Correct Plumbing For Heater Installation?

[Jeff Balazs]

Hi Guys;

I am adding a heater with fresh air option to my 52 B-3-C and have a question regarding the plumbing set up for the heater. I have installed a cable operated single action (not Y) valve in the port on the head but am not certain which port to use on the water pump.

It is the later internal bypass type and has one port on the top of the housing and another on the lower section of the passenger side of the pump housing. I want to install a manual shut off valve in one of these ports.....preferably the port on top.......but am unsure if that location will work correctly. Any insight here will be appreciated.

Thanks, Jeff

[ggdad1951]

Im in vegas right now but look at FEF pictures and you should be able to see how I plumbed

[Young Ed]

You should use the one on top of the head to look more period correct. Why are you installing a second shut off valve?

[Jeff Balazs]

Hi Ed;

My plan was to use the cable operated one on top of the head as the heater control. I wanted a manual valve at the water pump to be able to isolate the system if there was a leak in the heater circuit.

Jeff

[Merle Coggins]

Either port on the water pump will work. It just depends on which hose routing works best. I have mine going into the top port.

As Ed said, you only need one shut off valve on the head to stop coolant flow through the heater. But if you are worried about it leaking than another valve certainly wouldn't hurt.

 

This type of shut-off valve in the top port of the water pump would work good.

[Jeff Balazs]

Merle;

Thank you. That goes along with what I was thinking. My tendency would be to install that same type of valve there.....as a "just in case" precaution. Much easier to have it and only use it once in a while......than to be stuck on the side of the road wishing it were there.

Jeff

[Merle Coggins]

Another option would be to carry a pair of these under the seat, to pinch off the hose in an emergency.

[HanksB3B]

^^^Good one Merle^^^  (Aren't you glad you asked for help Jeff?)  I'm almost certain I've seen a Instructions with illustrations for the Factory Heater.

 

Hank 

 

 ..it's got to be ..."somewhere on the Internet".... 

[Don Coatney]

I used a plain ole ball valve. Not original but it works well. I keep it closed most of the time as Tennessee winters are not normally severe.

 

[Charles Furman]

In the event of a leak in your heater core, just remove one of the heater hoses completely and loop the other one back to the block or water pump.  This by-passes the heater all together and you're on your way. All you need is a screw driver or clamp tool depending on how you have them attached.  Besides, to fix the leaky heater core you will have to do this any way.

[Jeff Balazs]

Thanks Guy's;

Jeff

 

Merle;    I wish I had a pair of those on a fishing trip I was on about 25 years ago. Would have made the 50 plus mile run back in a heck of a lot more pleasant.

[Scruffy49]

The 218 in my 49 had a standpipe in the head, aluminum and brass shut off valve on the top of the water pump. The 230 donor engine has the shut off on the head fitting, just a pipe elbow in the water pump. Probably combine the 2 since I like the look of the water pump mounted shut off valve. And it appears to be correct for the application, fits the top of the pump perfectly. Off the engine for polishing and fitting to a new pump, the old pump had a terminal failure (dropped it and it cracked).