drum specs @ ammco questions

[p24-1953]

I have recived the amaco tool from desoto1939 and couldnt wait to get started... so after everyone else went to sleep I pulled the front hubs and this is what I found. The front pads on both sides are about 1/8" thick, and both drums measure out to .45 over. Do either of those numbers seem out of line, so much that they would cause the pedal to go to within a 1" of the floor?

Another question about use of the guage. I took the measurement of .45 and split it in half. I then set the dial to .22 (the best i could) and placed it on the wheel setting the shoes so they just barely missed the guide. When i place the drums back on they were so tight i could barely get them on. I had to back both shoes off a little to get them back on. Did i do something wrong?

So after doing the front the pedal is now still low, but it is higher than it was before, If the increase in pedal height is the same after i get the rears done then it will stop about 2.5" from the floor. (is this about right?)

I will also rebleed everything to makesure that there was no air in the lines. I did find out that the front shoe on drivers side was off about 1/8" on both major adjustments.

Edited November 2, 2012 by p24-1953

[Niel Hoback]

I don't know if you did anything wrong, but, here's what I did. After I set the gauge to just barely touch the each show at both ends, I turned the minor adjustment all the way in. The drums slid on without touching the shoes anywhere. Last, I readjusted the minor cams until I could feel them touch the drum. This is because the shoes were not arced to fit the drums, and a little high in the middle, although they were within a few thousandths. The pedal was a little low for comfort, so I adjusted them again to a very slight drag. The pedal height is good, more importantly, the brakes are all even.

Since I did this, the shoes have worn to the size of the drums and do not drag while still having a high pedal.

Your drums seem rather worn at .45 and new shoes will not fit exactly right until they are arced. Either by machine or by good driving down the road with occasional adjustment.

[desoto1939]

If I remember correctly I think 60 over is the max so you still have some room left.

Adjust all the brakes to get the drums on then perform the minor adjustment. Then push the pedal to set the shoes. Also then check the brake fluid level in the MC. refill if it needs some fluid.

You should have a good pedal.

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

[Dodgeb4ya]

I am glad people are talking about shoe arc and drum relationship. The 1750 used on drums and machine arched shoes that are matched to each drum makes the 1750 work like a champ real fast and easy to attain that high hard pedal. If you Don't get the shoes arched to fit each drum diameter you most likely will still fight the 1750 using it on your car depending on drum diameter and lining curvatures.

Bob

[JerseyHarold]

One more thing to look at if you still have a low pedal is the wheel cylinder links that push the shoes. Some have deeper slots than others causing greater piston travel giving a lower pedal.

[p24-1953]

Since I drove the car for a week or so after getting the drums turned wouldn't the shoes be arced to the drums?

[Plymouthy Adams]

if shoe wore that fast ...brake jobs would be at minimum bi-annual event

[desoto1939]

Not sure about your vehicle, but the tolerance should be about the same. My manual calls for a final adjustment clearance of .006" drum to shoe.

With that in mind, after having centered the shoe up and down with the 1750, Niel's suggestion sounds very good.

.006" is not very big, and the important thing is the centering of the shoe for maximum shoe/drum contact over the length of the shoe.

You need to do all 4 drums to specs to get the pedal, and the brakes to work as they should.

Is .060" wear a total diameter wear???? meaning you can only take .030" off???

The .060 should off the entire drum if I remember correctly not each side if then each side it would then .120 off the etire drum. Also in the old days when alot was taken off the drum they would shim the lining when they were using riveted linings. Also remember these old cars do not stop like our modern cars with disk brakes and also power brakes. So always adjust your braking to be a little bit longer in braking distance.

Rich HArtung

desoto1939@aol.com

[p24-1953]

update. Today i managed to pull both rear drums and found that the rear driver drum was again .45 over and i had 1/8" on the shoes. then i pulled the rear passangers ide and might have found my problem. the drum only measures .3 over but there are basicly no shoes left. I think the brake shop forgot to pull one drum. They must have started to work on it and then got side tracked or something because both major and minor adjustments were all the way in. so the shoe (or what was left of it )was about 1/4" from the drum. below is the better of the two shoes.

so now to find a local shop that will bond new pads to the old shoes...

[Young Ed]

so now to find a local shop that will bond new pads to the old shoes...

If you cant find a local shop my local one does mail order. www.brakeplace.com