1951 Chrysler Windsor Deluxe Coupe Spitfire (in need of knowledge)

[duke7427]

A little different front end.  Different grill, bumpers, rear window, hood.  It is a club coupe.  

[Vermonter]

Well I was able to peel off the glass lens without any damage to the glass itself. I think ebay has the H4 6v sealed units for $70, but I'm not sure If additional wiring will be needed or if they are a direct swap out. I guess I need to do some more reading.

 

[greg g]

If you are going to upgrade to halogen you might want to wire in a relay.  The modern Halogen bulbs are rated at higher wattage than the incandescent equivalents on both low and high beams.  You can do the ohm's law calculation to figure the extra amps, don't think it a lot more but the relays will help.  The bullseye headlamps are getting quite rare, but as you noted with care they can be disassembled and re bulbed.  Unfortunately the reason they come apart is also the reason they fail and the reflectors get perished, the adhesive leaks and allows moisture in.  But you can clean them up and may be able to get the reflective surface repaired, Maybe even that chrome powder coat would work.  Then those can be re bulbed with contemporary halogen bulbs made for European style conversions that were out in the 70/80's. I believe a couple of guys have redone them, perhaps they will chime in with the correct new style bulb type.  

 

I have one that has a blown bulb and a stone hole in the lens.  But the shell and reflector are in good shape.  Shoot me a PM if you are interested in arranging an adoption. 

 

have you attempted starting it yet?

Edited February 1, 2016 by greg g

[Frank Elder]

[Roadkingcoupe]

If you want to reuse an old reflector then you should check out Uvira. You put nickel plating on then send the reflectors to them and they put a vapor deposited aluminum layer followed by glass. This makes a good reflector that will not degrade with time.

 

Hi TodFitch,

      Just curious? In the 30's were the head light reflectors made of brass with an actual silver (AG) coating that would tarnish just like tableware?

Thanks.

Edited February 1, 2016 by Roadkingcoupe

[TodFitch]

Hi TodFitch,

      Just curious? In the 30's were the head light reflectors made of brass with an actual silver (AG) coating that would tarnish just like tableware?

Thanks.

Yes. At least that is how mine are (were before I had the vapor deposited aluminum with glass coating). And from what I've seen and read that was standard practice.

 

I think the early cars with carbide gas lights used a mirrored glass rather than stamped brass reflector but I've not looked at those closely and that is earlier than I am familiar with.

[Vermonter]

I appreciate the feedback. I know it's probably not the popular decision, but I'm not going to restore the headlights "the right way", simply because I intend on driving this car daily (as long as it continues to run). I want the upgraded light system simply for a safety factor. I figure the lens is the rare part, the headlight housing can always be sourced from another old car if someone in the future wants to rebuild these headlights. At least they will have the glass in one piece to work with. I think I may just buy the generic H4 housings and go that route. I have read about the relay wiring upgrade needed, but I was unclear about it because I'm not sure why you would need it as long as you were using 6v headlights. Obviously I need to spend some time reading up on that. Thanks for the input, guys.

 

Also- No, I have not started the car yet. It's still very much winter here and it'll be spring before I even have the motivation to do anything with it. The car is outside and it's too cold to turn wrenches. I have a guy down the road who apparently knows the engine like the back of his hand and he's very interested in hearing it run. It's good to know people. I will keep updating as I go, but don't expect much until warm weather is here.

Thanks!

[Vermonter]

I've also considered something, and please tell me if I'm wrong....

The big concern with the H4 upgrade seems to be the amount of added current that needs to pass through your original wiring and headlight switch when using a 55/60watt bulb.

With the advancements made in L.E.D. bulbs, could a 12w L.E.D. H4 bulb be used in the new H4 housing, dropping the wattage WELL below what the original system was designed to handle? And wouldn't that eliminate the need for added relays? Or is wattage not the concern? I know wattage isn't the same as ohms, voltage, current, etc...I'm no electrician and I have only basic understanding of how a 12 or 6v system works so I'm relying on input here.

Thanks!

 

 

***EDIT***

 

I found a bulb on ebay;

6v

35/35w

H4

 

Clearly states "WILL NOT OVERHEAT STOCK WIRING" in the description. 

I'm assuming the demand for updated, yet original-like lighting must have peaked enough interest in the aftermarket and they decided to make a bulb to fit those needs.

1 Bulb is $10.19 Shipped.

 

I was not looking forward to using an L.E.D. bulb, as I knew the light output would be barely better than the original headlight. I guess this sounds like a solution? What do you guys think? Use this bulb in an aftermarket H4 headlight with my bullseye lens swapped onto the housing?

 

WHAT IS THE ORIGINAL WATTAGE RATING FOR HIGH/LOW FOR THE AUTOLITE BULLSEYE HEADLIGHT?

Edited February 2, 2016 by Vermonter

[greg g]

I believe they were 30/40 So,  Watts divided by volts is 5/6.5 amps, times 2 for both bulbs, add in some resistance for connections call it 12 for low beams 15 for high.  Modern off the shelf lamps are 35 or 40/55, or higher if spec'd that way. You can do the math but you're still under 20 for both on high beam.  Easily carried by stock wiring assuming it's in good condition all the way.  But you need to factor in corrosion in the dimmer switch, in the head lamp switch in the on switch fuse holder, at the junction box connections where the feed splits to the lights, the lamp connections and the ground to the body, and the ground from the body to the frame.

[Vermonter]

Thank you.

So I'd assume the 35/35w halogen bulbs I found should be fine then? 

[Charlie Stephenson]

If you found a 5 1/2" distributer and that was 2 long,  pull the distributor and see if the oil pump is turning if it is, pull the oil pump and make sure the gear is pined to the shaft,  this is seldom the problem but one thing to check.  The gear will turn with the camshaft but the shaft may not be turning inside the gear.

[Vermonter]

I will check that. It's getting to the point where I should start having some time to dig into this project.