project update photos

[DollyDodge]

Here are a couple pictures of Dolly Dodge and some of my work lately. One shows the acoustic material for the headliner (I got the headliner in last weekend - photos to follow in a day or two- I went with the Quiet Ride option), the tranny repainted (with new seal and gaskets), and the bell housing repainted. I was at the machine shop yesterday. He found a crank for $175, much better than what I came up with.

[Jeff Balazs]

Wow! Are you painting Dolly? or did you just do the interior?

Jeff

[DollyDodge]

The paint on the interior of the truck is in great shape, just the outside is rusty. I decided to paint all the components I pulled with the engine, so that will all looks nice when the engine gets done. I also did the frame from the front to the back of the cab and the underside of the cab with POR 15 products. I wish I could do a better job, but I think what I am doing will help her last longer and maybe someday in the future, she can get a full blown restoration. In any event she will look pretty good compared to what I started with.

[DollyDodge]

here is a photo of the headliner in place, but not painted yet. I wanted to see how hard it was to put in place before it was painted. It wasn't too bad to get in, but lining it up took some work. It sure is nice looking though. I just can't believe what a difference it makes in the looks of the truck.

[Dave72dt]

How far does the front part of the headliner tuck between roof panel and upper windshield. I've got a chopped roof so the roof is longer so if there's a bunch of excess that slides in, like 2", it would sure save a lot of work on my part.

[DollyDodge]

Dave, the headliner fits into a short groove that is located about the front window. There really isn't a lot of excess front material. It is a tight fit both front and rear. I don't know if tha helps or not. The headliner is really cut to fit pretty much perfectly.

[Dave72dt]

Thanks, If not a lot of excess, I'm on my own. I expected that. It's a long ways into the future before i have to get excited about it.

The work you're doing sure does look good. Keep it coming.

[Jeff Balazs]

The paint on the interior of the truck is in great shape, just the outside is rusty. I decided to paint all the components I pulled with the engine, so that will all looks nice when the engine gets done. I also did the frame from the front to the back of the cab and the underside of the cab with POR 15 products. I wish I could do a better job, but I think what I am doing will help her last longer and maybe someday in the future, she can get a full blown restoration. In any event she will look pretty good compared to what I started with.

Ok......I am sure you already know this ....... but the patina your truck has is amazing. Genuine character like that just can't be duplicated. I wish...I wish....I wish.

Jeff

[DollyDodge]

Jeff, the patina to me looks just like rust:) I wish I could stop the rust where it is now and protect the metal, but there just doesn't seem to be a way. So a paint job is in Dolly's future somewhere, though probably way down the road.

[Guest bewillie]

clear coat

[Jeff Balazs]

Jeff, the patina to me looks just like rust:) I wish I could stop the rust where it is now and protect the metal, but there just doesn't seem to be a way. So a paint job is in Dolly's future somewhere, though probably way down the road.

Yes I can imagine how you might feel that way. What looks great to me...... may not be as easy on your eyes. I think it is sort of one of those grass is always greener things too. I really like it though......has a ton of character. And it looks like it belongs to the country it lives in.

I have been trying to come up with a finish scheme for my truck......and it has been a real struggle. What I know is that I don't want it to look new and shiny. I know I don't want flawless body work either. I don't mind a few dents and scrapes....in fact I think that it is totally appropriate for a 60 year old truck to show some signs of wear and tear. Who or what goes through that much time without some scar's?

I also know I don't really care for the rat rod primer look either. Or most of the artificial looking patina paint jobs I have seen. The few that I have come across that looked interesting seem as though they are probably twice as much work as a normal paint job. I am really having a tough time determining how to proceed with this. It doesn't help that I don't have much experience with auto paint....or that much money either.

Jeff

[DollyDodge]

I understand the money issue. I saw an artificial patina done on one of the cable truck shows in a professional paint shop. It looked gorgeous but as you said, tons of work, tons of money.

I have asked around and clear coat over rust just isn't an option. All the paint folks tell me it won't last. I also talked to the people at POR15 about their clear POR15 product, they say without a topcoat thier product will protect the metal but won't stay clear when exposed to UV rays. So I don't know what to do either. I like old Dolly's look, but more important to me, is preserving her, and rust on metal isn't a good thing.

Anyway the old trucks are fun.

[Jeff Balazs]

I hear you. Rust is an insidious thing. I wonder if you could apply a satin wax over it as it is? Seems to be if you could keep it from "growing" it would be OK for a long time. I do know you don't want it to get out of control.

