1949 Busy Coupe Update

[pflaming]

". . . so I tackled some other jobs."  I'm sure everyone understands that statement. The nice thing about 'other jobs' is that all little jobs ADD UP. Too hot to work hard on my wagon, so I figured out what I am going to do with my dash to put a modern radio and amp into it, and the "beat goes on".  Super nice work. 

[falconvan]

Thanks, Paul. It always good to take a day and knock out a bunch of those little "I'll get to it later" jobs. It's been hot here, too; but it looks like we have some rain and a break in the weather coming Thursday. Still, it's been a nice mild summer compared to the 30 solid days of 100+ we had last year.

[Frank Elder]

Thanks, Paul. It always good to take a day and knock out a bunch of those little "I'll get to it later" jobs. It's been hot here, too; but it looks like we have some rain and a break in the weather coming Thursday. Still, it's been a nice mild summer compared to the 30 solid days of 100+ we had last year.

If it makes you feel any better I was doing blacktop road construction during those 30 100+ days last year.............

[falconvan]

If it makes you feel any better I was doing blacktop road construction during those 30 100+ days last year.............

Brother, that's a weight loss program I want no part of!

[Plymouthy Adams]

what don't kill you makes you stronger....

[falconvan]

I finally got the word that my flanges are done although I dont have them in hand yet. So I should be building headers next week. I do want to get the car all one color before it goes back on the road so I started on some minor bodywork today; plugging several old holes in the decklid and rockers where Im eliminating some trim and emblems that I dont have anyway. The guy that built this had a motorized deck lid lift that was pretty cool but a little bulky so I decided to go another route. I saved this auto latch from a 96 Firebird that I scrapped; it was on the rear hatch. I'm going to use a GM trunk lock for the manual release cable and the button that worked the lift for the power release.

[falconvan]

I finished up both rockers and other than a little patch on the passenger side they were solid and no surprises. It's always the same area rusts out on these old Mopars; right below the taillights and the lip below the decklid. I could see some bubling through the paint so I decided to go ahead and fix it. Even though its going to be a budget paintjob, I dont want rust coming back through right away. I sanded it all down and its like I thought; several areas with pinholes in both spots. But it's worth the extra week or two of work to know its taken care of. The rest of the car is really solid.

[falconvan]

Amazing what a few bubbles in the paint can hide. This is really ugly once I cut it open. The only way to really fix this whole area right is to pull the body off the frame but I'm not going there. You have to draw the line somewhere so I cut back the metal until I hit something solid to weld to and I'll rebuild from there. The surrounding old stuff will get cleaned up best as possible and coated with POR 15 to stop any further deterioration. Not perfect but it should last a long time. Every one of these old Mopars I've had rusts out in the same area; must be a moisture trap.

[GlennCraven]

Amazing what a few bubbles in the paint can hide. This is really ugly once I cut it open. ... Every one of these old Mopars I've had rusts out in the same area; must be a moisture trap.

 

I'm in for exactly that same mess with my '49 Windsor. Mucho rust right where everybody says it will be -- same locations as your coupe -- and I'm sure when it gets stripped and checked, the corrosion will be worse even than it looks on the surface.

 

You do great work, though, and fast. It's informative and entertaining to watch your progress.

Edited September 18, 2013 by GlennCraven

[DJ194950]

It seems sellers always like to assume that nothing big is happening under a small paint bubble. Actually more often it can be a poorly repaired rust from this area in the past and not sealed from the back side!
 Seems that the "bubble" actually holds moisture longer allowing rust to continue at a faster rate.
When I bought my 50 4 dr. Ply. I had a friend check well under the car at the rocker panels as I had to replace them tottally in my 50 wagon. Very large job! Did not want that much work again. The floor panels where passengers put their feet where shot but at least I had a clue about those repairs as I also had to do them in the wagon plus tons! more rusted panels.
 
