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grassfiddler

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About grassfiddler

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    Junior Member, just joined the forum !
  • Birthday October 14

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Portland, TN
  • Interests
    Bluegrass and Classic Country Music, Woodworking and Fiddle Repair.

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  1. Thanks everyone for the replies. I'm going to order a truck pump and give it a try.
  2. Thanks everyone for the replies. I'm going to order a truck pump and give it a try.
  3. Fuel lines can be remade or bent if need be but my biggest concern with using the truck pump is the pump arm. It looks different than the car pump and I wasn't sure if it would work with the internals of the engine the same. If it does then I thought I would take a chance on one. I think there may be enough room for a truck pump to fit.
  4. Fuel lines can be remade or bent if need be but my biggest concern with using the truck pump is the pump arm. It looks different than the car pump and I wasn't sure if it would work with the internals of the engine the same. If it does then I thought I would take a chance on one. I think there may be enough room for a truck pump to fit.
  5. The fuel pump on my 52 Coronet is in need of replacement. I am going to rebuild the one on the car but I would like to replace it for now. A pump like the one on my car is pretty pricey but I see truck pumps for less than $50. So my question is, will a truck pump work on our cars?
  6. I haven't been able to get under the car to check out the issue, but hopefully this weekend I'll be able to get it tore down. I'll report back what it is just in case someone else needs to know for there car. After I get this issue fixed I need to pull the oil pan and fix the main seal and replace the pan gasket. Wish me luck.
  7. Just came in from the garage. Armed with a starting place from Don Coatney, Greg G, and my neighbors help and knowledge, I jacked the car up to get both rear wheels off the ground. I tried to move the drive shaft by hand and even got forceful with it but found no free play. I then spun each wheel by hand to see if there was an issue with the rear end. Each wheel turned freely in both directions but I noticed that the drive shaft wasn't always turning when the wheels turned. So I think this eliminated these things as the problem. Next I started up the car to see if the clunking or binding was happening without any weight on the rear wheels. Forward was fine but the clunking continued in reverse. So with some discussion of the parking brake we theorized that it could be a loose lining or broke return spring. So I barley applied the parking brake, put the car in reverse and the clunking sound and the binding went away! So it looks like I'll be tearing the parking brake a part. I'll post back as I get into this project to let everyone know what it was. Thanks for everyone's help.
  8. What is the best way to do this?
  9. I have a 52 Dodge Coronet with the gyromatic transmission. Everything was working well till about two weeks ago when I went to back the car out of the garage. As I was backing out of the garage I heard some loud clunking sounds and the car wanted to stop sunddenly. The car didn't make the sound or the stopping/lurching action if I drove in reverse fast, until the car started to slow down the clunking would come back. The car would go forward just fine and would shift like it is supposed to while going forward. I just went out the garage to drive forwards and backwards to see if I could figure out the problem. As stated above it would make a clunking sound while going in reverse slowly and it would lurch and stop like I was hitting the brakes. It would start out like this but if I hit the gas pedal it would clear up until the car slowed down when the clunking would return. It would do it if I had the clutch pushed in or not, and or if I was using the brakes. I shut the car off, put the car in neutral, got out and tried and tried pushing the car by hand. Going forward was no issue but it would barely move while trying to push it backwards. At first I thought it was an issue with the reverse gear but I'm not so sure because when the car gets moving it goes just fine. I have been driving the car like this and it runs out great. It's something while in reverse that is makeing this sound. Also the brakes seem to be working good and the parking brake seems to be working right but I haven't ruled out an issue in those two places. So I don't know if it's in the clutch, the rear end, etc..... Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
  10. I have a 52 Dodge Coronet with the gyromatic transmission. Everything was working well till about two weeks ago when I went to back the car out of the garage. As I was backing out of the garage I heard some loud clunking sounds and the car wanted to stop sunddenly. The car didn't make the sound or the stopping action if I drove in reverse quickly until the car started to slow down. The car would go forward just fine and would shift like it is supposed to.
