Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Just rebuilt the stock short block motor on my P15. Everything seems fine with the exception of the oil filter. I have replaced the sealed by-pass oil filter with one that you can replace the elements in. Problem is, every time I run the engine it forces oil out of the top of the filter and deposits it on my drive.

This is not pleasing my (usually) very understanding wife! The rubber seal on the canister looks good and I've tried really tightening it down but nothing seems to work.

Regarding pressure, I'm getting about 45 psi on a reasonably fast idle. The dipstick is telling me to add another quart so I have not over-filled it.

I have a 150 mile journey on Friday so if I can't find a solution it's back with the original sealed canister. Any advice would be greatly appreciated :)

Posted

There seems to be several different types of these filters, and the gaskets from one do not necessarily work on the other types, and cause this type of leak. Can be irratating for sure.

Posted

On my filter canister the very top of the dome was pulled down from many years of tightening , or over tightening . This meant that the tightening bolt was tight or out of threads before the filter cap pulled the gasket tight enough , and it would leak . The solution was hammering the dome back into shape . Also on mine there is a copper washer between the top of the dome and the tightening nut , which is a T handle , to seal the center of the top . Now I have never had the center section apart to get at the copper washer but another member has had his apart .

Posted
150 miles. just plug the hole in the block and run without the filter, or run the line from the "out" to the "in" and bypass the filter.

Sounds good! Lots of folks bypass the filter altogether, and just change the oil more often.

Posted
Makes it like they were born. Without the optional oil filter:)

Depends on the year: The filter was standard on my car.

If you aren't going to have the filter on the car it would be better to plug the holes in the block than to run a straight piece of tubing from the oil gallery to the pan drain. On your "newer" (post mid-to-late '33) engines the pressure relief valve should block the flow but just in case you might want to avoid a potential failure mode.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

UK-

You may want to look into a modern spin-on bypass filter like the Baldwin B-164 and base. I got this tip from a gentleman that customizes M37's and PW's, the filtration is better, and the changeout mess much less. Also, the availability of elements for the "sock-type" is becoming questionable, since it's a very low-volume market.

I would retain a filter, as it will protect your engine against recirculating wear debris, and the bypass will filter all of the oil in the sump in 4-5 min at highway rpm's.

Edited by maineSSS

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use