doctor dirt Posted February 12, 2014 Report Posted February 12, 2014 Checking my manual today for numbers because the housing on my distributor has a chip broken out of the housing. My mechanic tells he can fix by applying a poxy and I know it could solve any moisture starting problems but I think I'd be happier with a solid housing. I made some prelim calls and have some people searching their inventory. One question is it reasonable to think a housing can be swapper out or will I need to buy a complete distributor? I see a few on ebay but my understanding of the serials starting with a 500 sequence means "pre war" and my manual shows Auto-Lite as apposed to Chrysler Corp. Whose got the good info on a 49 Dodge Wayfarer distributor??........................or should I just poxy it up and move on to the next search? ...................glad to be back in action, the trip hasn't happened yet but I'm working towards it! Doc. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted February 12, 2014 Report Posted February 12, 2014 autolite was a name long associated with Mopar before trading to Ford in 56 for PPG Quote
P15-D24 Posted February 12, 2014 Report Posted February 12, 2014 Did you check the P15-D24 Store to see if one of the listed cores might work? Quote
desoto1939 Posted February 12, 2014 Report Posted February 12, 2014 the correct autolite dizzy for your car is IGS-4207b and the housing which is the metal unit is igs-2158 used on Chrylser 1946-48, Desoto 46-48, dodge 46-48 dodge truck 46-48 Plymouth 46-50 so if you could get one of the dizzy that fit the above cars and trucks then your mechanic could switch over the internals. my Hollander book stops at 48 rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com Quote
Don Coatney Posted February 12, 2014 Report Posted February 12, 2014 Per my book a 49 Dodge D-29 left the factory with a Auto-lite IAP-4103A-1. Centrifugal advance starts at 1 degree @ 450 RPM's and full at 11 degrees @ 1550 RPM's. Vacuum advance starts at 1 degree @ 6 inches of mercury and is full in at 8 degrees @ 14 inches of mercury. These numbers are unique to this distributor and I do not see a distributor from other years with the same advance numbers. But as I said that is straight from the book. In real life a distributor with different advance numbers could be altered to work if your mechanic is equipped to do it. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted February 12, 2014 Report Posted February 12, 2014 We must have the same book Don, I have the same data..... Quote
doctor dirt Posted February 12, 2014 Author Report Posted February 12, 2014 .......igs2158 is what I'm hoping to find. So far it looks like the entire unit needs to be purchased, we'll see. Funny how the second and third numbers for a D29 also work on the other models but the first set of serials igs4207b-1 for the d29,d33,d41 won't work on the d30,d34,d42 gets abit confussing. I'll see the fellows on Sat. morning and discuss that Don. I will check the store, thanks pd. Cars running strong, I also swapped in the correct coolant. I thought we did a a good job when I first got the car flushing it out but I notice the radiator cap is abit discolored (brownish) the coolant is a 50/50 mix and looks fine. thanx all Doc. Quote
fstfish66 Posted February 12, 2014 Report Posted February 12, 2014 Per my book a 49 Dodge D-29 left the factory with a Auto-lite IAP-4103A-1. Centrifugal advance starts at 1 degree @ 450 RPM's and full at 11 degrees @ 1550 RPM's. Vacuum advance starts at 1 degree @ 6 inches of mercury and is full in at 8 degrees @ 14 inches of mercury. These numbers are unique to this distributor and I do not see a distributor from other years with the same advance numbers. But as I said that is straight from the book. In real life a distributor with different advance numbers could be altered to work if your mechanic is equipped to do it. don do you have dizzy specs for a 1953 241 C,I red ram hemi by any chance ? or what years may cross refrence ? thanks in advance don Quote
desoto1939 Posted February 12, 2014 Report Posted February 12, 2014 don and others: I rechecked my 1938-51 Autolite catalog and here is what it is in the catalor Doge 1949 D29 IGS-4207B and also 1949 Dodge D29 (Spec. EQ) D30 IAP- 4103A hoosuing assembly gor the IGS is IGS-2158 for the IAP the housing is IAP2012 IAP housing Chr 49-50 Des 49-51, Dodge 49-51 Fargo 48-50 Ply 49-50 Dod Trk 48-50 Sorry If I mislead anyone. rich HArtung Quote
