Jump to content

Questions around intake removal and where to go next with improvements


Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

post-7596-0-98785500-1421365606_thumb.jpgAgain thanks everyone for your help I do have a manual but i do not think it is the original shop manual because there are no pictures and very little info on this or many of the procedures. I have done a web search but the manuals I see look the same as what I have or a slight variation. The table of contents looks like below

Edited by 52Suburban
Posted

Or above.... I did figure out that the exhaust manifold was changed and welded on. Again you all seem to be a great supportive community that hopefully I can contribute to as I learn more..........

Posted

have put a 230 in my 38 dodge ....made a split manifold and kept the stock heat riser intact.....also made a dual carb set-up like in don's picture.....carbs ice up when first warming up so have to let engine soak for a few minutes before starting again....question..what size jets as engine seems to be running rich.....2- b and b stock carbs off a 230 engine...haven't had car out yet for road test as working on rear end ...... seems  I  need smaller main jets??????? paul

Posted

Don & Tim re that pic of the carb leaning......never noticed that before......maybe I was leaning to one side...........lol........no matter now, its all sold............andyd

Posted

at the moment no air cleaners so that's not a problem .....am thinking two stock main jets could be too much for the engine......will have to take them out and see if smaller ones are available......will be better with a road test after a 3.73 rear end goes in......paul

Posted

George Asche will give you certain advice on that. He built a matched set of carbs for me.

Posted

For those of you interested in the Red's header: I contacted them yesterday and they said production is stopped due to manpower issues. But they are hoping to bring it back as early as late March

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Hello guys  - I am looking for some advice:

 

I am installing Langdon headers on my 49 (P-18) Plymouth.  My car has the fuel pump with the vacuum booster.  The lines from the vacuum booster are not connected to anything.  Due to the vacuum booster the headers hit the fuel pump.

 

QUESTION 1:  Any reason I can't replace the fuel pump with a non-booster type?

QUESTION 2:  For the vacuum lines that are not currently hooked up - do I need to do something about those?  Were they supposed to provide vacuum to the wipers? 

QUESTION 3.  For those with the Landon headers:  when you fabbed the exhaust where did you source the folange pipe that bolys to the headers?  I thought that finding the flange pipe would be super easy, but I have Googled and looked at Summitt,Jegs, etc. and haven't really seen what I think a need.

 

Thanks for any advice.

FYI: so far I have converted front brakes to disk, converted to a dual master cylinder, converted to the Petronix ignition, added a spin off oil filter adaptor.  I bought the car as 12V. 

Beside the dual exhaust my winter project list includes: dual carbs on Offenhauser manifold, replacing wiring with Rebel harness, replace king pins, modify the radiator brace for new aluminum radiator, etc.

 

THANKS

Posted

Hello guys  - I am looking for some advice:

 

I am installing Langdon headers on my 49 (P-18) Plymouth.  My car has the fuel pump with the vacuum booster.  The lines from the vacuum booster are not connected to anything.  Due to the vacuum booster the headers hit the fuel pump.

 

QUESTION 1:  Any reason I can't replace the fuel pump with a non-booster type?

QUESTION 2:  For the vacuum lines that are not currently hooked up - do I need to do something about those?  Were they supposed to provide vacuum to the wipers? 

QUESTION 3.  For those with the Landon headers:  when you fabbed the exhaust where did you source the folange pipe that bolys to the headers?  I thought that finding the flange pipe would be super easy, but I have Googled and looked at Summitt,Jegs, etc. and haven't really seen what I think a need.

 

Thanks for any advice.

FYI: so far I have converted front brakes to disk, converted to a dual master cylinder, converted to the Petronix ignition, added a spin off oil filter adaptor.  I bought the car as 12V. 

Beside the dual exhaust my winter project list includes: dual carbs on Offenhauser manifold, replacing wiring with Rebel harness, replace king pins, modify the radiator brace for new aluminum radiator, etc.

 

THANKS

 

I installed Langdons headers on my '38 & they hit the fuel pump. I removed it, made a block off plate/gasket & installed an electric fuel pump. As far as the flanges for the exhaust, I had a muffler shop do that for me (if no luck, get some 3/8 plate, cut-out the center hole with a hole saw, drill the mounting bolt holes, then torch & grind to shape). If you install an Offy manifold, I believe you can pick up the vacuum from there.

