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Posted

I saw the painter today and it appears that my paint has developed tiny blisters. I thought these could be buffed out but he says no. The car needs to be wet sanded and repainted. He has no idea why this has happened and will make good on the paint job. I told him if he isn’t sure what caused the problem I would rather wet sand the paint, compound it, and buff it out then wait another year before it is repaint to see if the problem persists. I don’t want to have the car repainted only to develop more blisters at another point in the future. It has been 2 years since the car was first painted and I am not looking forward to doing this again. Hopefully it is as bad as it is going to be otherwise I see no other option then taking it back down to the metal and redoing everything. Damn…. This is not good. :eek:

Chet…

Posted

Chet that sucks! And you just got most of your trim back on! At least your painter is standing behind the work.

Posted

Sounds like moisture in the air supply for the gun. It takes a while to develop and the skin to start to break. When you try to polish the car a white residue will remain in the pin holes in the paint after the glaze is wiped off, not a pretty thing to see. I had a 65 Lemons that I had the right rear quarter repainted in the late sixties because of prior damage and it blistered then the paint skin broke and it developed pin holes in the paint, I was told it was caused by moisture in the air supply.

Posted
Chet that sucks! And you just got most of your trim back on! At least your painter is standing behind the work.

Ed.

"That sucks" doesn't even come close to the way I feel right now. At this point there is no sense finishing up anymore of the trim. I guess I will just shift gears and work on other projects I just don't have the motivation to get back at the car again. I will.., but not today.

Chet...

Posted
Sounds like moisture in the air supply for the gun. It takes a while to develop and the skin to start to break. When you try to polish the car a white residue will remain in the pin holes in the paint after the glaze is wiped off, not a pretty thing to see. I had a 65 Lemons that I had the right rear quarter repainted in the late sixties because of prior damage and it blistered then the paint skin broke and it developed pin holes in the paint, I was told it was caused by moisture in the air supply.

Jim,

The painter said it wasn’t moisture. It's less like blisters and more like little dimples. I can't take a picture because it doesn't show up to the camera. But you can see and feel it.

Who knows but I only want to do this one more time and I want it to be right no matter what needs to be done. The painter is willing to work with me on this because he really isn't sure why this happened. I believe him and he seems more then sincerely concerned. Sh@t happens !

Chet...

Posted

Thats the best thing you can do. It will come back. There's been times where my plymouth has sat for weeks because something wasn't going right. I think it sat for 6 weeks after I crashed it. Probably would have been even longer if winter wasn't approaching fast and it needed to go to storage.

Posted

I had a similar thing happen when my '48 Dodge D25 Club coupe was repainted 2 1/2 years ago. Painters were not quite satisfied and thought it had a bit too much dust in it. They gave it a quick sand and resprayed it. Blisters and bubbles appeared in big areas. They had resprayed it too soon according to what I could learn. They eventually resanded it after several months of curing and then repainted it again. It turned out perfect. Fortunately, I had not added any trim at that point. I can certainly relate to your frustration and it must be hard after being done for two years. It will be worth it in the long run though!

Posted

Robert,

Your story is encouraging. My main concern is to ensure that whatever is going on is finished. Doing the wet sanding and waiting a couple of months to see if anything else develops seems to be my best bet right now. Repaint in the spring.

Chet…

Posted

Chet, that sounds like the best plan at this point. I just want to encourage you to hang in there and know that in the end, it will be worth it! Good luck!

Posted

Chet:

Are the blister in an area inwhich there might have been some filler used and now there might have been sometime of contamination in the filler or bondo when they sprayed the base coat and the solvents are now working their way throught the top coat. I would also contact the paint manufacturers to see if they have seen this issue. They might have had a bad batch of paint or even the company that mixed the colors for you might have had an issue but have never been told that the paint went south.

These are just my thoughts but sounds as if some form of old leftover solvents are working their way throught the final coat.

Keep us posted.

Rich HArtung

Desoto1939@aol.com

Posted
Chet:

Are the blister in an area inwhich there might have been some filler used and now there might have been sometime of contamination in the filler or bondo when they sprayed the base coat and the solvents are now working their way throught the top coat. I would also contact the paint manufacturers to see if they have seen this issue. They might have had a bad batch of paint or even the company that mixed the colors for you might have had an issue but have never been told that the paint went south.

These are just my thoughts but sounds as if some form of old leftover solvents are working their way throught the final coat.

Keep us posted.

Rich HArtung

Desoto1939@aol.com

Rich,

Your thoughts are well placed and I was also thinking these very same things. I need to collect the various names of the solvents I used over the years getting the body ready for the paint. The painter didn’t think any of this caused the problem but if something I put on this car is causing the problem it will have to be removed. Oh and yes it appears to be all over except the doors and trunk. The trunk was reshot after I damaged it. No problem at all with the trunk lid. It is more on the body roof, front hood and front fenders ??? But a little bit in other places but not as much. I think it might have been something in the painters equipment. Right after my car was finished he moved into a brand new shop with new equipment and paint booth. He doesn't want any money for the repaint or labor.

Chet…

Posted

Chester, a lot of times you will get what is called solvent popping. What it is is trapped solvent and as time passes it rises into tiny bubbles, it can be sanded and buffed out in most cases. Good call on your part, give it a few months and see what it looks like most likely it will not come back.

Posted

Hi Chester, sad to hear that the paint has some problems. I was wondering, did your guy seal the car before painting it. We seal all jobs even when we take the car to bare metal. My car still has some small imperfections after 8 years. Chemicals have the tendency to react.

Posted

dezeldoc may be on the right rack.......... any little amounts of any excess solvents or even the primers underneath can cause the topcoat to react. It's escpecially true when the car is subjected to sitting in the sun for any lenght of time.

Posted

dezeldoc,

You have pretty much described what seems to have happened. The little pops are so fine and in some cases you have to be in bright sun to really see them. In other places it is more pronounced. Mostly on the front fender flat spaces that were very weathered and were filled with light bondo. I’ll work with the painter and I know we will get it resolved just really bummed out right now.

Rodney, yes the painter sealed it prior to the final coat. I think dezeldoc hit the nail on the head. The great thing about this forum is that no matter what the problem is somebody else has been there and done that. All the advice is really helpful because I really don’t know that much about this paint stuff.

Chet…

Posted

just to pile on: from what I've seen, moisture in the air supply will show up as blisters immediately upon top coat application. Crazing or blisters that show up gradually as the top coat cures is outgassing of the base coat as its chemicals react to the chemicals in the top coat. This is usually attributed to mixing paint systems from different manufacturers (primer from company A with top coat from company B). One approach to avoid this is coating the base primer with a primer that is compatible with the desired topcoat.

Posted (edited)

I just was wondering about this paint problem as on my bus one section has broke out like it had slight case of acne. Now this didn't happen for a few years after it was painted. It has an emron paint job and that paint is hard as nail. It's locations are here and there and not everywhere. Anybody got an idea of what happened? The paint surface is still good but has those bumps like I said a case of acne. I would say they cover a 1/16 of the bus finish but its stopped and the question why did it happen?:confused:

Edited by JIPJOBXX
Posted

Thanks and now I know what happened???????? Can I just sand down this surface and repaint with a clear coat? And can you get clear coat in a small spray can?????????

Posted

It's been so long since i have worked with imron... i have no idea what would be compatible with it today. Most paint stores can make you any paint in a spray can, check with your local paint store and see what they recommend.

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