Hello From Germany

[SpecialK]

does anyone know how to disassemble the water pump?
why is a hole on the bottom - broken?

 

I think this is not the original for my car ...

 

[Plymouthy Adams]

pump presses together...interference fit....hole is there as a weep hole to show when internal seal is leaking..

[SpecialK]

thanks a lot

[TodFitch]

pump presses together...interference fit....hole is there as a weep hole to show when internal seal is leaking..

At least on my older pump, the hub and shaft are drilled and pinned after the hub is pressed on. If yours was done that way you'll need to remove the pin before pressing off the hub. (Actually the preceding is not quite true as the hub and pulley are one piece on my pump so it is actually the pull that is pressed on the shaft, not just the hub like later pumps.)

[Plymouthy Adams]

for sure Tod..he has stated to me in PM that there are no pins in his forward collar...

 

the only difference between a Ford small blck pump and a Sunbeam small block pump is that the forward collar pressed deeper on the shaft on the Sunbeam pump..buy a Ford pump for lower dollars..get out the press and wha-la..you be showered with sun-beams

Edited May 27, 2014 by Plymouthy Adams

[Andydodge]

Thomas, whilst that is the original type or style of pump for your car I don't think its the actual original pump as the one shown has a complete circle impeller with multiple vanes on the inside whereas the original pumps only had a pair of vanes either side of the impeller, the one you have is I think a much later, matbe mid 50's version or even later still...........personally unless you can get a rebuild kit very cheaply I'd just as soon as get a complete new pump.........although thinking about this as you are in Germany complete new pumps might be hard to find and expensive but a kit maybe cheaper re postage also............I like the new chassis tho'............andyd     

[SpecialK]

the disassembly of the water pump has failed.
maybe someone has some tips?

Also i must remove the Chain case cover to replace the seal.
How can i release the crankshaft starting jaw?
 

[Plymouthy Adams]

if I read this right..that is just the big nut and by translation I assume has the ears to allow for use of crank handle...find a good socket, 6 point is best...

 

read your book on install...tightening the cover bolts is ONLY AFTER the hub is inserted and allows for the cover to float for self centering..then tighten..

[SpecialK]

Installing i have found in the book, but no release.
I don't know how to release the big nut - when i twist the nut, the whole engine will twist. how can i hold the engine?

(sorry for my bad english)

[Plymouthy Adams]

often in gear..wheels chocked...e-brake on...and use an impact wrench...else you may be able to fix a special flywheel lock to engage the gears and secure to the engine block..(similar to a VW boxer set up)

[SpecialK]

engine out of car, no flywheel on engine

ohoh...

So I need to think of something

[Plymouthy Adams]

bolt a large flat stock across the rear at the crank shaft...use these long ears as out riggers to stabilize the engine while you lug on the damper/pulley nut

[SpecialK]

ok, thanks i will try it

[Jerry Roberts]

If you don't have an impact wrench , you can hit the wrench with a hammer . 

[Andydodge]

Thomas.......is the gearbox & handbrake still attached to the engine?........if so try and use a large screwdriver wedged across the handbrake/driveshaft  flange studs....... for the nut on the front of the crank pulley I had to get a 3/4" drive socket to get one big enough.......I wedged a piece of timber between the pulley and the front of the frame which jambed into the pulley against the frame & allowed it to undo........then I had to use a made up puller to remove the pulley........in the car it was a fun job.........lol.........btw MAKE SURE YOU NOTE EXACTLY WHERE EACH TIMING COVER BOLT COMES FROM AS MOST GO INTO A WATER JACKET AND MUST HAVE THREAD SEALING GASKET GOO ON EACH BOLT THREAD OTHERWISE IT WILL LEAK............I made up a piece of cardboard with the timing cover bolt holes and as each was removed it was inserted into the cardboard.........regards..andyd  

[SpecialK]

hi folks,
the nut is removed with the impact wrench.
it was much easier than I thought

[Joe Flanagan]

I was going to say, if it were me, I would go straight to the impact wrench. Glad to hear you figured it out. Don't forget what Tim mentioned about leaving the timing chain cover a little loose until you've got everything centered, etc. 

[SpecialK]

Hey guys,
i have removed the crankshaft pulley.
Looks this like normal wear?
Is there a chance to get it tight?

 

 

 

[Don Coatney]

Google speedy sleeve. You need one.

[Joe Flanagan]

A speedy sleeve will slip right over the worn area and basically give you a new surface. You use Loctite to hold it in place, which is a kind of glue here in the USA. I don't know if it goes by the same name in Germany. They have red and green, with green being the stronger glue. I believe that is what you would use. Here's a link:

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=speedi+sleeve&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=vAmPU5CwAvTHsATbpYHwBA&sqi=2&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg&biw=1280&bih=709

Edited June 4, 2014 by Joe Flanagan

[DonaldSmith]

The speedy sleeve instructions have something about an epoxy to fill the deep grooves.  The epoxy is applied inside the sleeve and the sleeve is installed before the epoxy sets up.

[james curl]

It is best to fill the grove with a metal based epoxy, sand it flush with the crankshaft after it has cured before adding the speedy sleeve.  The speedy sleeves are very thin and if the grove is deep the new seal will force the speedy sleeve into the old grove in time.  This is a tip from the latest edition of Street Rodder magazine.

[40desoto]

Does anyone happen to have a part number or the exact measurement in order to purchase a speedy sleeve online?  Or are they all unique according to the measurement each  crankshaft pulley? 

Mine is just a tad bit grooved and I rather be safe and correct while the engine is on a stand.

[_shel_ny]

Does anyone happen to have a part number or the exact measurement in order to purchase a speedy sleeve online?  Or are they all unique according to the measurement each  crankshaft pulley? 

Mine is just a tad bit grooved and I rather be safe and correct while the engine is on a stand.

 

 Here is one thread about the sleeves. There are more.

 

 

http://p15-d24.com/topic/33377-pinion-seal/?hl=%2Bspeedy+%2Bsleeve

[Andydodge]

I just went and found the box that the speedy sleeve I used on the 1941 Plymouth crank hub came in.......it has 3 brand names on it.......main one is "National Wheel End Components", then it has BOTH "MOOG" and "Federal Mogul" names........however the part number is #99218 and underneath that number it states "2.186 - 2.192 Shaft"...these numbers are printed on the top flap of the box.......my understanding is that all 23" engines which is what this fitted have the exact same crank hub diameter......this has "Made in USA" also and a date, 5/08 on the inside top lid flap........hope this helps............andyd