Posted (edited)

I installed Langdons headers on my '38 & they hit the fuel pump. I removed it, made a block off plate/gasket & installed an electric fuel pump. As far as the flanges for the exhaust, I had a muffler shop do that for me (if no luck, get some 3/8 plate, cut-out the center hole with a hole saw, drill the mounting bolt holes, then torch & grind to shape). If you install an Offy manifold, I believe you can pick up the vacuum from there.

Thanks Deathbound.  I was thinking of converting to an electronic fuel pump, but then noticed it was the vacuum booster that is in the way.  According to my Plymouth Service Manual my fuel pump with vacuum booster was supplied as special equipment.  hkestes41 picture above shows the front Langdon header clearing the normal fuel pump ... so I may go that route.

 

Does anyone know what was the purpose of the vacuum booster on the fuel pump? 

 

Also, Langdon supplied the actuals flat flanges ... what I am looking for would be a pipe with a lip  such that the flange would slip on the pipe and agaisnt the lip and hold the pipe against the donut.  This way the flange is "floating" on the pipe instead of being welded fast.  

Edited by My49Plymouth
Posted

Non vacuum fuel pumps are standard and and easier to find. Windshield wipers are then just hooked up to a vacuum fitting on the intake manifold.

Wipers will slow down or possible stop when in use and going up a hill as throttle is depressed to maintain speed as vacuum will drop in the intake. The optional vacuum fuel pump prevents this but oh well. Want the headers! :lol:

 

For the exhaust Fire pipes( the first part of the pipe is called that it is made of heavier metal for the higher temps.) talk to a good local muffler shop and they can deal with it all and probably do either a movable flange or weld to the pipe style . Your choice.

 

I know of to modifications that are required if you buy a replacement aluminum radiator to fit your car. I did for my 50 Ply. and should be the same radiator.

 

Found one one eBay for right at $200 including shipping. Spend some time comparing on eBay. I think the radiator I bought was a Champion brand. Others on this forum have also used that brand and have been happy with them. Get the part # off eBay and them go to the Champion radiator website for the specs to confirm correct for Your car.

 

DJ

Posted

Regarding the vacuum source, Put a vacuum reservoir with a check valve in line with the wipers and you won't miss the boosted fuel pump. I took mine out of an F250, bolted to the back of the right inner fender with almost no modification. Wipers work like electrics. Bonus.... If it comes out of a diesel it will have an electric vacuum pump attached to it that maintains 20in or so of vacuum and it is black plastic so it's hard to see.

  • Like 1
Posted

Suggest you go directly to Champion radiator and check there prices. You may find it is less expensive to buy directly from them as opposed to eBay.

 

P6180001_01.jpg

 

I also installed a vacuum reservoir as pictured below. I can still get 4-5 wiper swipes when I kill the engine .

 

vasres11.jpg

Posted

Thanks all ,

I am pretty sure my radiator is a Champion ... I installed it several months ago ... I keep the car in the garage and I don't take it out too often ...apparently I never tried to close the hood after I put it in ... I went to close the hood last week to take a picture ... the new dent in the hood where where the radiator cap is indicates that the radiator sits 1/4 inch too high.

 

The bottom of the radiator is sitting all the way down in the "frame".  Hence a litlle massaging is needed.

Posted

Dang, hope I don't run into that problem. I tried to install my champion radiator into my 52 dodge last night. Not quite there, I need to grind a little off the side mounts in order to slide it down all the way. On the topic of vaccuum, where do you guys suggest getting a vaccuum source besides swapping intakes? My car has electric wipers, no vacuum ports that I can see. I got a cool little 1920s-30s Trico dash mounted fan that's vaccuum operated that I would like to hook up

Posted

Dang, hope I don't run into that problem. I tried to install my champion radiator into my 52 dodge last night. Not quite there, I need to grind a little off the side mounts in order to slide it down all the way. On the topic of vaccuum, where do you guys suggest getting a vaccuum source besides swapping intakes? My car has electric wipers, no vacuum ports that I can see. I got a cool little 1920s-30s Trico dash mounted fan that's vaccuum operated that I would like to hook up

Check your intake again...small plumbers plug screwed into it is your port.....or get the fuel pump with dual action to boost your vacuum.

Posted

Check your intake again...small plumbers plug screwed into it is your port.....or get the fuel pump with dual action to boost your vacuum.

Thanks, I will look again

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use