 The '72 perches are placed about an inch farther apart than the the '48 perches. I just pulled the springs farther apart a tad. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 17, 2017 Report Posted October 17, 2017 2 hours ago, bob westphal said: The '72 perches are placed about an inch farther apart than the the '48 perches. I just pulled the springs farther apart a tad. on compression you adding a twisting into the mix with the given angle you created Quote
Tom Posted November 8, 2017 Report Posted November 8, 2017 Rear end from 93 Ford Ranger in my 1940 D14 ... Moved spring pads outboard to 46 1/2 inches used 1/2 inch wheel spacers with 15” Ford wheels new brake lines to install stock rear brake hose and brass tee custom made driveshaft....stock transmission to Ranger pinion flange stock shock mounts Works perfect! Quote
dale Posted November 9, 2017 Report Posted November 9, 2017 On 2/3/2015 at 2:37 PM, FESTER60 said: I used a Ford Explorer rear from a 01 so I could get the factory disc brakes. On thing about that, The stock wheels will not fit. They won't clear the calipers. I ended up using Jeep wrangler steel wheels. Even then I needed 1/2" spacers and had to notch a small piece out of the caliper. All is good now. I used a 1999 Explorer which had disc brakes on my 46 Ply . Used stock 48 Ply 15 inch wheels and 670-15 size narrow radials from Coker for tires. Used 1/4 inch spacers which made the rims clear the calipers nicely. Overall width was good also. Quote
40desoto Posted November 10, 2017 Report Posted November 10, 2017 Ill need to do more research and spend a bit more time reading this thread and reading all the resouces provided here. Heres my situation; Im running a 265 engine with a T5 5 speed transmission. Ive read that if I use the 2.73 gearded rear end that I will rending first gear useless. Im trying to determine if a 3.55 or 3.73 gear will work best with my setup Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted November 10, 2017 Report Posted November 10, 2017 in today modern world and the OD playing a role in every make and model the few things still ring true. Today gearing is based around a speed limit of 70 mph and the gear ratio to torque to maintain this speed is based on 200 rpm below the peak torque of the engine at the lowest rpm. the 200 below is so that while using cruise control or feathering with your foot the ability to maintain speed on slight rises like an overpass without a down shift. do the math...your 2.73 in 5th OD at say .72 is a final drive of 1.96 Quote
Robert Horne Posted November 10, 2017 Report Posted November 10, 2017 6 hours ago, 40desoto said: Ill need to do more research and spend a bit more time reading this thread and reading all the resouces provided here. Heres my situation; Im running a 265 engine with a T5 5 speed transmission. Ive read that if I use the 2.73 gearded rear end that I will rending first gear useless. Im trying to determine if a 3.55 or 3.73 gear will work best with my setup With my Ranger 5 speed/218 setup/3.73, my first gear is almost like a "granny" gear, (great in Virginia though), and top gear is great over 40mph. Hope to try 3.55 soon. With a 2.7 rear, my top gear would not get much use, unless I was going downhill..... Quote
chopt50wgn Posted November 10, 2017 Report Posted November 10, 2017 This is a pic from the rear of my 50 Ply wagon. We put an Heidts independent rear in. My buddy Tim who is a fabricator by trade and has 30 years experience building hot rods and race cars did the install. Car rides like a new Caddy. 2 1 Quote
belvedere666 Posted November 26, 2017 Report Posted November 26, 2017 Haven’t noticed, i may have overlooked, but has anyone put a 70-72 plymouth duster rear axle in a 49-52 plymouth? the length is a little shorter than stock but I’m running wider than stock wheels that should make up for that. and I understand that i will most likely need to have a new drive shaft made no matter which rear end I choose im concerned with the line up of the center section. I came across one locally at a decent price but I’m not sure about the fit. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted November 26, 2017 Report Posted November 26, 2017 (edited) many do not like the smaller size ring gear that is the 7.25 A-body differential even though the last of the rear wheel drive V8's used this size ring also. The single biggest drawback will be the 5 on 4" bolt circle. Now if you perhaps have found a 8 3/4 Duster rear axle with 5 x 4.5 I withdrawn my comment and add that if you can get it at the right price, you may do better selling it off to a muscle car type and get a rear axle from another source for your ap. Edited November 26, 2017 by Plymouthy Adams Quote
belvedere666 Posted November 26, 2017 Report Posted November 26, 2017 16 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said: many do not like the smaller size ring gear that is the 7.25 A-body differential even though the last of the rear wheel drive V8's used this size ring also. The single biggest drawback will be the 5 on 4" bolt circle. Now if you perhaps have found a 8 3/4 Duster rear axle with 5 x 4.5 I withdrawn my comment and add that if you can get it at the right price, you may do better selling it off to a muscle car type and get a rear axle from another source for your ap. I hadn’t even considered that it would have a smaller bolt pattern!!! i assumed All mopar cars of the time period had the 5x4 1/2 pattern. Damn. Ok. I’ll keep looking. THANKS. Quote
samdjr74 Posted July 5, 2019 Report Posted July 5, 2019 Great thread and something I'm considering. Has anyone swapped the rear in a 58 Coronet and if so what worked? Quote
Beto0311 Posted July 5, 2019 Report Posted July 5, 2019 I swapped my rear end with a dana 35c on my 51.. had it rebuilt to 355 posi.. just had to relocate the leaf spring perch's over 1/2" .. 1 1 Quote
48ply1stcar Posted January 9, 2020 Author Report Posted January 9, 2020 On 3/1/2016 at 9:32 PM, Allmyjunk said: The dana 35 out of a cherokee fit right in the drive shaft is kinda pricey though, it will be done Friday but regular u-joints and 355 gears should be a huge benefit for daily driveing Just going over this tread again. How did your swap turn out, did you post it with pictures. 1 Quote
Bob Riding Posted January 11, 2020 Report Posted January 11, 2020 On 11/8/2017 at 1:32 PM, Tom said: Rear end from 93 Ford Ranger in my 1940 D14 ... Moved spring pads outboard to 46 1/2 inches used 1/2 inch wheel spacers with 15” Ford wheels new brake lines to install stock rear brake hose and brass tee custom made driveshaft....stock transmission to Ranger pinion flange stock shock mounts Works perfect! hey Tom, I'm putting a '92 Ranger rear end under my '52 Plymouth Suburban. I need to get Ford drums and brakes- I plan on running stock 15" Plymouth wheels. Any suggestions as to were to get the Ford brakes and drums? Quote
Dartgame Posted January 13, 2020 Report Posted January 13, 2020 You should be able to buy all that stuff for the ranger axle from the parts store..... Quote
Tom Posted March 12, 2020 Report Posted March 12, 2020 Sorry for slow response...Dartgames post is exactly right....any of the franchise parts stores are a good source.. Quote
Solution 48ply1stcar Posted March 12, 2020 Author Solution Report Posted March 12, 2020 (edited) This what I finally did. 2000 Cherokee 8.25 Chrysler rear axle. Sorry not a lot of pictures. I had the swap done and I was too sick to hang out at the shop and pester the boys. I bought a rusty axle from a Minnesota savage yard I found on Ebay. $150 I brought the axle to the guys at AA driveline in Anoka, MN. They gutted the axle, then I brought it to a sandblaster/paint shop near by. I odered all of the brake parts from Rockauto. A 3-inch spring perch from Summit motors. AA Driveline was able use 3-inch spring shackles with the 2 3/4 inch shock mount, put everything together, installed it, and made a driveshaft. Just giving credit to the shop for a good experience. In on a Thursday out on a Friday. Edited March 12, 2020 by 48ply1stcar added info 1 Quote
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