  11. I have this type of transmission in my 52 Dodge. I'm no expert on these but there are a couple of things to check. The fluid in the tranny is seperate from the fluid drive coupling. That's the first place I would check. Pull the access cover which should be located on the passengers side floor board on the tranny hump. When you pull the cover you will see the solenoid, governor, and the interuptor switch, as well as the plugs for the oil. Fill or replace the oil. It takes SAE 10W or SAE20W if you can't find 10W. Also there is a member on here that has told me that modern SAE 5W-20 works well in his tranny. You'll need 3 pints according to my manuel. If that doens't clear up your issue, then next I would go to the chrysler imperial website and find the repair section on our type transmissions. It explains how to test each solenoid, governor and the interuptor switch. There is also some great repair vidoes from Chrysler on youtube. These were videos that were sent out to the repair shops back in the 40's. They walk you through step by step in what to check and are very easy to follow. Also, if you don't have a repair manuel I suggest buying one. Reprints can be found on ebay for around $30. They too will tell you how to trouble shoot the tranny and all it's parts. Some of the possibilities it could be are, low oil, governor points are failing to open, excessive engine idling speed, direct speed rail piston sticking in cylinder, loose shifter fork lock screw, damaged direct speed blocker ring....... You can check the solenoid by simply turning your key to the on position and placing a metal object such as a screw driver to the solenoid. If the solenoid is working it will become magnatized and will attract the screw driver. The contact points in the governor could be going bad. Remove the 4 screws and top plate. The points are attched to the top plate. Inspect, if they need cleaning use a silver cleaner. Do not use sand paper or a file. It will ruin them! What I learned with my tranny is that I had the engine idle speed up to high. There were a couple of things causing that on my car. The first was in my carb adjustment, the second was in my carb to gas pedal linkage, it was sticking a little, and the third was in the pedal itself. After cleaning and readjusting I was able to get the RPM's back to the 450 to 475 the book calls for. If the RPMs are to high it makes the electronics think that you are still accelerating and it won't upshift when needed. Also I found, when in high range, that if I let the car shift around 15 to 20 MPH's that I get a smoother shift. When above 20 it shifts much harder. I would also check the kick down at the carb just to be sure the connections are good as well as checking the resistor and breaker up by the air breather. These M6 transsmissions are pretty common in Chryslers, Desotos, Dodges, and some times Plymouths. They have a variety of names like "tip-toe shift" and "gyro-matic". They are all the same tranny. There are however a couple of minor differnences in wiring of the electronics and location of the interuptor switch. So just be aware of that when comparing and buying replacement parts from differnt year models. For the most part every part is the same across the board and will interchange from make, model, and year. So any repair manuel from any of the various "Chrysler" products will tell you the same repair and trouble shooting info as well.
  12. Thanks for letting me know. I was curious to know if there was an alternative to SAE 10W. I actually have some 5W-20 here at the house. My wifes Saturn uses that same weight. I like knowing the "alternatives" that work in these old cars as some of the things we need to keep them running are starting to get scarce.
  13. Thanks to everyone who replied! Today I decided to call O'Rielly's one more time. This time I talked to someone differnt. When I told her what I was looking for, she said," yeah I think we have that, let me check." About a minute later she came back and said that she has 7 quarts on hand. Someone else in town with an older car needed some so they ordered a bunch for him and there were a few quarts left over. Every store I called didn't have it or could get it. So it's lesson learned, it's all in who you get on the phone, there knowledge, and how willing they are to help you. So thanks to all of you and Barbra at the store I am now one step closer to having the car on the road for the summer! Can't wait to get it out on the road.
  14. Thanks for the replys. I had called Napa, Carquest, O'Riellys, Advanced, and Autozone. Nobody has it or can get it. Could also be that people I was dealing with don't really know much about such oil because it's not common anymore. I haven't checked Tractor Supply yet. I was there yesterday to buy a 6 volt battery and didn't think about checking to see if they had 10W. I'll look for it the next time I'm there. I'll also check out the link from greg g. I noticed wayfarerstranger said to use the universal tractor hydraulic fluid. My question is, are we talking about using it in the tranny, fluid drive, or both???
  15. After 18 months of dreaming and looking at the old Dodge in the drive way, I have finally been able to get it road worthy. It's no longer yard art but a functioning, driving automobile. It now even sports a brand new state of Tennesse license plate on it's tail end. There is however one last thing for me to do to it to enjoy it for the summer and that's to change out the fluids. The tranny is the M6 "gyromatic". My shop manuel is calling for 10W oil. My delema is that every where I call they not only do not carry 10W nor can they get it. So I'm now asking the help of those who may know. Where can I find 10W???? And is there an alternative lubricant that I could use??? Please enlighten me on any info you all may have on lubricants as I am willing to learn. The car is running and shifting really well so I don't want to compromise any of the hard work I have put into the car. Thanks for any info you all can bring my way.
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