lelshaddai Posted September 10, 2012 Author Report Posted September 10, 2012 Sorry, I am new to some of this. Where is the terminal? Is it on the voltage reg? ARM/BAT/FLD Quote
lelshaddai Posted September 10, 2012 Author Report Posted September 10, 2012 I know which terminal now after rereading the post. If it charges that way, what does that tell me? Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 10, 2012 Report Posted September 10, 2012 I know which terminal now after rereading the post. If it charges that way, what does that tell me? If you have the repair manual the procedure and the test points are clearly outlined and there are even pictures that will help you so as not to get on the wrong test point trying to follow a description/procedure given here.. Quote
lelshaddai Posted September 10, 2012 Author Report Posted September 10, 2012 Yes, I see the tests now in the manual. I will start there today. Quote
greg g Posted September 10, 2012 Report Posted September 10, 2012 If the amp gauge jumps to full charge with the field terminal of the genertor momentarily grounded it shows the Genny is working and points toward a fault in the voltage regulator. The regulator controls the field coils by enegizing them to creat a magnetic field in which the armature turnes, The longer the coils are energized the more current the genny will put out, by grounding the field you are temporarily fully charging it creating its strongest magnetic field. the regulators job is to sense the need of the battery and regulate the field coils to produce the current needed through opening closing a se of points the power the field according to that need. A healthy system as noted should put out about 7 volts and from 0 to 30 Amps depending on need. By the way is your battery hooked up with positive grounded, and are your battery cables the correct gauge? Nice and thick not the weeny ones on 12V cars. Quote
lelshaddai Posted September 10, 2012 Author Report Posted September 10, 2012 Yes, positive ground and thick battery cables. While it is running the battery shows 8.2 volts. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 10, 2012 Report Posted September 10, 2012 then you should not be having a charging problem..8.2 is a bit more than specs..8.0 but without a calibrated meter one could only guess at the .2 being a problem...odds are when messing with the system you have either make connection or ground on one of the wires/assemblies..do go back and check close your connections/grounds..also look close at the connections on the amp meter under the dash for clean and tight. Quote
lelshaddai Posted September 10, 2012 Author Report Posted September 10, 2012 Yes, my afternoon is going to be filled with testing from the book and looking for bad grounds.....and fixing the oil gauge hose. Quote
lelshaddai Posted September 10, 2012 Author Report Posted September 10, 2012 Well, I tried the tests and still can not get the system to charge. The BAT terminal on the regulator reads 6.5 volts when off and up to 10 volts when running. The Field terminal reads 6+ volts when running. I do not get a read from the ARM terminal. I enclosed a pic of the regulator and gauge when the lights are on and running. The regulator is grounded. [/img] Quote
lelshaddai Posted September 11, 2012 Author Report Posted September 11, 2012 I tried some more testing. Here is another wrinkle. While the car is running it is at 0. I have the cover off the regulator right now. If I push in the contact for the battery terminal (the contact is not touching now)the charge goes to positive even with the lights on. Should I just replace the regulator or try the adjustment the manual takes about? I do not want to do any more damage to the car. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted September 11, 2012 Report Posted September 11, 2012 I'd replace the regulator. Quote
lelshaddai Posted September 20, 2012 Author Report Posted September 20, 2012 I replaced the regulator and it fixed the charging problem. Problem now is when you turn on the headlights the bright indicator light is on all the time. When you turn on the bright the dims stay on also. Is this just a bad dimmer? Quote
Niel Hoback Posted September 20, 2012 Report Posted September 20, 2012 The dimmer switch is in a really bad position under the floor and probably needs cleaning. Too much corrosion, toss it and get another. Assuming the headlights are wired correctly. Quote
duke7427 Posted September 20, 2012 Report Posted September 20, 2012 If it were me, I would start replacing the cloth wire on the car one by one. I had the same problem with mine, and ignored all the comments about the old wires. Long story short, my VR burnt up after i rebuilt my generator, then all the cloth wire started on fire and the whole engine compartment went up. Those old wires corrode very easily, and at least on mine, most of my ground wires were non existant. i can see in your picture, you have some exposed wiring. This will cause a loss in amps. Quote
55 Fargo Posted September 21, 2012 Report Posted September 21, 2012 If it were me, I would start replacing the cloth wire on the car one by one. I had the same problem with mine, and ignored all the comments about the old wires. Long story short, my VR burnt up after i rebuilt my generator, then all the cloth wire started on fire and the whole engine compartment went up. Those old wires corrode very easily, and at least on mine, most of my ground wires were non existant. i can see in your picture, you have some exposed wiring. This will cause a loss in amps. I concur, get rid of all that old crap, that is too far gone, a fire waiting too happen, I know how that works. Re-wire 1 at a time is straight forward and simple, get the schematic, a number of rolls of colored wire in 12,14, 16 gauge, some 10 gauge for the genny wire, heater motor etc. New bulb sockets too, check all switches, heck it is simple enough to install a small fuse panel,and work from that. Buy or have made 2/0 battery cables, install a new ground strap, and thing will be a lot better. Wiring was 1 of my favorite jobs on my old vehicles. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 22, 2012 Report Posted September 22, 2012 I replaced the regulator and it fixed the charging problem. Problem now is when you turn on the headlights the bright indicator light is on all the time. When you turn on the bright the dims stay on also. Is this just a bad dimmer? could be nothing more than an improper wired switch..the high beam terminal should be the one with the two wires..it would be easy to put it on the supply line by mistake.. Quote
lelshaddai Posted September 29, 2012 Author Report Posted September 29, 2012 Yes, it was bad wiring by the switch. All fixed. Thanks. Quote
40P10touring sedan Posted September 30, 2012 Report Posted September 30, 2012 (edited) That's good, but like folks have said, if you have any open wiring{worn/gone cloth covering} I'd really suggest you start replacing each and any wire with a new one...add to that all the connections could/should be removed and cleaned for better contact and transfer...you've seen how afew bad contacts can bring the system down...bad lighting, intermittant working, erratic gauges...luckily there isn't all that much of a system there to slowly replace...heck, my '40 doesn't have any fuses, which really means my wiring has to be up to snuff or an electrical fire could be an issue. I ponied up and bought an EZ wiring harness{$168}...21 circuit...I want all the circuits/bases covered when I convert to 12v and add my intended accessories....speaking of which, I need to make a new bracket for my new 12v electric wiper conversion....vacuum wipers....well...suck! Edited September 30, 2012 by 40P10touring sedan adding a terrible pun Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.