Powerhouse Posted February 22, 2013 Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 Hello all, I have searched quite a bit for the p# for the 218 connecting rod. I came up with a supplier but he says they are 230. Can anyone show me where I can provide him with documentation that it is 218. The p# I have is 617925, am i wrong? I also have 1115901 for odd cylinders and 1115902 for even cylinders. Were they stamped with both numbers? Thanks much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted February 22, 2013 Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 The 218 rod part# 617925 has a 7.937" c to c measurement. The 230 is slightly shorter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted February 22, 2013 Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 230 rod c to c is 7.8125 (7 13/16) 218 is as stated by Dodgeb4ya with fractional size of 7 15/16 in case you using a rule and not a caliper etc.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerhouse Posted February 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 Thanks. What differentiated the odd cylinders from the even cylinders? Didn't they have casting numbers & part numbers? 1115901 and 1115902 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james curl Posted February 22, 2013 Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 (edited) On the short engines the rods are off set from the cylinder bores. If you aline then on the pin holes on an appropriate size dowel rod in the order that they came out of the engine you will see what I an talking about. The big ends will be forward on one and aft on two and continue on in this manner, if they are put on parallel you will see that the oil squirt hole is on opposite sides due to the off set. That is the reason for the difference in rod part numbers so that you will not try to put a even numbered rod in an odd numbered hole because the oil hole will now squirt at the non cam side of the engine. Edited February 22, 2013 by james curl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P15-D24 Posted February 22, 2013 Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 Pretty sure while they have different part numbers the forge number is the same on odd and even. As James pointed out using the oil hole to align the same way and then viewing the big end your will see the differences. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerhouse Posted February 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 thanks. I am waiting for a call back from the vendor. I found this on VPW but for 230CI: For short 23" block 230CI:casting #954376 Fits # 1,3,5 cylinders (7 13/16” ctr to ctr) 230casting #954408 Fits #2,4,6 cylinders (7 13/16” ctr to ctr) 230For longer block 230CI:casting #2128951 Fits ALL cylinders (7 13/16” ctr to ctr) 230 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerhouse Posted February 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 (edited) made this up for reference. that is with the bushing still installed in rod eye end...but no bearing. Edited February 22, 2013 by Powerhouse 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerhouse Posted February 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 just found this in a mopar part# interchange pdf. http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&safe=active&autocomplete=off&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=5&ved=0CEYQFjAE&url=http%3A%2F%2Fmoparcarparts.com%2Finstructions%2F50to65_Mopar_Parts_Interchange_Manual.pdf&ei=VAQoUbWIEK_8iQLNhYDACg&usg=AFQjCNFUf9mHNrOc6GUyuAtjOCxHmnOWtg&bvm=bv.42768644,d.cGE 2128951 7.95230 - Dodge '49-59/Dodge Tr '57-66/Plymouth late '54-59 1115901/2 7.95218 - Plymouth '49-early '54/Dodge Tr '48-54 Dodge Tr '54-56 230 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerhouse Posted February 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 (edited) well, they were the shorter ones according to the vendor. And have no other part numbers on them, not even cylinder numbers??? I give up. I thought they would have cylinder numbers stamped even for the early 230s since they are not even spaced. Looks like i'm outa luck on those remans. Edited February 23, 2013 by Powerhouse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P15-D24 Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 The forge number is not the part number on the rod. What is the forge number on the rods you have? Hollanders Interchange manual has that info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerhouse Posted February 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 (edited) I have to take them out to see. I plan this weekend to take the rods out of my other engine that is on a wooden stand. I was planning on putting nice new reconditioned rods in my car's engine so I'd have as little down time as possible. The car is my only transportation right now. The rods that were in question have the forge number...but nothing else according to the vender. Edited February 23, 2013 by Powerhouse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerhouse Posted February 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 (edited) OK. I got the rods and stuff out of my old engine and found that the pistons are .060, I guess that block is pretty much maxed out. This block is from an early 54 dodge truck....not a 230. But SO close...dangit. rod cast numbers: all = 954371, part numbers only the same on 2,5,6. 1 - 12446 2 - 13424 3 - 13502 4 - 13530 5 - 13424 6 - 13424 Pisotn looked way different than the others I have. I am guessing it is a truck piston? P# 1000 conformatic? Edited February 23, 2013 by Powerhouse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james curl Posted February 24, 2013 Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 Because you can never be sure about the rod part numbers, I always number the rods from front to back as I take them out and put the number on the cam side of the rod and cap at the parting line. You just have to line up the numbers rod to cap to get the caps on correctly every time and not ever mix them up by accident. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruffy49 Posted February 24, 2013 Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 .060 is only about 1/2 used up, if that. These old flatties aren't like modern sissy thin wall V8s. Kanter used to carry much larger overbore sizes but I haven't looked at them for years... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james curl Posted February 24, 2013 Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 Jim Terrell at Terrell Machine told me that it was safe at +.100 overbore. He had a set of +.080 pistons in stock when I bought my .040 pistons from him and he tried to get me to take them instead of the +.040 pistons. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted February 24, 2013 Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 James..like you I would have gone for just what it took to clean the bore and save all the metal for future repairs/rebuilds..the small amount of displacement gain is not enough to justify the max bore.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertKB Posted February 25, 2013 Report Share Posted February 25, 2013 (edited) Because you can never be sure about the rod part numbers, I always number the rods from front to back as I take them out and put the number on the cam side of the rod and cap at the parting line. You just have to line up the numbers rod to cap to get the caps on correctly every time and not ever mix them up by accident. Great advice! James..like you I would have gone for just what it took to clean the bore and save all the metal for future repairs/rebuilds..the small amount of displacement gain is not enough to justify the max bore.. Totally agree! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Powerhouse, keep going as you will get everything sorted out with the help of the guys on this forum! Edited February 25, 2013 by RobertKB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted February 25, 2013 Report Share Posted February 25, 2013 Most every multicylinder engine I have ever disassembled has the rods and bearing caps marked for position as pictured below. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerhouse Posted February 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 (edited) Thanks all for the great info. I didn't realize we could/should go over .060 bore. I ordered the rods anyway so we will see what they are when I get them. The vendor was VERY nice and said I can return them if they don't work out. If they are 230s I may keep them for a future 230 build with that 54 Dodge truck 218 block I have. I already have a nice milled head for it, I accidentally milled a later style head for the early block. It didn't cost me to mill it since I did it at work thanks to my boss. Seems like these things are getting harder to find. I guess they aren't anything the masses are looking for though. Edited February 27, 2013 by Powerhouse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlcad55 Posted April 11, 2013 Report Share Posted April 11, 2013 Hi I can see for a 230 engine the 1,3,5 connecting rod is 954376 and 2,4,6 is 954377 casting number. I take out my connecting rod of a 54 Dodge truck and all connecting rod are 954408. Could you help me Thanks Carl (from France) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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