Anchor Bolt Removal

[plymouthcranbrook]

Hello Friends and Neighbors,

                     I am in the process of replacing all 6 wheel cylinders on my 1952 Plymouth and have run into a problem removing the left front lower wheel cylinder. I have been unable to get the anchor bolt to come out of the tie rod connecting piece that fastens to the backing plate.  And by extension through the backing plate.  I am assuming that rust is the issue as I cannot turn the anchor bolt either direction.  PB Blaster and pounding on the end of the bolt(to the point that I have pretty much destroyed the castle nut) have not worked. I have not used heat as yet due to the grease and brake fluid in the area. I was wondering if there is anything else holding the wheel cylinder in place that I have missed.  It is soaking in PB blaster as of now and I will do that for a couple of days while I work on the rest of them. Any help appreciated. Thanks.

Edited August 25, 2013 by plymouthcranbrook

[pflaming]

You might get a VERY SHARP chisel a good heavy hammer and split the nut down the side of the threads. I think that nut would split quite quickly. But hit that chisel with SHARP hits, don't be gentle.

 

Good luck. 

[plymouthcranbrook]

The castle nut is off, the bolt itself will not come out of the backing plate and tie rod connector.

[DJ194950]

The castle nut is off, the bolt itself will not come out of the backing plate and tie rod connector.

 

The shaft part of the "bolt" could be frozen inside the mount point of the brake cyl. or steer arm or both. Do you have a way the heat the "bolt" quickly?  Torch w/ large tip or 2nd. choice a propane torch. heat both and try again. Try to keep heat as mush as possible of the "bolt" itself!.

 

Good luck,

 

Doug

 

Sould have said OFF the bolt !!!

Edited August 26, 2013 by DJ194950

[_shel_ny]

There should be nothing else holding it. I would go buy a couple of regular nuts to thread on, and wail on it a bit harder

[plymouthcranbrook]

The right side came off easily so I expect it is rust or more frighteningly some POR 15 got into the hole when I undercoated it about 10 years ago.  I am afraid I am going to have to change the whole backing plate.  Sigh. More fun.

[Dodgeb4ya]

A blue tip wrench takes care of this issue pretty darn fast-not a propane torch! The other way is to, as already  mentioned double nut it and use accurate strong sharp blows to it with at least a 2lb hammer. Or another way... drill a 3/8" hole 1/2 way through it started from the threaded end. Then use a big 3/8" high strength punch and pound that bastar..... out!

[plymouthcranbrook]

Yeah, since putting a pipe wrench and a long extension and standing on it and jumping up and down did no good(235 pounds of me) I expect that either filling my oxygen tank or getting out the air drill are the only options.

[plymouthcranbrook]

Filled the tank and heated the heck out of the little so and so.  Finally got it out and rust was the problem. Must have been in since 1952

[Niel Hoback]

Do you need another bolt and nut?

[plymouthcranbrook]

Yes, I do. A friend who sells used  and NOS parts is supposed to have one but I am waiting to hear back from him.  If you have a good one, I am interested.

Edited August 31, 2013 by plymouthcranbrook

[plymouthcranbrook]

And of course right after I reply that I do need one, he sends me an e-mail saying he will ship it tomorrow. I will let you know if I do need one. Thanks much for replying.

[Niel Hoback]

  No problem, I'm not going anywhere. I don't live that far from you.  46342

[squirebill]

While we're on this subject......I had this same problem with the long anchor bolt, left front of a B1B.  Didn't seem to want to budge.  Don't have an oxy/acetelene torch but do have a MAPP gas bernzamatic with swirl jet.  Tried penetrating oil and the heat on the nut and allowed the nut to come off.  Have a big heavy C clamp and by putting a 3/4" socket over the head of the bolt and straddleing the whole mess with the c clamp thought it could be "pressed" out.  No luck.  Based on the above replies, separated the tie rod end so could turn the wheel til it stopped and get a good shot at the bolt with a hammer.  3# hammer and sharp whacks got it to budge enough that I could saw off the head.  Now the tierod bracket with bolt could be taken to the vise  and rap the bolt back and forth until it came out.  All that being said, I have two questions: 1.Has anyone ever considered grinding lube grooves on these bolts and lubing them with grease before reassembly?  2. Can someone explain to me how heating the bolt better enables it to be removed?  I understand the nut would expand with heat and make it easier to get it off the bolt but don't quite get how heating/expanding the bolt makes it easier to get out.  Reading of the experiences of others tells me it no doubt works....just trying to understand how/why it works. 

[Don Coatney]

Heating the bolt does make it expand but as it cools it shrinks just enough to break the rust bond. That is my theory and I am sticking to it.

[squirebill]

Don...thanks for your theory. Based on it I realize what I was doing wrong....I was heating it and trying to move it while it was still hot, like I did with the nut.....rather than letting it cool first. Next time, I'll know. Not sure the MAPP gas torch is up to the task but can't substantiate an oxy/acy kit as a "once in a while" tool. Maybe some day.

[DJ194950]

Heating the bolt does make it expand but as it cools it shrinks just enough to break the rust bond. That is my theory and I am sticking to it.

 

I agree with Don that it does help break the rust "connection" with the expansion/contraction as pieces colls at slightly differant speeds this thickness differences.

When possible on accessable places that are not caked with old grease etc., An acetylene torch with a Large tip or even a appropiiate to part size rosebud tip is used to heat just the outter part fast with the inner part staying cooler as the heat is Quickly applied to just the outter part as best as possible with wet rags when possible applied to the inner part.

Metal expands when heated, two parts connected, heated at differant temps they expand at diff. rates-helping break the connection between the two pieces. Often still requireing some applied force!

 

When multiple parts are in this connection this can be difficult to accomplish, with the end result being just the same as heating everything. Still helps though. We used to sprays lots of penetrant on the still warm parts,(not red hot)

 

 seemed to help some, but did make a lot of smoke though, no fires!

 

Doug