busycoupe Posted September 12, 2014 Report Posted September 12, 2014 All this talk of engine swaps, disc brakes, frame reinforcing hitches is fine, but you are talking about towing a trailer made in 1954. What was used to tow trailers of this type in 1954? What ever it was, it didn't have a 318 cu. inch engine with disc brakes. Perhaps the brake upgrade would be prudent for modern traffic, but I would think that your car should be capable of towing a small travel trailer at modest speeds. 1 Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 12, 2014 Report Posted September 12, 2014 busycoupe, on 12 Sept 2014 - 5:24 PM, said:All this talk of engine swaps, disc brakes, frame reinforcing hitches is fine, but you are talking about towing a trailer made in 1954. What was used to tow trailers of this type in 1954? What ever it was, it didn't have a 318 cu. inch engine with disc brakes. Perhaps the brake upgrade would be prudent for modern traffic, but I would think that your car should be capable of towing a small travel trailer at modest speeds. AGREED..however...and that is a big however...since 1954 road speeds are greatly increased..road congestion even in the more remote areas is greatly increased..add to this the impetuous driver and you got a recipe for disaster. While you the driver know the limitations of your vehicle when towing that is no guarantee that the other guy is on the same page as you..will they cut you off, will they be happy as you slowly accelerate and try to pass you only having to cut in abruptly and cut you off leaving you in a lurch and possibly heading for the ditch as they speed off in to the wild blue ...yes yes and yes..I have faith (and personal experience) in my fellow motorist to do exactly as I stated above...towing a trailer such as this with the old car is not much difference than towing a some 7000 lbs behind a modern car..typical combined weight of trailer and full size sedan... so yes...by all means consider the very fact that no one is going to give you consideration when out there with this rig.. Quote
TodFitch Posted September 12, 2014 Report Posted September 12, 2014 . . . What was used to tow trailers of this type in 1954? What ever it was, it didn't have a 318 cu. inch engine with disc brakes. . . . Maybe not a 318, but it might have had an early hemi and disc brakes: http://www.curbsideclassic.com/blog/1950-chrysler-crown-imperial-four-wheel-disc-brakes-standard-but-not-like-modern-discs/ http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/1408_chryslers_pioneering_disc_brake_system_explained/?__federated=1 Quote
DJ194950 Posted September 12, 2014 Report Posted September 12, 2014 A couple of thoughts- 1- why not load it with the approx. amount of stuff that would be in the trailer and go get it weighted. Maybe to a combined weight and just the trailer loaded. Go home unhook the trailer and put a bathroom scale under the tongue. and weigh it. Move items around to get desired tongue weight. 2-Check the diameter of your current electric brakes (9" or whatever) and wheel diameter say 14 or 15". Maybe do a search for a new axle with bigger and/or a newer style of trailer electric brake to give more trailer brake capacity, down hill stopping ability that fit you trailer wheels. You may still be slow up the hill but safer going down! 3- take the weights- loaded and tongue weight to an experienced hitch builder with that info to see what's up for Your car. PS, love old restored trailers, some worth more than some old cars now! At least here in Ca. DJ Quote
pflaming Posted September 13, 2014 Report Posted September 13, 2014 1954 Wally Byam Holiday Trailer: Length 14.5' overall, 12' body: Width 7' 3": Heigth 7' 10" : Weight fully equiped 1500 #'s. Shown in the spec sheet behind a '54 Chrysler Sedan. Wally ran travel trailer caravans, interesting read. What "fully equiped means is not stated. I suppose it would weigh more if one was headed for a bowling turnament as opposed to a fly fishing weekend. He did build the trailer for '54 five seater sedans so the American famly could enjoy the outdoors. Quote
lwebb Posted September 13, 2014 Author Report Posted September 13, 2014 Well, I am taking every comment to heart and again I really appreciate all the advice. I hope there isn’t a length limit on posts as I want to try to address each concern and see if it changes the advice given.Makes sense I guess to address each comment one at a time.“It’s not safe”. Jeff, you may certainly be right about what I’m attempting, hopefully not. But as a member of two national vintage trailer clubs, my Tahoe would be on the medium to heavy end of what folks are currently towing with. Yes certainly there are some folks with 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks but mostly folks don’t. Folks with vintage tow vehicles are certainly in the minority but for newer vehicles it’s not uncommon to see Jeep CJs and any number of 1/4 ton pickups as well as just standard cars etc. I was invited to a vintage rally last fall in Tampa. Here are just some of the combinations I remember. First amazingly enough there was a 53 Buick 4 door COMPLETELY untouched, rust everywhere that was pulling a 20’ airstream. He’s been at several rallies I’ve attended.There was another stock 55 Chev pick up pulling a 22’ airstream, 54 chev 4 door with a 17 foot Shasta and the one I couldn’t believe, there was a 41 foot Pontiac Chief (that’s a trailer) pulled by a stock 66 Buick sedan all the way from Kentucky. So hopefully if I do this right, with caution I can make it work.As to which kit I use for the bakes. I like what I read on the Rustyhope site. He seems to be extremely knowledgeable and according to an older post has sold over 400 of these kits with minimal problems.Standing behind the brakes. Well the shop I’m using does major work on vintage vehicles. While I was there there was an early model? late 40s early 50s Rolls they had pulled the engine on. There are pictures on their wall of the numerous vintage vehicles of varying age but while they do the everyday car for most of their work, they love working on vintage when they can. That being said. I just have to trust their ability. I know the guy and several other folks just swear by him. As he said, he will have to trust the stability and design of what I get from Rustyhope but he will stand behind his own work. Beyond that I don’t know if I would get anything better for a commitment. All this is a gamble I know.I agree that my stock 49 would probably pull the trailer but I’m in the for the long haul ( well at 68 maybe medium haul). I want to feel confident I’v done everything I can to beef it up where necessary to do the deed. I’m retired and have a business making parts for vintage trailer (CustomVintageTrailerParts.com) so I’ll be going to a number of vintage rallies. Interstates will certainly be part of my travels so I’d rather be closer to over kill than just getting it up to minimum.DJ I’m going to do exactly that. I’m worried I might break my bathroom scale. though. Heck bathroom scales a re cheap.Pflaming, great info, at one time I owned the only two existing Holidays anyone knew about. Just serendipity but I spent a year trying to get information on the, Started with Airstream, they didn’t have anything on it . I’ve collected a lot of info since then and had articles written about my Holidays. Because orf that people started looking and now I know of 12 out there. A lot of the information now on the Airsream site they got from me. My Holiday question is the newest of the ones made, highest serial number and has several differences. one being a rear bumper which brings the length to 15’6” . You are right, I’m thinking my “loaded” weight closer to 1700. I think the 1500 fully equipped is what they all dry weight, all the interior there but closets and cabinets empty. The original also lacked black and grey water tanks. I’ve since added them. at 8.35 pounds pr gal that alone would bring up the weight +- 140 lbs.Again I truly appreciate all your advice.Sorry for the lengthily post. Quote
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