photos and projects for my 1.5-ton

[wallytoo]

i added a pair of rear lights to my truck, in order to be able to have the directionals, brakelights, and running lights all function. the sig-stat 700 only has 5 wires, and won't work with a single, dual filament bulb for taillights to get all three functions.

the way i set it up, i have four lights, two per side. one per side is set up for running lights/brake lights and the other for running lights/directionals. you could probably have it work in any combination (ie, brake lights in all four, and running lights and turn signals in two) except all three functions in a single bulb.

you won't be able to do the wiring the way merle describes above, unless you only have brake lights and directionals with no running lights.

[Looznutz]

Thank you for the info now I have to go and get the switch and experiment.

[wallytoo]

some more "work" for the truck, although not particularly taxing.

Edited March 30, 2013 by wallytoo

[wallytoo]

a few more:

[JBNeal]

if my PBS education serves me correctly, I reckon y'all are tapping some maple trees for some goodies?

[wallytoo]

yes

[Scruffy49]

Hey, that's a pretty good idea, setting your bear baits up in the bed of the truck...

[countrytravler]

Going to replace the wood on our 45 foot flat trailer. Looking to coat it with the same stuf that they coat the pick up trucks beds with. Traction and protection and a few colers ti chose from. Nice looking truck. Getting ready to put this one to use. 1939 Dodge 1 1/2 ton aux trans with 2 speed rears.

[Young Ed]

Truck has the special low mounted headlights. Some states required them to be lower to meet some standard. Also appears to have 1940 or aftermarket lights instead of the bulb and reflector type.

[wallytoo]

some pics from a journey earlier this month. the primary mission was to collect free horse manure for the garden. ended up doing three trips, for a total of about 20 yards of manure. no pics of the load, but each was moderately heavy, probably in the ton range.

round trip was just over 60 miles, so i put on about 180 miles in the two days. we'd had some ice/snow, so the roads were salty. good thing i'd just undercoated it with oil.

pretty soon it'll be time to go get some more cordwood, to start in on next year's supply.

Edited November 29, 2013 by wallytoo

[wallytoo]

a few pictures of my truck on a job late last year, and some pics of the rear springs & auxilliary springs. last pic is of the optional added sill plate (one on each side).

 

 

 

[Mikec4193]

Hi Wallytoo

 

I have tried to spray motor oil up under my daily driver pickup truck but darn it...I cant seem to get anything that thick to spray out onto the underside (with a hand held generic spray bottle)...I ended up using WD-40 which doesn't not really hang on that tough...it helps but motor oil would work way better...

 

So what do you use to spray motor oil on the underside of your truck chassis???

 

Just wondering out loud again....

 

MikeC

 

 

[wallytoo]

oh, for the oil undercoating, i apply used gear oil from my jeep differentials.  i use an old wagner power painter sprayer to do it, and it works pretty well.  have to fuss with the sprayer settings a bit, but i can get it to lay the oil on pretty evenly.

[Todd B]

Wally, what size truck?

[Dodgeb4ya]

"Fluid Film" is fast and easy for coating anything.

[wallytoo]

Wally, what size truck?

todd,

 

it's nominally a 1.5-ton.  152" wheel base.  rated at 14,500 lbs.

 

wally

Edited February 26, 2015 by wallytoo

[wallytoo]

another photo of the truck sitting on a log landing, after completion of the job.

 

i've put about 700 miles on the truck in the last 3 weeks.

 

it was some cold this morning for late march, too.  about 8*, but it started right up.

Edited March 24, 2015 by wallytoo

[wallytoo]

spent a few hours adjusting the valves.  i noticed over the last week that at least one had become a bit noisy.

 

takes more time getting to the valves than it does to adjust them.  remove the fresh air intake hose, remove the 9 bolts securing the inner fender, slide inner panel up enough to reach valve covers, and then adjust valves.  i first checked them all cold, and found two that were tight.  then, started the truck and warmed it up.

 

i'd never attempted to adjust the valves with it running, but it was surpisingly easy to do.  the valves for #4 and #5 are the most difficult, because they are somewhat behind the exhaust pipe.  other than that, once warm, i only had to adjust one exhaust valve, and it needed to be loosened a bit.