doctor dirt Posted February 13, 2014 Author Report Posted February 13, 2014 (edited) It's ok Rich the serials are in the manual and there seems to be 3 autolites that will work. I'm going to see if the tag on mine is visable on Sat morning to verify which one is on my car. I may have a housing avalible to me, just need to get more info. thanx guys, Doc. Edited February 13, 2014 by doctor dirt Quote
_shel_ny Posted February 13, 2014 Report Posted February 13, 2014 .......igs Cars running strong, I a c. "Running strong"..................................... Why mess with it? epoxy it, and drive it like you stole it. Why disturb a vehicle that is running fine by replacing a known operational part with one of unknown condition, or rebuild your known operational distributor? Quote
doctor dirt Posted February 13, 2014 Author Report Posted February 13, 2014 Theres a chunk out of the housing! When I wash the car or moisture gets in there the car won't start! The break is about an inch long at the edge and narrows down after about an inch and a half (small pc. of pie). I can epoxy it but if I can find a housing I'd rather swap it and forget it knowing its not a quick fix. If I can't find a housing then I'll epoxy it. Doc. Quote
Don Coatney Posted February 13, 2014 Report Posted February 13, 2014 WD-40 sometimes works wonders. Way back in high school I had a cracked distributor cap in an old furd and no money to buy a replacement. Every time it rained the engine would not start. I borrowed my dads can of WD-40 and coated the inside of the cap. No more starting problems for several months until I saved up enough to replace the cap. 1 Quote
Frank Elder Posted February 13, 2014 Report Posted February 13, 2014 Aqua net on the outside of the cap will do the same thing Quote
Niel Hoback Posted February 13, 2014 Report Posted February 13, 2014 Sounds like a job for duct tape. Quote
fstfish66 Posted February 14, 2014 Report Posted February 14, 2014 WD-40 sometimes works wonders. Way back in high school I had a cracked distributor cap in an old furd and no money to buy a replacement. Every time it rained the engine would not start. I borrowed my dads can of WD-40 and coated the inside of the cap. No more starting problems for several months until I saved up enough to replace the cap. WD 40 the W D stands for water dry the 40 is the 40th forumla trial that worked Quote
Don Coatney Posted February 14, 2014 Report Posted February 14, 2014 Actually it is Water Displacement 40th attempt. Quote
fstfish66 Posted February 14, 2014 Report Posted February 14, 2014 Actually it is Water Displacement 40th attempt. ok ill go with the 40th attempt,,better choice of words, i seen it on one of those modern marvel shows they called it water dry,,,either or,,, wasnt trying to be a wise guy,,just help you get the point across about the dizzy cap quick fix,,, Quote
Don Coatney Posted February 14, 2014 Report Posted February 14, 2014 I was not trying to be a wise guy either. I had never heard it called Water Dry before. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted February 14, 2014 Report Posted February 14, 2014 (edited) well by snipping a few hairs...once could easily say...you both right and both wrong....if you were to combine the answers from the two you would get the correct answer, Water Displacement, 40th formula ...either way, fix the root problem and leave the band-aid out of the mix... I'm through playing now...lol http://wd40.com/faqs/#a91 Edited February 14, 2014 by Plymouthy Adams Quote
doctor dirt Posted February 14, 2014 Author Report Posted February 14, 2014 Either way no problem, Plymouthy has aready said he'd loan me the money for the DW-40 if the housing search fails, thanx PlyMan. HA! Doc. Quote
_shel_ny Posted February 14, 2014 Report Posted February 14, 2014 Nothing wrong with a "quick fix" (something long term, short of replacement), but yes, leave the band-aid fix out unless it is just something to get you to the show, or home. After the housing swap bungs things up there is always the complete dizzy replacement Lines in the sand. 1 Quote
desoto1939 Posted February 14, 2014 Report Posted February 14, 2014 If you can get the correct replacement dizzy I would go that route first. Install the new breaker plate and cap and rotor. make sure there is no play or slot in the shaft adn replace the Vacuum control with your old one. The route of taking the old componets from your old dizzy to the new one would need to be done and you would also want to put in new bushings inthe new housing also. Just my 2 cents on input. Rich HArtung Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.