A slant six in a 41 plymouth ?

[Tim Keith]

you've described, you might as well buy your own.

I got a flyer from Harbor Freight that listed a "shop crane" for about $110.

I like the slant six but I'd recommend finding a flathead. The slant six is a little longer than the 25-inch flathead motor. You might need to use an electric fan. There are different oil pan sumps, if that is a problem. There have been many successful slant six swaps into these cars. The slant six will best work in any rear drive Chrysler car/pickup from 1960 to the 1980s.

[Ricky Luke]

Hi Eddie

MM Oil is good, but if you have a stuck valve like my dad's 29 Plymouth had, the oil may not work. Take the side covers off and try and get some oil on the valve stems. Take the head off and give everything a gentle tap with a wooden or brass mallet after the oil has had a week to soak in. A valve spring compressor for side valve engines will also help you pick a stuck valve.

Cheers

Rick

[Ester Eddie]

Thanks Ricky

[Ester Eddie]

: if it were me i'd just pour some

joel over in oklahoma i remember right got a 35-6-7 plymouth that was sitting in the weeds for decades ..got the engine to run..he made a thread too with a video...it was a sight:cool: have fun,benny

Can you post a link to the thread ?

[Ester Eddie]

I got these with the Flathead.:D

[moparbenny]

http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=22690 I could have sworn that he posted a youtube or video of it running?..but i found the tread at least..he has a couple more threads about his car that you can find if you search statistics ,"threads". anyway hope this helps,benny

[Rusty O'Toole]

I've seen worse looking engines rebuilt. If the block is not cracked or the rod sticking thru the block they can be rebuilt in most cases. You will have to see if you can free up either engine, or take the head off and inspect.

I know a guy not far from here who got a 318 V8 from the mid sixties that had been sitting with no carb on it in a junkyard for years. He had to dunk the block and heads in a plastic garbage can and give it the electrolysis treatment to get the valves and pistons free but everything came apart and he is rebuilding it now.

The electrolysis treatment involves a solution of water and washing soda, a battery charger and some bits of scrap iron (besides the parts you want to derust). You can look it up online.

[Tim Keith]

MM Oil is good, but if you have a stuck valve like my dad's 29 Plymouth had, the oil may not work.

A few years ago Machinist's Workshop magazine conducted a test of various popular penetrating oils. None of the popular commercial brands worked as well as something that you can mix up cheaper. What worked best was a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone. The experiment electro-chemically rusted bolts in a controlled environment, then broke the bolts loose with a torque wrench.

I think electrolysis would break loose the aluminum pistons by eating them away, but it won't harm the cast iron or steel.

***Penetrating oil ...... Average load***

**None ....................... 516 pounds**

**WD-40 ................... 238 pounds**

**PB Blaster .............. 214 pounds**

**Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds**

**Kano Kroil ............. 106 pounds**

**ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds**

http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/47279-Penetrating-Oil

[grassfiddler]

Do a youtube search on "molasses rust removeal". Believe it or not there are some guys mixing up a solution of farm grade molasses bought at the local feed store, with water and soaking there rusty car parts to remove the rust. There was one guy who did it just as an experiment on an old crank pully that had a bunch of rust on it. After soaking for a couples of weeks he pulled it out of the solution washed it off and it looked amazing. He talked at the beginning about a guy who soaked a whole engine that was froze up and was able get it unstuck.

[Plymouthy Adams]

molasses if very good for putting a nice black protective finish on nuts and bolts..similar look to parkerizing...I guess if you got a couple weeks to wit it is a good process..I use the phosphoric acid and watch it disssolve rust in front of my eyes..

[Don Coatney]

Whats slower than molasses?

Slightly thicker molasses.

A family of moles had been hibernating all winter. One beautiful spring morning, they woke up. The father mole stuck his head out of the hole and looked around. "Mother Mole!" He called back down the hole. "Come up here! I smell honey, fresh made honey!"

The mother mole ran up and squeezed in next to him. "That's not honey, that's maple syrup! I smell maple syrup!"

The baby mole, still down in the hole, was sulking. "I can't smell anything down here but molasses...."

[littlemo]

Sorry Don, but that was very BAD !!! Cass, alias littlemo...

[Andydodge]

So, Don..........you want an encouragement award?.......lol............thanks mate, made me laugh, a good way to start the day.........andyd.