I am just about done getting my entire truck down to bare metal. It has been quite a job with the limited experience and tools I have. What little original paint I found under all the primer seems to have been laid on directly to the bare metal. At least I could see no evidence of primer under it.

At this point I think I am going to paint it myself. :eek:

Probably a 50's type tan. The local auto paint supplier can tint the primer to match the topcoat which I think may be the way to go for someone with my limited skills. If it comes out looking like an old work truck.....I will be happy.

Keep up the great work on Dolly. Can't wait to see another adventure video.

Jeff

[HanksB3B]

Yes I can imagine how you might feel that way. What looks great to me...... may not be as easy on your eyes. I think it is sort of one of those grass is always greener things too. I really like it though......has a ton of character. And it looks like it belongs to the country it lives in.

I have been trying to come up with a finish scheme for my truck......and it has been a real struggle. What I know is that I don't want it to look new and shiny. I know I don't want flawless body work either. I don't mind a few dents and scrapes....in fact I think that it is totally appropriate for a 60 year old truck to show some signs of wear and tear. Who or what goes through that much time without some scar's?

I also know I don't really care for the rat rod primer look either. Or most of the artificial looking patina paint jobs I have seen. The few that I have come across that looked interesting seem as though they are probably twice as much work as a normal paint job. I am really having a tough time determining how to proceed with this. It doesn't help that I don't have much experience with auto paint....or that much money either.

Jeff

How about this: Clear Coat over raw steel. This Ford won the truck trophy due to the overwhelming fascination of the crowd. The owner said her body shop told her it would only last at most a couple of years before it started to deteriorate.

There's nothing wrong with painting your truck by yourself in fact (wish I could find the thread) but there was someone that used paint that was around $100/gal (happened to be powder blue) that they applied themselves and I thought it turned out looking great. It might even have been Rustoleum.

Hank

[John-T-53]

...snip...I have asked around and clear coat over rust just isn't an option. All the paint folks tell me it won't last. I also talked to the people at POR15 about their clear POR15 product, they say without a topcoat thier product will protect the metal but won't stay clear when exposed to UV rays. So I don't know what to do either. I like old Dolly's look, but more important to me, is preserving her, and rust on metal isn't a good thing.

Anyway the old trucks are fun.

Over there in the high desert climate, you shouldn't have to worry about your truck melting away anytime soon with its current patina. However you can focus on treating and preserving the areas you can't see - body seams, drip rails, inside doors, and any nooks and crannies where water can sit - especially if dirt can accumulate as well. Even on a truck with a nice paint job these areas still are prone to decay and failure.

Edited October 19, 2012 by John-T-53

[Jeff Balazs]

How about this: Clear Coat over raw steel. This Ford won the truck trophy due to the overwhelming fascination of the crowd. The owner said her body shop told her it would only last at most a couple of years before it started to deteriorate.

There's nothing wrong with painting your truck by yourself in fact (wish I could find the thread) but there was someone that used paint that was around $100/gal (happened to be powder blue) that they applied themselves and I thought it turned out looking great. It might even have been Rustoleum.

Hank

Hi Hank;

Not sure I like the bare steel look much either. Maybe if it were stainless?

The only thing that could be wrong with painting it yourself is if you put a whole lot of effort into it........and then hate it when it is done. A big part of me just want's this aspect of the build to be over with. Maybe I will just buy an assortment of rattle cans and turn it over to the local taggers for a few days.

Jeff

[pflaming]

I wanted to clear coat my patina, but I have five different surfaces: shiny metal, bondo, hardcore rust, the original deep blue, and a cheap light blue repaint job.

I showed this to a very respected auto detailer in town. He also said clear would NOT stick to some areas. His recommendation was to rub it down with automatic tranny fluid. That will give it a nice shine, will protect against further rusting, and will not be an issue later if someone wanted to give it a paint job.

I did that to my tail gate, left it out all winter and it still shines and all the bare metal areas are still nice and clean. So that is what I am going to do.

I'm waiting for my back to heal which is coming along very nicely.

