freeze plug

[Rodney Bullock]

OK, so i'm looking at the engine in the 1940 and I see some anti freeze on the block it's coming from a plug. I have a 1951 plymouth motor and I need to know the size of the freeze plug right in front of the starter. I will have to remove the starter to remove the plug I guess. I tried to buy a plug from the store however they need to know the size. One other question would that pluig leaking make the motor run warmer? Just a shot in the dark. Need to fix this before winter:rolleyes: Any clues as to how to remove the plug...a special tool?

[TodFitch]

Been covered several times before. I don't recall the size of the plugs on the side of the block other than they are all the same on my '33 engine.

I use a self-drilling, self-tapping sheet metal screw and an electric screwdriver to put a screw in the middle of the plug with the head above the surface by maybe 1/8". Then I use the claw end of a carpenter's hammer to grab on to the screw head and pull the plug out.

[Plymouthy Adams]

disc style in 1 5/8 inch

[TodFitch]

disc style in 1 5/8 inch

That would be a Dorman 550-023, see: http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group18#117924

I have to find where that part is called out in the engine and/or cooling section of the parts book so that I can add it to my database. That would allow quick look up. Also need to do the same for the smaller expansion plug on the head above the temperature gauge bulb.

[Rodney Bullock]

Thanks guy's. I know it's simple but;)

[Rodney Bullock]

Oh, question two would that make a car run warm or hot? aside from the loss of water. Being our systtems are not pressurized

[Rodney Bullock]

Is there a trick to installing them? I have seen folks get in alot of trouble here

[Rodney Bullock]

Ok, I went back and rad the threads on the freeze plugs it' sounds simple. I think using two ball pinned hamers sound like my way to go...love using hammers:D use a permatex to seal it

[BobT-47P15]

I don't think a small leak like that would make the engine run hot.

But---how much of that rusty, gunky ol crud may have accumulated

in the water passages?? It might be time for a flush.

[Don Coatney]

Voice of experiance here. What happens when a welch plug starts leaking is it (the welch plug) soon blows out. When that happens all coolant fluid drops to the ground. When that (all coolant drops to the ground) happens the temperature gauge drops to almost the lowest point because the gauge probe is no longer saturated under water and it will not post good readings but will give a report that the temperature is lower than normal. When that happens the foolish driver will continue driving until it is too late and the engine grossely overheats. My point is fix the potential problem NOW.

[Andydodge]

Rodney, I wouldn't use 2 ballpein hammers, ie, hitting one with the other, likely to shatter one and small pieces of steel aren't good flying thru thru the air, especially if your eyes/head are nearby .........use an old 6" long bolt, a spare 6" extension piece from your socket set with the 3/8' socket on the end or ideally a piece of round steel bar, 6" long with the ends slightly rounded so it doesn't "cut" into the welch plug and I find using a brick bolster hammer or something similar with a very heavy head makes it usually a one solid hit job.

Also I always replace a steel rusted out welch plug with a brass one.........no more rusty any more.......and Dons absolutely correct re a non fixed plug, the small leak doesn't make the engine run hot first, but the servere lack of water certainly does, lol........regards, andyd

[54Illinois]

Here is the type I put in. 400 miles and still holding....easy install use the head of a socket.

[Rodney Bullock]

Not good advice...but Great advice:) thanks so much. All I need now is a day under 95 degress:eek:

[TodFitch]

Here is the type I put in. 400 miles and still holding....easy install use the head of a socket.

I don't believe that the cup style plug is a good one for this application. It is my understanding that the rim of the cup part is what is supposed to hold those in place and on your install that is thin air. Deforming the center of that style won't expand the outside circumference so it really isn't locked in place except for by the sealant that it looks like you used.

[Reg Evans]

All I need now is a day under 95 degress:eek:

Just get up before the sun does.

[Young Ed]

Or stay up past 8

[Rodney Bullock]

I went to my local NAPA and thgis is what the guy gave me. You guy's are saying turn this around and beat it until it pops out? The guy told me that this one goes inwith the writing on the outside. Is this the cup type or the other?

[Plymouthy Adams]

carry it back..you need the disc..the part nubmer was provided to you in this thread also...

[Young Ed]

Rodney FYI my local napa didn't stock them and ordered them in by the next day. I however had to buy the entire package of I think 10. Either way I suggest you take a close look at the other ones. Might as well change any questionable looking ones while the coolant is drained.

[Rodney Bullock]

Tim, I wrote down the part number and the size and this is what the guy gave me, so I must ask for the disc type right? I said the doorman 550-023 I think he looked at the size and thought it was ok. Back I go:mad:

[Plymouthy Adams]

Napa is my LAST source for parts..

The number so kindly provided is correct..concave disc style..

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DOR1/550023.oap?ck=Search_N0290_-1_-1&pt=N0290&ppt=C0142

[Rodney Bullock]

IS there a O'reilly auto store here in Maryland? Or a sister store here:)

[Rodney Bullock]

Advance auto has them by part number

[54Illinois]

I don't believe that the cup style plug is a good one for this application. It is my understanding that the rim of the cup part is what is supposed to hold those in place and on your install that is thin air. Deforming the center of that style won't expand the outside circumference so it really isn't locked in place except for by the sealant that it looks like you used.

The cup is rounded, so when you set it with the socket, it expands. The thickness of the block where the plug was set was over 1/4 inch. I did have one that I used the concave disc, as it was a thinner wall.

I cannot pull the plug out, the RTV was added, but I do not think it was needed.

It has been 500 miles on the plug, most of the driving has been in 90 degree plus heat.

[Plymouthy Adams]

Rodney..for all the typing you have done you clould have found it...Napa is only a reseller fo packaged parts like

Dorman is under their name..companies like Oreilly and Advance and Carquest still use the Dorman name..I assure you that Napa will cross that number..the counter guy heard one thing..1 5/8" and went for the ole standby late mode cup style...

I know you have advance stores in Maryland...same part number will get you results..

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_steel-expansion-plug-concave--1-5-8-inch-dorman--autograde_22140463-p?vehicleIdFromReq=-1&isAllVehicle=true&vehicleIdSearch=-1&searchTerm=550-023&showTitle=

you need to establish a good relationship with a local..learn their system..here I can go in and read their books, often go in back to match items and have a commercial account set up..I can call and get parts in without having to stop and drive tomake a pre-paid oreder..I also get parts laid aside with my name on it so I know it will be there when I arrive to get it..with your fllet of cars, I would think they would be happy to help assist in any of your automotive needs...my local will even get me a used part from a wrecker for a heck of a savings over any wrecking yard in my immediate area..