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Posted (edited)

Just spent some time with a knowledgeable auto parts person. The fitting is 7/16-20 straight thread going into the cylinder and 7/16-24 on the flare fitting side (I hope I got that right). He' s going to find out and told me I'd have to buy a box of 5-10 fittings.

 

Hank :)

Edited by HanksB3B
Posted

I went to a local hose supplier/maker in town. They were able to get me some. If you can't find some let me know and I can run there on my lunch one day and order more.

Posted

I don't recall where I bought the bender but Northern Tool has one just like it for fifteen bucks.

 

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200353976_200353976

 

FYI when Dads snap on one was started to wear out he went looking for another one. Bought one of the cheapy ones not from Northern but something along those lines. While it looked the same the clamping piece wasn't made quite as precisely as needed to hold the line well. He ended up returning it and getting another snap on unit. The cheaper brands may have been good once upon a time but I suspect you will have trouble with the new ones.

 

http://store.snapon.com/Flaring-Tool-Sets-Blue-Point-Set-Double-Flaring-Tool-P644043.aspx

Posted (edited)

Joe,

Was there a part number or description or size on your invoice? What is the phone number/name of the shop and the name of the guy that took care of you? Finally how much were they?

 

I'm thinking this is the correct part: Tube OD=1/4", 7/16"-24 is the thread that goes into the body and I'm assuming the thread of the flare nut (attached to the line) is 7/16-20) Will someone that knows please confirm ?

 

Rear_Brake_Line_to_Cylinder_Body-2_zpsf0

 

I ordered 6 (2 for you Barry) of these for Will-Call at McMaster Carr and will arrive there at about 8am with one of my original parts and a flare nut (I guess a 1/4" tube nut is 7/16-18 not 7/16-20 as I was told)

 

 

If it's not one thing, it's certainly something else isn't it?

 

Hank  :)

 

P.S. Starting to think this fitting may have been responsible for the original leak which soaked my brake shoes.

Edited by HanksB3B
Posted

Hank and Joe:

It sounds like great news in the above posts regarding the straight thread fitting. If it pans out, please count me in for at least two (at almost any price). I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

Barry

 

See revised post #154

 

It's light out..I can work on my truck...

 

Hank  :)

Posted

Hank, let us know if those are it. If they are not correct I will see if I can get some more for you guys. 

Posted

Hank, let us know if those are it. If they are not correct I will see if I can get some more for you guys. 

 

Joe,

 

We need more.

 

I struck out on the fitting today, It's too long a story but I may post some work around solutions. Somehow my new copper washers did the trick today and my brakes held pressure without leaking.

 

Hank  :mad: 

Posted

Ok, I will try and get some ordered Saturday morning if I can find my originals! How many should I buy?

Posted

Ok, I will try and get some ordered Saturday morning if I can find my originals! How many should I buy?

 

I guess 2 (or 4 if there's that many) for me.  I'd have to guess at least two for Barry ?

 

Yesterday I replaced the two copper washers with new and replaced the left "T" to Left Cylinder supply line. I used the power bleeder then ran a 5-10 lb. pressure test with the rear brake drums off. Not a drop leaked ! Today (while Davin is sleeping off his Jet Lag) I'll probably do the "tissuepaper test" at all the connections just to be sure. As much as I wanted to pick Davin up at the Airport in a Pilothouse, decided the Airport is not a good place for a test drive (duh..!)

 

I won't be bringing my truck this year but I Can't Wait to get to the BBQ,

 

Hank  :P

Posted

The real test is to hold the brake pedal down hard for 10 minutes to really check for leakage.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

The real test is to hold the brake pedal down hard for 10 minutes to really check for leakage.

 

Well it past that test, then the drive around the block test with a look see if there was any brake fluid running down the inside of the tire and then a 12 mile drive with Davin up amd down the hills of Palos Verdes. It was great to be riding in my truck but Davin in the passenger side of a left hand drive vehicle felt as if the steerring wheel and pedals were missing. On the way home, just 3/4 of a mile from home at perhaps one of the intersections in the country my truck just died. I suspect something like either the motorola resistor I recently put on the coil wire...or something like that..nothing engine and internal...almost as if someone pulled the electrical plug out. It felt really stupid to call AAA only walking distance from home, but pushing a Pilothouse during rush hour was not an option. The tow truck company assigned was supposed to show up with a flatbed. The tow truck arrived and it wasn't a flatbed. I told the guy there was no way the truck was getting dragged by it's axel and then let my New York slip out and told him he f'd up to which he took a major offense to so I back peddled a bit and told him then the dispatcher f'd up and that didn't help.

 

ron-shirley-lizard-lick-towing_zps2ef77c

 

The driver was about as big as Ron, but Ron is always more concerned about his Oakley Sunglasses so I figured he wasn't going to hit me and besides I had police protection and I haven't been in a fist fight since high school. The guy told me to have a nice day (I don't think he really meant it). A flatbed was dispatched from another company and the truck is back home.  

 

The good news is the tires are dry and the brakes are working again. Time to wake Davin up and get on the road for the BBQ.

 

 

Woo hoo! 

 

Hank :)  

Edited by HanksB3B
Posted

Absolutely awesome Hank!!!   Well except for the engine dieing.

