Plywood Platform Instead Of Concrete To Work On Car

[Bingster]

In an old post I ran across, a fella said he built a plywood platform that he drove his car up onto to work on it.  I sent him a message but haven't received a reply, so I put it out there to you.

 

I'm assuming he might have used 2 X 8's as floor joists and 1" plywood for the floor.  Maybe doubled 1" plywood?

 

Concrete is pricey but it is, well, concrete.  But have any of you done the plywood route?

[Don Coatney]

This is an old Plymouth-Dodge forum. Did you Google "plywood garage floor forum"? I did and got several hits with folks much better equipped to answer your questions.

[Bingster]

Thanks, Don.

[janan5243]

Not knowing how long a ramp you're talking about, it's hard to answer. If it were a ramp just long enough to get the front or rear up, it would seem to me that a decent set of metal car ramps would suffice. For a full length ramp, the height desired would determine the lumber sizes needed. for a 12" height & a 12" width, I think a pair of 2"x12" beams with braces between them no more than 16" apart & 3/4" plywood top would hold a car. Possibly figure out where the tires will sit & put more bracing in those areas.

Edited August 8, 2014 by janan5243

[BigDaddyO]

In an old post I ran across, a fella said he built a plywood platform that he drove his car up onto to work on it.

 

Was this 'old post' here, on this forum?

Or was it on a 'Plywood Garage Floor Forum'?

[wdoland]

Here's a few. I like the one with the lights built into it.

http://corvettec3.ca/ramps.htm

[Mark D]

They look like widow-makers to me.  Far too much chance for lateral shift and catastrophic collapse. Drywall screws and 2x8's where designed for light residential construction and not to hold 4,000 lbs of steel above your head.  Invest in something safe, and sane.  Here's who I would be calling... http://www.bestbuyautoequipment.com/  (or some vendor like it)

[Bingster]

The post was on this forum that I saw.  That Corvette ramp idea seems okay but I'd make those ramps a little wider...Still, the possibility of collapse would worry me.

[bbbbbb99]

Come on Folks, there are still wooden bridges Semis occasional drive over all over this country on back roads.. Be smart and do some engineering calcs or have someone do them for you and build with wood. I think the original poster was more referring to building a replacement for a concrete slab. Can be done with 2x4 for "joists" and 3/4 inch plywood if the spacing is right on the joist IMHO. It's all about spreading out point load so that many structural members share it. I am also assuming you meant that you simply wanted to not work on dirt so my 2x4 joist will be laying flat in dirt for their full length (3.5 inch side). Off the top of my head I'd say 2x4 12 inches on center with 3/4 ply will work

Edited August 8, 2014 by bbbbbb99

[greg g]

I am giving some thought to one of these.

 

[Bingster]

Yeah, my original idea was to build a platform to at least get the car off dirt.  From there, it would have to be sturdy enough to raise up the car with some sort of jacking system.

 

So if this platform collapsed, it wouldn't be a safety issue unless I had jacked it up and was under it at the time.

 

He brings up a good point about wooden bridges - even railroad bridges out here in Iowa - albeit they have metal in their design.

 

On the other hand, I could just wait and pour concrete.

[bbbbbb99]

Yeah, my original idea was to build a platform to at least get the car off dirt.  From there, it would have to be sturdy enough to raise up the car with some sort of jacking system.

 

So if this platform collapsed, it wouldn't be a safety issue unless I had jacked it up and was under it at the time.

 

He brings up a good point about wooden bridges - even railroad bridges out here in Iowa - albeit they have metal in their design.

 

On the other hand, I could just wait and pour concrete.

I'd build my design and then make some 3/4 ply squares (2foot by 2foot) for under jacks etc. Let's be honest here, this is probably a temporary situation right?

 

Why go hog wild on materials if you don't need them?

[james curl]

I have been using plywood for a work surface in my dirt driveway for the last ten years.  I just replaced the old plywood with new treated exterior 3/4" plywood, I just lay it cross wise in the driveway  with just the dirt under it, no two by material.  I use my large floor jack on it to raise the car or my pick up to the height I want then use stands sitting on 2' x 2' square 3/4" plywood pads.  I have never encountered any problems using this method.  I have cleaned and detailed both the pick up and my 48 on this structure.  It holds up well even when pressure washing the underside of the vehicles.  I installed the engine on the 48 with a cherry picker on rolling on the plywood.   I used to work for a company that manufactured an airplane with a wooden wing and tail.  We always advertized that pound for pound wood is stronger than steel which is true.

[Bingster]

That's so simple it's brilliant!  Yeah, why use any 2 X's at all?  There's nothing to collapse that way.

[Tom Skinner]

3/4" Treated Plywood is approaching $50 a Sheet around North Carolina now, (Lots of Home Building going on now).

4 Jack Stands at Harbor Freight are $52.(with a coupon). I would opt for the Jack Stands with my Floor Jack before

I started putting 2 or 3 Pieces of 4 X 8 Plywood down anywhere. JMHO

Even the 2 ton Floor Jack is only $89 at Harbor Freight.

Thus Floor Jack with 4 Stands = $141

3 Pcs 3/4 Treated Plywood = $150

The first car is still just sitting parked on the Plywood with no elevation at $150

The second car is up on 4 Jack Stands with an additional Floor Jack placed strategical in a just in case manner.

I would feel safer under the second car with 4,000 LBS of Steel  over my carcass.

Although my wife has plenty of Life Insurance on me - so I imagine it wouldn't much matter to her either way.

LOL

[janan5243]

I also didn't realize you were talking about a wood floor to work on. I built a 12' x 24' SHED for my father-in-law when he came to live with us. The floor is treated 2 x 4's 12" on center with 5/8" OSB for a deck. My Desoto now sits on it every day with no problems. When I use jacks, I put a piece of plywood or OSB under them for added strength.

[Tim Keith]

I might use plywood for a work floor, not for long term storage.  Wood is a more comfortable work surface than concrete, but the industrial linoleum is expensive. I plan on building with used lumber.   This week local contractors used 3/4-inch plywood for concrete forms for a retaining wall.  Used plywood of this nature is generally okay and might be about $8 a sheet.  At that price use two layers with overlapping joints.  As a base rolled crushed lime mixed with some cement and sprayed with water is almost like concrete.  The crushed limestone naturally fuses together, the cement need not be a great quantity.

[bobjob55]

          I use plywood all the time ... landlord had a problem with me putting up ANY kind of permanent structure on the property ... something about it will raise property taxes ...  anyhow. ,,,,,  so I use plywood squares with my jackstands  ,,and a piece to lay on .... scorpions and RATTLE snakes are a problem ,, as well as desert sand means that I have to pick it up at nite ... now it's monsoon  season .... 

[TodFitch]

         

... now it's monsoon  season .... 

… with a 80% chance of thunderstorms in the foothills of the Catalina mountains on the south side of Pinal county tomorrow evening. Might save some more of the folk's live oak trees which have been stressed by drought.

 

Looking forward to a good old fashioned Southern Arizona thunderstorm, don't get them where I live now.

[Don Coatney]

Thunder storms are not fun. A drenching summer rainstorm sans thunder is much more fun. Have had several in the past week here in Indiana including one this morning. .