Back to the 50 4 dr. I checked the trunk area. There was some rust in the outter edge panel/truck lid/seal area
 
showing in the trunk but seemed something not to bad.
Then the trunk lid. Small bristers on the corners and some some on the seal edge.
In the end, I needed to replace about 6" strip on each side on the seal areas and about 1" wide by 4" on the outter panel.
Small panels!!  They all show at times.
 
I suggest when buying a car when seriously interested take a small pick and push on the blistered areas gently.
If the seller declines your doing this (ask first) I'd suggest not buying except with a price based on usuable parts!

 

Doug

[falconvan]

Yeah, that's just one of the lovely nuances of dealing with 60 year old vehicles; especially when buying them on a budget and in the Midwest.

That's exactly what this was, Doug; a poorly done previous repair. Sounds like your wagon was really a handful!

[DJ194950]

The wagon was Only about a years part time sheet metal replacement fun.   
Guess that's why I was NOT going to buy the 4dr. no matter how cheap I could buy it if it was that bad, but still found more hidden than what I thought. Did I mention the expanding foam used to close up the hole in the corner of the trunk!??
 
With the amount of work you accomplish, I'd expect that your repairs may only take a day!   

 

Doug

Edited September 18, 2013 by DJ194950

[GlennCraven]

When I looked at a '63 New Yorker back in the spring during the project search, I found (pretty easily) that its quarters were filled with expanding foam. That car was as rusty as anything I saw in the last year of looking, and every repair was almost like an inside joke.

[falconvan]

A day?? That's pretty ambitious, Doug.   I think at least a few for this side. I got my flanges in so im going to jump to the headers as soon as I have this side buttoned up. Once they are done i'll pull the drivetrain back out and start tackling all the body work.

 

Glenn, sounds like you could have built one of those amphibious cars with that 61!

[falconvan]

Im rebuilding this part a piece at a time; pretty tedious but it's looking ok so far. Also, I finally got my header flanges and intake spacers back.

[JerseyHarold]

Did you remove the gas tank to weld your repairs, or take some other precaution against sparks hitting the tank?

 

The trunk-corner rusting on the '49-'52 bodies was a problem very early.  The Schott company made outside patch panels  for that area in the 1950's.  I've got a couple in storage from many years ago.  That corner in my '52 Cambridge is completely gone....the body mount is surrounded by air!

[falconvan]

Harold, my tank is dry from when I welded the mount for the Ford fuel pump and sending unit into it. That's cool that you have a patch panel for yours! It's definitely a tough area to fix.

[falconvan]

Got a few more pieces made and fitted today; should be able to get the last two pieces in tomorrow after work and this side will be done.

[falconvan]

Needs a little more finish grinding but this side is pretty much done. I was going to jump to the headers but I guess I'll bite the bullet and do the other side first.

[falconvan]

I got lucky, this side was not nearly as bad as the first side once I opened it up. I had one 5"x 5" piece of the inner brace that was gone but the rest was solid once I wire brushed it down really good. So I made a pice for that, welded it in, cleaned everything up, and hit it with POR15. The green stuff is some zinc based rust converter from Eastwood that's for spraying inside hard to reach areas like inside frames. The other side I was able to get a brush into but since I didnt remove as much metal over here, I used this stuff to get up inside the channels. Once this all dries I can button it back up with just a few small pieces of sheet metal.

[GlennCraven]

You're right. That side was much better. ... Keep up the good work and keep the pictures coming.

[falconvan]

Good day today; I got the other side buttoned up and ready for some filler and I got the passenger side header built. This one was easy; driver’s side will be a lot harder.

[GlennCraven]

More nice (and quick) work!

[falconvan]

Thanks, Glenn. Got the other side done today; not bad for my first header building attempt. Now I can pull the drivetrain back out, start smoothing my welds on the firewall, and getting it ready for paint.

[falconvan]

I got the motor pulled back out tonight and finished welding everything on the headers except the O2 bungs. Now I'm going to get the engine on a stand and stick to the body until it's ready for paint.