Andydodge Posted February 14, 2015 Report Posted February 14, 2015 Fred.............my answer to metrics is......."what are those things at the end of your legs?.....metres or feet?........I rest my (imperial sized) case.............lol........you'll get it........andyd Quote
DonaldSmith Posted February 14, 2015 Report Posted February 14, 2015 (edited) A few years I did specifications for a hospital in Saudi Arabia. Fascinating. (You U.S. guys can gloss over the next two paragraphs. It's for the steeped-in-metric guys.) Our company drew the building first in an imperial module, but had to redesign it per a metric module. 8 inches is about 200 millimeters, but not quite. The guys learned to draw per a metric scale, and slogged through it. Our canned guide specs included a choice of imperial dimensions or metric conversions, or both. Some of the supplies came in imperial dimensions,others in metric. I had to tell the framers for gyp board to verify whether the gypsum board was coming 4 ft wide (1,219.2 mm) or 1,200 mm wide. The difference in stud spacing adds up. Temperature conversions wrestle with what to do with the 32 degrees F from 0 degrees F to 0 degrees Celsius. Then there's a 9 to 5 conversion. Zero degrees Celsius is 32 degrees Fahrenheit, and 100 degrees C is 192 degrees F. But a 100 degree C temperature range, as on an aluminum storefront, is a 180 degree F range. (OK, back to the U.S. stuff.) Our new cars are all metric, so we have both types of wrenches and sockets. Our old cars are all imperial measurement (including the dreaded 5/32-inch), except for the spark plugs. For $100,000 and the game, what is the size of spark plug threads? Time's up - 14 millimeter. (18 millimeter for some Ford products.) Edited February 14, 2015 by DonaldSmith Quote
Don Coatney Posted February 14, 2015 Report Posted February 14, 2015 I pump my tires up to 2.3442174753167 Bars. Is that correct? Quote
TodFitch Posted February 14, 2015 Report Posted February 14, 2015 . . . but i founder every time when it comes to things like 5/32" or whatever, . . You aren't the only one. I know a contractor in the US who does commercial building interiors who equipped his employees with metric only measuring tapes and require their use. It reduced the number of mistakes enough to reduce his overall costs and time enough to give him a competitive advantage. I've been known to use the metric side of my measuring tape from time to time too though I have to admit I don't have the same "gut feel" for sizes expressed in meters or centimeters as I do for feet and inches. For backcountry I've become schizophrenic: I prefer kilometers for horizontal measures as that fits nicely with the UTM grid on the topo maps but I an unable to deal with elevation in meters and must have that in feet. Quote
Cpt.Fred Posted February 14, 2015 Author Report Posted February 14, 2015 (edited) I have to admit I don't have the same "gut feel" for sizes expressed in meters or centimeters as I do for feet and inches. That is the exact core of the problem: both systems have their pros and cons, but the fact that matters most is that they're instilled straight from birth. First time i ever stumbled upon imperial measurements was when i was like 15 or something? You just don't get it out of your head. I always try to visualize a clock to get things right, and it works pretty well down to 1/4. It takes longer with 1/8 and i lose it from there... No one really gets to choose his measuring system from the beginning on, right? Don, you're pretty much correct as long as you're running radials As to the spark plug thread, wasn't that because some german guys, Honold and Bosch invented the spark plug in the early 20th century and got both german and US patents for it? Correct me if i'm wrong. Edited February 14, 2015 by Cpt.Fred Quote
DonaldSmith Posted February 14, 2015 Report Posted February 14, 2015 Sounds good to me. Oh! We also have had 35 mm film and 100 mm cigarettes. And now we can get soda/pop/coke in liters. I'm sure there are a few more exotic examples. Quote
Don Coatney Posted February 14, 2015 Report Posted February 14, 2015 A pint is still a pound the world around. Quote
Frank Elder Posted February 14, 2015 Report Posted February 14, 2015 Name a metric measure you can guide or eat.......... Quote
Don Coatney Posted February 14, 2015 Report Posted February 14, 2015 This may be sub par but I can guide a foot long grinder into my mouth 1 Quote
TodFitch Posted February 14, 2015 Report Posted February 14, 2015 A pint is still a pound the world around. Actually, no. Worked with some Brits and I mentioned that and they told me I was crazy. Turns out that the British pint, like their gallon is larger than the US version. Read once that there were a bunch of different gallon measures and apparently what we use was the old "wine gallon" while in the early 1800's England created the Imperial gallon very close to the older ale gallon. Quote
Frank Elder Posted February 15, 2015 Report Posted February 15, 2015 This may be sub par but I can guide a foot long grinder into my mouth Haha I believe a cubic meter is called a "Stere"=steer..lol. Quote
Frank Elder Posted February 15, 2015 Report Posted February 15, 2015 Fred....save us from ourselves, post something suspension! Quote
Cpt.Fred Posted February 15, 2015 Author Report Posted February 15, 2015 (edited) Here we go......again. Fred....save us from ourselves, post something suspension! hmmmm yes, i think it might be better... so, btt, folks! order in the court! i started cleaning the encrusted backing plates to have a closer look at the felt lining and metal seal, or whatever that part may be. it's riveted to the plates and i guess i won't have a chance to get those new, right? so i'll try to straighten them as good as possible and maybe try to glue new felt in there... but first i have to do more cleaning. Edited February 15, 2015 by Cpt.Fred Quote
