how much noise is to much noise?

[bosworth]

Greg

That is very interesting! There was no gasket in place so I didn't look in the gasket kit for one, well looks like the transmission is coming out again!

Thanks

Bill

[Jim Yergin]

I believe the replacement gasket has a split at the bottom so that you can fit it around the input shaft without having to completely remove the transmission. Just pull the transmission back enough to fit the gasket in.

Jim Yergin

[Don Coatney]

I believe the replacement gasket has a split at the bottom so that you can fit it around the input shaft without having to completely remove the transmission. Just pull the transmission back enough to fit the gasket in.

Jim Yergin

I would think the split would be at the top of the gasket as oil has a hard time leaking uphill.

 

Also the gasket is easy to make. Use a paper grocery bag. If the transmission is removed use a small ball pien hammer to cut the gasket.

[bosworth]

I looked at the gasket kit and guesswhat, there is one, this is something like "read all instructions before proceeding". The gasket does have a split I don't know if it is bottom or top but the cut out is there for the bearing retainer and front shaft so it can only go one way. I wonder if the split is to allow any leaked oil to drain away rather than go into the bell housing. The worst part of pulling the transmission was getting the top left bolt, it would be easy if I wasn't to lazy to pull the floor board. I will see if we can sneak the gasket in without pulling the transmission all of the way.

Thanks all!

Bill

[Niel Hoback]

  The split is there to make it fast and easy to change, you don't have to remove the transmission.  Disconnect the shift rods and e-brake cable. Four mounting bolts in the bell housing, Pry the trans back about 1/2" and slide the gasket up the back of the bell over the trans bearing retainer. Line the gasket up with the four holes and put everything back the way it was.   

[bosworth]

That sounds good. I should be able to move it back enough even with the drive shaft in place. Looks like a weekend project, I ordered redline MT 85 gl4 so that will go as well. See if my neighbor talks me into replacing the needle bearings while were at it, he has more nerve about rebuilding the transmission than I probably cuz it's my car, not his!

Thanks again

Bill

[Niel Hoback]

  I had a hard time learning when to stop fixing things that aren't broke!  Sounds like you're on the edge of doing the same thing.  If your trans is quiet, don't disturb it.

[bosworth]

I thought I should report that I was able to slip the new gasket in place by just pulling the transmission back as suggested, it went quickly and easily, and yes the split was on the bottom.

But I am still plagued by what I think is excessive driveline noise. Everything is relatively quiet up to about 40 MPH or so, then it sounds like I should be shifting into 4th gear. When I get up to 50 or 55 I'm afraid she's going to come apart, at the very least I should be shifting into 5th . Only problem, I've got a three speed. I checked the numbers on the rear end and found a set of stamped numbers that are 3.9F, I assume this is the 3.9 rear end which was the standard. I really would like to figure out why the old girl is so loud, I'm pretty sure its not the engine although the sound seems to be coming from up front as opposed to the rear end. The engine, outside of a a ticking valve when she's cold is quiet and smooth. I checked her compression today and found all the cylindars to run 95 to 105 lbs. Any suggestions for a trouble shooting strategy would be appreciated.

Thanks

Bill

Edited December 17, 2013 by bosworth

[TodFitch]

. . . But I am still plagued by what I think is excessive driveline noise. Everything is relatively quiet up to about 40 MPH or so, then it sounds like I should be shifting into 4th gear. When I get up to 50 or 55 I'm afraid she's going to come apart, at the very least I should be shifting into 5th . . . I really would like to figure out why the old girl is so loud, I'm pretty sure its not the engine although the sound seems to be coming from up front as opposed to the rear end. The engine, outside of a a ticking valve when she's cold is quiet and smooth. . .

Could it be fan noise?

[Merle Coggins]

Could it be fan noise?

 

My thoughts exactly...

[bosworth]

Good thought, when I get up to 50 or so, get the noise then push in the clutch and coast, things quiet right down. You still hear a little gear noise but very minimal. I figure that with nothing under load there wouldn't be much in the way of gear noise. I tried reving the engine back up while still coasting and can't bring the noise back, it only returns when I let the clutch back out. I would imagine that if it was the fan I should be able to duplicate it by revving the engine. There is a guy in a neighboring town with a p15, I think I'll give him a call and see if I can take a ride with him to get a better idea of how the old girl should sound.

Thanks

Bill

[Don Coatney]

Could also be the differential. When driving at speed with the clutch out does the noise change under acceleration and deceleration?

[Young Ed]

Just for simple testing you should be able to remove the fan and put the bolts back in to hold the pulley. You shouldn't overheat unless you drive slowly too much.

[bosworth]

My quest to get rid of my driveline noise continues. I was convinced that the nose was coming from the transmission, and since I had most of the parts anyway I pulled it out and replaced all of the bearings and seals. Upon inspection the old bearings were a bit sloppy and some of the gear faces pitted from sitting in nasty unchanged fluid for too many years, but I now concede that the transmission wasn't the source of the worst of the noise. We took the car for a test drive of about 5 miles, transmission worked great, back on the rack to check for oil leaks, none, but found that the input end of the rear end where the pinion shaft and bearings are housed was almost to hot to touch, or at least keep your hand in place. I know this can't be rite! We had replaced the pinion shaft oil seal, still leaks, and struggled to retorque the input shaft nut to the specified 180 lbs. Our gages only go up to 150 lbs. I got to wondering, if there weren't enough shims in place behind the bearing, could I be putting all of that torque into load on the bearings? So this morning I loosened the nut about 180 degrees and took her back out for a ride. Much worse! Noise and vibration. I wondered if I'd make it back home. I drove for about 4 miles averaging about 45. Once again the casting around the pinion shaft was very hot. I guess the next step is to pull the axles and pull out the differential to see what's up. The other approach is to try to find a replacement differential.

I value your oppinions and input on this matter and what you think might be the best approach. I should add that when I got the car last year one of my first jobs was to drain and replace fluids. The rear end contained only a small amount of very thick, nasty, brown gook.

I can only imagine what its insides look like now.

I didn't find rebuilding the transmission to daunting, how bad a job is a rear end rebuild?

Thanks

Bill

Edited January 13, 2014 by bosworth

[Dodgeb4ya]

A low oil level in the rear end is a bad thing! Gears and bearings over heat and can transfer metal. You might want to pull the pumkin and take a look. Setting up a ring and pinion and bearing preload is best left to a pro for a quiet long lasting rear end.

Bob