[Ester Eddie]

ha

[karl head]

Whats slower than molasses?

Slightly thicker molasses.

A family of moles had been hibernating all winter. One beautiful spring morning, they woke up. The father mole stuck his head out of the hole and looked around. "Mother Mole!" He called back down the hole. "Come up here! I smell honey, fresh made honey!"

The mother mole ran up and squeezed in next to him. "That's not honey, that's maple syrup! I smell maple syrup!"

The baby mole, still down in the hole, was sulking. "I can't smell anything down here but molasses...."

Sad yes but it's funny! lol

[Niel Hoback]

Why is that funny, the little guy is just stating a fact? Duhhhh, they're coming to take me away, ha ha, their coming to take me away.

[Ester Eddie]

Well with winter behind me and the snow starting to melt I hope to start taking that motor apart to see whats going on .I appreciate all the advice you guys have given me.I'll update with photos when I do start taking it apart.

[knuckleharley]

Well The Plymouth has a flathead 6 in it but it is seized .I planned on starting most of the work in the spring time.I don't have a garage yet.I may just wait and keep an eye out for a Flathead that will work in it.I wonder what other cars that slant six will work in easier ?

Why not unstick the engine already in it,and see if it's any good? My experience with old cars is that damn near all of them still ran good when they were parked,and people just parked them because they bought newer and nicer cars to drive.

 

Follow my instructions posted earlier today about the steps to take to unstick a engine. If you can't get it to turn after following my instructions and "bumping" the starter with the plugs out,remove the side plate and head,and close all the valves. Some may be stuck,so you will have to use a brass or plastic hammer to tap (notice I wrote "tap",not "beat them into submission".) the valves closed after backing off the adjusting nuts. Once all the valves are closed you can put the head back on and then fill each cylinder with DOT 3 brake fluid. Use a "valve hold open device" sold by NAPA stores everywhere,and hook up one cylinder at a time to a air compressor pumping 125 psi or so of air pressure,and sit by and take a break until you hear "glub,glub,glub" noises coming from the oil pan. Taking the oil filler cap off helps to hear the noise you are listening for.

 

IMMEDIATELY refill that cylinder with WD-40 and repeat with the air pressure. You do this for two reasons. One is the brake fluid causes rust and you want to flush it away from the rings and cylinder walls,and the other is to lube up the old rings and the cylinder.

 

Then move on to the next cylinder in line and repeat. Repeat until you have done all 6 cylinders,and you should be able to get the engine to spin by putting a battery in place and "bumping" the starter.

 

If this doesn't work for you you have something like a broken rod or crank jamming things up. I've used this to free up and start engines that have been sitting for 30+ years.

 

BTW,you don't need a big expensive commercial grade air-compressor. A roll around 30 gallon Sears 110 volt compressor is plenty good. You can probably even get by with using one of those little 6 gallon "pancake" compressors that people use with nailguns. You aren't trying to run a 1 inch impact gun,you are just trying to build up 100+ lbs of air pressure.

 

More IS better though,so if you have access to a air compressor that will pump up 175 psi and hold it,go for it!

Edited April 28, 2013 by knuckleharley

[knuckleharley]

Yikes! I don't want to discourage you,but that looks like a awful ambitious rebuild project for a guy with no garage and no tools that has never done this before.

 

My best serious advise is to keep the car and make plans on using it as a donor/parts car while you look around for one more complete and solid. You can learn lots of stuff just by freeing up the engine to get it running,and then when you find a 41 in better condition,you can use this engine and transmission in it. Not to menion all the brake parts,hood,etc,etc,etc.

 

Try to find one with a complete and solid body with all or most of the trim on it. Cutting out rust and replacing it with patch panels and buying used chrome items to get rechromed can be obscenely expensive. You will save a lot of money in the long run by starting with a better car.

 

Plus you will still have this one around to practice of if you think you might want to learn to do body work.. That way you can figure out what you are doing before you have to do it any body work to the newer car.

[Ester Eddie]

Lol Thanks knuckleharley for all the great advice and pointers .I will still try to clean up the engine and get it "unstuck" .I will be spending alot more time trying to get the 49 Windsor going .which is all there just waiting on the guys at the shop to finish the starter I dropped off there  months ago.

[fstfish66]

interesting topic,,, good luck with the motor,,,