 

It's been a long journey on your brakes for sure and I'm sure a lot of us learned something from it too..

 

 Now as to the engine dieing........That should be easy to figure out. Maybe it's just out of gas...... :rolleyes:

 

Bob

Posted

Sounds like a malfunction of that most rare of all factory options ........ electric brakes!

You sure have been having more than a fair share of problems with the old girl.

 

Funny story. Back in the mid 70's I bought an old Austin Healy 100-6 with a very ratty electrical system. In order to save money and get more reliable electrics into it I stripped every trace of the old system out and put in new  US made components and wiring. This entailed converting it over to 12V negative ground which meant a new insulated lead had to go into the distributor. It all worked very well until one cold winter night on the freeway. I was on a transition ramp between the 57 and the 55 fwy...one of my favorite spots as the sound of the dual side pipes made a lovely echo in this section of concrete...when the engine suddenly went silent. I got it over on the shoulder, got out a flashlight and started looking for the problem. Turned out the lead I had put in was  missing. Vanished. Gone? I made up a new lead and went on my way home. By the time I got home I was convinced that the lead had caught on something inside the distributor and was wrapped up below the points plate.

 

I tore into it that weekend but never found any trace of that wire. To this day I have to figure the ghost of Dr. Lucas (Aka the Doctor of Darkness) was trying to get even with me for dumping all his handiwork in favor of stuff made here. Whatever did happen I suppose I will never know but I sure remember that engine going silent. ;)

 

Jeff

Posted

Hank:

In your post #158 you note that you "struck out" on the fitting. Did it have to do with the threads per inch of the straight thread? I have since learned that the straight thread should be 7/16"x 20 and the double flare thread is 7/16"x24.

Barry

Posted

Hank:

In your post #158 you note that you "struck out" on the fitting. Did it have to do with the threads per inch of the straight thread? I have since learned that the straight thread should be 7/16"x 20 and the double flare thread is 7/16"x24.

Barry

Barry:

 

The lines would all be double flare when connecting to a junction block or connector. If using a brass adapter at the Wheel cylinder then the end from the brakeline would also be double flared and the brass adapter are you stating is a straight thread.

 

Just trying to make sure everyone understands what you are saying with straight and double flare lines.

 

Rich HArtung

Desoto1939@aol.com

Posted

Barry:

 

The lines would all be double flare when connecting to a junction block or connector. If using a brass adapter at the Wheel cylinder then the end from the brakeline would also be double flared and the brass adapter are you stating is a straight thread.

 

Just trying to make sure everyone understands what you are saying with straight and double flare lines.

 

Rich HArtung

Desoto1939@aol.com

Rich:

Correct. I didn't state it as clearly as I could have. The 7/16"x20 straight thread of the brass fitting (adapter) goes into the upper brake cylinder and seals with a copper washer, and the 7/16"x24 female end of the fitting accepts the double flare brake line from the T-block on the rear axle. Thanks for clarifying it.

Barry

Posted

I'm still trying to get to the hose shop where I got mine at. Some stuff came up Saturday morning and I haven't had free time to get over there on my lunch this week so far. I've been lucky enough to have time to even eat my food at lunch, but I'm hoping tomorrow, Thursday, or Friday I can get over there. If I can't make it during the week I WILL be able to get to the place Saturday morning. I hope I'm not holding you guys up! 

Posted

I'm still trying to get to the hose shop where I got mine at. Some stuff came up Saturday morning and I haven't had free time to get over there on my lunch this week so far. I've been lucky enough to have time to even eat my food at lunch, but I'm hoping tomorrow, Thursday, or Friday I can get over there. If I can't make it during the week I WILL be able to get to the place Saturday morning. I hope I'm not holding you guys up!

Joe:

No problem. Actually, early this morning I went to another NAPA store in my area, and they HAD the correct fitting. In addition to carrying the Gates line of fittings, they also carry what they called "the old Weatherhead" line of fittings. The fitting, which is in brass or SS, has the correct threads as noted in my post #169 above. In addition, the hex head is 11/16" rather than 9/16", thereby providing more contact with the copper washer.

For those who may be interested (including Hank when he returns from his vacation on the 14th), the fitting is Part #G49505-0404 and the cost is $6.69.

Thank you for your willingness to locate the fittings for Hank and me. Although it seems that Hank has solved his brake problem, if he still needs the fitting, I can get one or two for him. His call. Thanks again Joe.

Barry

Posted

Joe:

No problem. Actually, early this morning I went to another NAPA store in my area, and they HAD the correct fitting. In addition to carrying the Gates line of fittings, they also carry what they called "the old Weatherhead" line of fittings. The fitting, which is in brass or SS, has the correct threads as noted in my post #169 above. In addition, the hex head is 11/16" rather than 9/16", thereby providing more contact with the copper washer.

For those who may be interested (including Hank when he returns from his vacation on the 14th), the fitting is Part #G49505-0404 and the cost is $6.69.

Thank you for your willingness to locate the fittings for Hank and me. Although it seems that Hank has solved his brake problem, if he still needs the fitting, I can get one or two for him. His call. Thanks again Joe.

Barry

 

No problem Barry, it wouldn't have been anything for me to look for some. I'm glad that you found some! A lot of people on here have helped me, its the least I can do! 

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