karl head
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Everything posted by karl head
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Thanks guys for all the Ideas and support a member here on the site was kind enough to send me one.
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I think I would call that eye candy......I could look at it all day.....nice nice nice should I say more
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From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Jump to: navigation, search The volute of a centrifugal pump is the casing that receives the fluid being pumped by the impeller, slowing down the fluid's rate of flow. A volute is a curved funnel that increases in area as it approaches the discharge port.[1] The volute converts kinetic energy into pressure by reducing speed while increasing pressure, helping to balance the hydraulic pressure on the shaft of the pump. [2] The name "volute" is inspired by the resemblance of this kind of casing to the scroll-like part near the top of an ionic order column in classical architecture, called a volute. What I was speaking of is the area that looks like a small triangle in the lower right in the pictures.
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Thanks gentlemen for the help
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That's intriguing because it looks like the bypass hole on both pumps is partially obstructed by the volute.
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Thanks for taking the time to post the pictures and its good to see someone has a good camera Don , I was hoping for a internal view I wanted to see how the bypass is plumbed on the inside of the pump.
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That's great news Bob good luck and continued health
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That would be kind of you, if its not to much trouble.
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Thanks Merle I had read it previously and remembered it. I was wondering if you had a picture of the internals of the Internal pump. I am thinking it must be a different design.
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First of all I will say I am sorry about the picture quality. I hope this helps clear up the question of whether a external pump can be switched simply by switching the back cover or as I did drilling a hole for the internal bypass. The answer from my experience is no when I drilled the hole in the back plate using a new gasket as a template the hole did not line up with cavity in the pump .in fact part to the volute blocks the hole. # 1 shows the back cover with internal hole drilled in it. #2 shows the blockage with the help of a wire nut. # 3 shows the section of the volute with the nut in place, I cannot see how you could remove material here without weakening the pump.
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I just finished moving the pointer on my cover it went very easy and I simply had to move it outward about .5 of an inch now at least the scale on the pulley will be of use.
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Or are the Mopar gods frowning on us in general. I was pulling my carb apart for a cleaning and rebuilding and managed to break the clip/spring that holds the float in place. having just bought a kit I figured no problem well wouldn't you know it NO SPRING. anyone know a source.
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That's the same style pulley that's on my engine. I am cleaning up my other timing case cover and will try to move the pointer if all goes well I shall have a match set .
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Many of the British cars used lever action shocks into the seventies I believe, MG Triumph
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Thanks gentlemen for the refresher and the professional quality of your responses.It is a testament to the dept of knowledge and experience on this site and also to the willingness and helpfulness of its members.
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It was the first thing I checked both valves are closed and I can spin both lifters easily. As for the valves them selves they looked almost new. what I am wondering is if they had been replace by previous owner and not lapped properly. I will do a compression leak down test to be sure its closing correctly and of course adjust the valve clearances when I get her running. Might have to invest in a better camera or better eyes I used to be able to take good pictures...lol
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So what ya think. # 1 is the one at the back of the picture Karl
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Again thanks to everyone for tuning in, My only concern now is wither the exhaust valve is sitting proud. I went back through my pics and it appears that this valve is sitting a little high. it is however opening and closing fine I will do a leak down test just to make sure.
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Sad yes but it's funny! lol
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Hi Fernando I noticed in picture 5 that the exhaust valve is open on #2 cyl and #1 is at close to TDC this is the same position as mine. if you look at the picture you just see it at the top of picture. thanks for the info and the pics Karl
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As promised I checked today, mostly to satisfy my own mind, I had forgotten that I put the head on just after taking the picture so I took off the side cover and checked the valve position with regard TDC. both valves are in the fully closed position so I am pretty sure I got it right I looked at the picture myself a dozen time and I will agree that it appears like the valve is open,but its just my shaky hand or poor photo skills. Thanks for all the input its was well received and I will do my best to keep everyone apprised to my progress. Karl
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I did consider using the old washers off my 218, however the rod cap didn't have a recess for the washer and when I disassemble this engine it did not have any washers. I did chase all the threads and measured all the bolts for stretch so I am hoping it will be okay. I don't recall ever using or seeing lock washers on a connecting rod bolt on any other engine I have worked on. Thanks Karl
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I will check tomorrow just to make sure. However I am pretty sure its just a shadow I rolled it over quite a few times watching the valves. Karl
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I was away for the weekend and just saw your comment. I find it hard to agree as I rolled the engine over by hand and observed the valves opening and closing and and the picture shows the piston at the top of its travel after the intake valve has closed. Respectfully Karl
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I will try not too, did lots of tuning by ear when i was a lot younger so I'm far from a novice . right now just trying to get it setup before winter I have got the main engine back together working of the fuel pump and intake and exhaust mans and carb next hoping to fire it up after the long weekend. Thanks Karl