TodFitch Posted February 15, 2015 Report Posted February 15, 2015 hmmmm yes, i think it might be better... so, btt, folks! order in the court! i started cleaning the encrusted backing plates to have a closer look at the felt lining and metal seal, or whatever that part may be. it's riveted to the plates and i guess i won't have a chnace to get those new, right? so i'll try to straighten them as good as possible and maybe try to glue new felt in there... but first i have to do more cleaning. Those small tubular brass rivets are available in most decent hardware stores in the US and they are pretty easy to set. When I did mine, I found a local industrial felt and seal company and bought a piece of, if I recall correctly, 1/4" thick felt. Cutting new seals from sheet stock and riveting them in is a pretty simple job compared to everything else you've done so far. Quote
Cpt.Fred Posted February 15, 2015 Author Report Posted February 15, 2015 (edited) Sheet stock wouldn't be a problem, that's true, but these are pretty complex in shape, its more like a cup with a spout or muzzle at the bottom? We'll see. It's just that i would have loved to just buy new ones and don't bother any longer... Plus, to be honest, i don't really get the function of these. I thought the bearing would be more or less closed with the other seal at the back of the hub, behind the inner bearings. Guess they wanted to be sure about it. Edited February 15, 2015 by Cpt.Fred Quote
Frank Elder Posted February 15, 2015 Report Posted February 15, 2015 Go old school and rivet some oiled down leather to the metal, maybe make a ring to go around the edge and sandwich the leather between the ring and the old piece. ?????? Quote
Andydodge Posted February 15, 2015 Report Posted February 15, 2015 Has anyone given any thought as to whether the type of rear axle seal that's available may be able to be used........the thickness maybe an issue, also there maybe a seal, ideally neoprene but felt or leather that has the bracket attached that be able to be riveted to the original metal bracket...........Fred......can you take the stub axle and see if the local bearing place has anything close?...........I'd be surprised if there wasn't a neoprene seal that would have an OD similar to the original felt setup...........andyd Quote
RobertKB Posted February 15, 2015 Report Posted February 15, 2015 (edited) A pint is still a pound the world around. Actually, a pint in the UK is usually more than a pound. I usuallly pay anywhere from 3 to 5 pounds for a pint of bitter. In Canada, we use dollars to pay for a pint. LOL Edited February 15, 2015 by RobertKB Quote
Andydodge Posted February 16, 2015 Report Posted February 16, 2015 Fred, I found a spare 1940 stub axle that I have and I'll check with the local bearing shop to see if they have any neoprene seal listing that's the right seal ID...........that might give you something to work with.........andyd Quote
Cpt.Fred Posted February 16, 2015 Author Report Posted February 16, 2015 thanks, andy. i'm curious what comes out. is that part riveted to the backing plate actually the counter part of the other seal on the hub? and when it is important, why doesn't anyone list it as a spare part? sorry to make such a fuss about this, but i want to be sure i understand this right. i've never seen such a setup before and i want to get the bearing sealed up tight this time. it's all about security, because this might be the reason my brakes did not work as they could have. some might think i'm slow in the head, but i don't care in this case... here are drawings of what i mean. Quote
Cpt.Fred Posted February 16, 2015 Author Report Posted February 16, 2015 (edited) It seems like i finally got it? On the rear wheel it's No. 10 - "axle oil seal outer". I really prefer the exploded view drawings... this is quite crowded and hard to see there. This is better, front wheel, but the seal is not on the list... Edited February 16, 2015 by Cpt.Fred Quote
Andydodge Posted February 16, 2015 Report Posted February 16, 2015 Fred, the front seal is shown as # 6 on both plate 49 and 50..........the previous pics of your actual 1940 front backing plates show the seal and metal parts but they look like they have been squashed........which could be why it didn't seal too well............I've just found the listing (from the 1936-42 Master Parts List) for the front wheel bearing seal and have attached the scan.......this shows what it seems to be...........3 separate parts, ie, inner, outer metal retainer and shield with the thicker brake support Dust washer sandwiched between these two metal pieces then riveted to the brake backing plate.....notice that the same part number is used 1936 to 1942.............dunno if this helps...........andyd. Quote
Andydodge Posted February 16, 2015 Report Posted February 16, 2015 When I mentioned the rear axle seal it was only as it is attached to a metal plate that is bolted onto the rear axle/brake backing plate with 5 bolts and whilst it is a leather seal for the early cars then neoprene for the later cars its a similar style of seal arrangement to the front seal mounting, ie, seal and metal retainer................and that's why I mentioned it...........I've checked the various manuals I have, 36-42 Oz, 46-54 Oz, 46-54 US, 56-62 Oz and none show a pic like that # 49..............am still gunna take the 1940 stub axle I have to the bearing shop tomorrow and see what I come up with.....................andyd Quote
Andydodge Posted February 16, 2015 Report Posted February 16, 2015 Fred......are we confusing ourselves here?............that #6 seal shown on plate 49 & 50........isn't that the INNER SEAL that is pressed INTO the brake drum and is rightfully called the INNER GREASE SEAL and spins with the brake drum?............that mangled thing shown in the 3 top pics in post 121 is the brake backing plate to stub axle DUST SEAL..........NOT the grease seal that you show in pic 4...........the dust seal whilst it should not be mangled is to keep out dust, dirt, water etc from the brake linings..........the axle grease seal keeps the grease away from the brake linings............have you thought that the reason there is maybe no replacement part in general for the dust seals is that they generally don't need replacing , unless the whole brake/stub axle is completely disassembled and/or assembled incorrectly and these parts are buggered(a good technical term)........normally only the inner grease seal would be the only part that is routinely serviced/replaced...............lol................again..............more convoluted reasoning from downunder..............lol......................any help.........or a hinderance................andyd Quote
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