[MBF]

I shot my 1 ton w Rustoleum about 7-8 years ago, maybe longer. It was in primer for a few years, but the problem with that is anytime you touched it you left fingerprints. My paint was by no means perfect, but after buffing and some regular waxing it still looks good, but it isn't a show quality job. The truck sits in a garage, and rarely sees the rain. I understand that by adding a hardener to the Rustoleum you can improve the quality and durability of the paint job. I may try that with the '50 2.5 ton that I bought this summer. A few battle scars give these trucks a good look. I did see Graybeards roller painted 1/2 ton in Macungie a few years ago, that was a labor intensive, but really nice looking paint job. He documented his story in an old discussion thread. Mike

[Plymouthy Adams]

I sprayed a little over 3 quarts of Rustoleum high gloss black yesterday..and as I have been doing for over 20+years I add hardener to it..any good grade acrylic enamal hardener will work and use 8 parts paint to 1 part harndener..for genric hardener Evercoat sells a small 4 oz can of their product at a good price. Available at most body supply places and goes by the name "Wet Look". The use of the Rustoleum and hardener however will require a good grade of enamal reducer and not the recommended mineral spirits. I also add fisheye eliminator for enamals with excellent results..this grade of reducer and the hardener will speed the cure time of Rustoleum also..the paint was dry to the touch in a short time compared to straight paint and mineral spirits. Shine is enhanced. For the overall performace, look, protection and cost it is a very hard to beat paint for items such as chassis parts, undersides of panels and the like. Yesterday's job was a large 6 compartment dog box that my neighbors owns and carries his bird dogs around in..the expanded metal cage doors causes for a bit of paint waste but again, for 9 bucks a quart or about 28.00 a gallon...you can knock the can over and still not be too angry except for the mess you now have to clean up..

[HanksB3B]

I sprayed a little over 3 quarts of Rustoleum high gloss black yesterday..and as I have been doing for over 20+years I add hardener to it..any good grade acrylic enamal hardener will work and use 8 parts paint to 1 part harndener..for genric hardener Evercoat sells a small 4 oz can of their product at a good price. Available at most body supply places and goes by the name "Wet Look". The use of the Rustoleum and hardener however will require a good grade of enamal reducer and not the recommended mineral spirits. I also add fisheye eliminator for enamals with excellent results..this grade of reducer and the hardener will speed the cure time of Rustoleum also..the paint was dry to the touch in a short time compared to straight paint and mineral spirits. Shine is enhanced. For the overall performace, look, protection and cost it is a very hard to beat paint for items such as chassis parts, undersides of panels and the like. Yesterday's job was a large 6 compartment dog box that my neighbors owns and carries his bird dogs around in..the expanded metal cage doors causes for a bit of paint waste but again, for 9 bucks a quart or about 28.00 a gallon...you can knock the can over and still not be too angry except for the mess you now have to clean up..

There you go!

What I'd do if I wanted what you want...sort of a nostalgic look, not pricy ($28.00 a gallon), + thinners * hardware...dents o.k.

Hank

[Plymouthy Adams]

I really don't think you read the entry at all..or maybe i don't catch your drift....it was an tip for those who like the product and wish to add the hardener and have never done so in the past...and once again..one the most high ene shops for quarter million dollar Italian cars likes the stuff also...speaks volumes to me...

[HanksB3B]

So what are you saying that it's o.k. to paint Ferrarri underpanels with rustoleum but you wouldn't use it on the outside?

Hank

[Plymouthy Adams]

Hank..that is not what I am saying and to those that want to use it as an outer finish the more power to them..and the ratio I posted for hardener works exceeding well.. ..and now I know what you are saying, yes I use the Rustoleum where it suits my purpose but I do have my favorite top coat enamels I have been using for 20+ years and the main reason for its use it the faster dry to touch over the Rustoleum...I do not have a professional paint booth though my paint booth does work very well..faster the dry to touch the fewer nibs likely to be in the finish..shorter time to a finished product...

[HanksB3B]

Tim,

I'm a big fan of Rustoleum and although I've only used it for frame, under-panels bracketry and components I've also never taken it to the level of using additives to achieve faster drying times, eliminate birdseye and achieve a higher gloss. I think that's all good.

I'm sure that it would be appreciated by many if you would share your experience about "favorite top coats" and the like. I know you don't have to have a professional spray booth to achieve good results, A makeshift 2x2 and plastic booth with a wetted down concrete floor can get results. But like Jeff said he feels like he's stealing Paul's thread so that's all I have to say. (at least here, at least for now)

Jeff's new thread: http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=34280

Hank

[Doghouse]

Hank "There's nothing wrong with painting your truck by yourself in fact (wish I could find the thread) but there was someone that used paint that was around $100/gal (happened to be powder blue) that they applied themselves and I thought it turned out looking great. It might even have been Rustoleum."

Was this the truck you were thjinking of? I painted it with Tremclad (rustoleum). About $30 a gallon. Painted it in pieces. First time I ever painted a truck while trying to make it look good. Its ok in the pictures or from 10 feet away.

Tom