ggdad1951 Posted August 9, 2023 Author Report Posted August 9, 2023 While waiting to get more work done on the new shed, I have time to work on some stuff on TODD. So, the rears were removed, cleaned up and I POR15'd the exposed work where I knew it'd be hard to get to for coverage from the door access panel area. 2 Quote
ggdad1951 Posted September 29, 2023 Author Report Posted September 29, 2023 Some parts back from the plater: rear door inner handle vents valve cover 3 Quote
ggdad1951 Posted December 4, 2023 Author Report Posted December 4, 2023 Rear door skins made and power block holes put in for rear door. 4 Quote
John-T-53 Posted December 4, 2023 Report Posted December 4, 2023 Interesting door contact idea... what's the reasoning for the contacts vs. conduit w/wiring? I guess the only downside is inoperable windows unless the door is closed, which isn't an issue really. The contacts are a lot cleaner. Maybe I just answered my q.... Quote
ggdad1951 Posted December 5, 2023 Author Report Posted December 5, 2023 17 hours ago, John-T-53 said: Interesting door contact idea... what's the reasoning for the contacts vs. conduit w/wiring? I guess the only downside is inoperable windows unless the door is closed, which isn't an issue really. The contacts are a lot cleaner. Maybe I just answered my q.... Yah, basically you don't have to worry about a wire bundle when the door opens and closes. Even in modern cars you get that bulky bundle. And yah, no power while open, but who opens/closes a windo with the door open (not me at least) and the power locks being disengaged also makes it less likely to lock the keys in. Quote
ggdad1951 Posted December 6, 2023 Author Report Posted December 6, 2023 Rebuilt the door check arm area on both doors: replaced the broken/missing keeper section and re-enforced the area with another plate of steel. Cleaned up the rear doors and prepped for skin addition. 1 Quote
ggdad1951 Posted December 29, 2023 Author Report Posted December 29, 2023 Building out big gaps on seams 1 Quote
DJ194950 Posted December 30, 2023 Report Posted December 30, 2023 Do not over do closing up the gaps. Leave room for high build primer to be used and paints build up whether single stage or two stage. Looking good!! DJ 1 Quote
ggdad1951 Posted January 2 Author Report Posted January 2 On 12/30/2023 at 3:35 PM, DJ194950 said: Do not over do closing up the gaps. Leave room for high build primer to be used and paints build up whether single stage or two stage. Looking good!! DJ 3/16" is the goal, that's what my paint guy wants....easy to grind away more if he needs more space Quote
ggdad1951 Posted January 2 Author Report Posted January 2 Fender rivet repair. Turned down 3/8" carriage bolts. 3 Quote
Lingle Posted January 3 Report Posted January 3 Love seeing the fender repair. Im currently doing the front cab corners with parts from DCM, I will post photos later this week or early next week but was thinking how to do the fender repiar and boom! ggdad to the rescue! Quote
Dave72dt Posted January 3 Report Posted January 3 3 hours ago, Lingle said: Love seeing the fender repair. Im currently doing the front cab corners with parts from DCM, I will post photos later this week or early next week but was thinking how to do the fender repiar and boom! ggdad to the rescue! There needs to be a backing plate between the fender metal and the bracket the "rivets" hold on or the rivets will stress crack the fender. That's why the repaired area is larger than the bracket. It rusts around the backing plate edges. Quote
ggdad1951 Posted January 3 Author Report Posted January 3 7 hours ago, Dave72dt said: There needs to be a backing plate between the fender metal and the bracket the "rivets" hold on or the rivets will stress crack the fender. That's why the repaired area is larger than the bracket. It rusts around the backing plate edges. This is the backer plate Quote
Dave72dt Posted January 4 Report Posted January 4 The backing plates on mine were spot welded to the fender metal. On a really rusty fender those plates may not be noticed and just considered part of the rust buildup. Quote
ggdad1951 Posted January 4 Author Report Posted January 4 9 hours ago, Dave72dt said: The backing plates on mine were spot welded to the fender metal. On a really rusty fender those plates may not be noticed and just considered part of the rust buildup. ...paint still to come my friend...as well as seam sealer to keep water out.... Quote
John-T-53 Posted January 5 Report Posted January 5 I found this video intriguing - he uses what I think is a TIG welding setup and welds it continuously without stopping all around. Less heat than MIG? Quote
Dave72dt Posted January 5 Report Posted January 5 It's a softer weld than MIG which lets it be planished more easily, stretching the area to remove the shrinkage caused by welding. I don't know how much heat difference there is. I've never done TIG. It is a smaller weld and maybe a smaller heat affected zone as well which would affect shrinkage. You'll notice a very small heat affected zone on his tacks, smaller than a MIG tack and a lot of them. I think there would have been a lot more shrinkage warp with the long run of welding if it wasn't for all the tacks. JMO, I'm not a pro welder by any means. Quote
ggdad1951 Posted January 6 Author Report Posted January 6 From what I've been told TIG puts more heat in but is softer. Meanwhile, under dash panel bucks made and panels hammer and dollied out. Next step power hammer a ridge in and trim up. Will hold the AC vents, AC control and radio. 2 Quote
ggdad1951 Posted January 11 Author Report Posted January 11 Added some metal to stop the interior door handles being lifted to lock the doors w/o a way to regain entry. Quote
ggdad1951 Posted January 12 Author Report Posted January 12 Under dash panels edge power hammered. Time to strighten and such before putting in holes and mounting brackets. 2 Quote
John-T-53 Posted January 15 Report Posted January 15 (edited) I see the high is still below zero today in your neighborhood.....Up to what temp can you achieve in your shop right now sir? Edited January 15 by John-T-53 Quote
ggdad1951 Posted January 15 Author Report Posted January 15 Shop is a nice 60°F as it is all winter. In floor heat is nice. Meanwhile on this chilly unforseen day off ( now get MLK off) I got the driver side panel mounted and started to get the passenger side going. I made 2 of everything so when I get around to PUMA I can just copy and paste TODD. Quote
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