Kick Down Switch Location??

[Go Fleiter]

Need a hint where the kick down switch fits my P 23 / 1951 Plymouth gas linkage.

It has a nicely stamped holder which seem to have been made for a special place.

Also: the push knob is too small to get actuated by any linkage part reliably. Idea?

Bill Ward of Plymouth Bulletin forum sent me a foto of Ed Juneau´s 51 set up, but I can´t identify the fixation on the block.

Thanks! Greetings from Düsseldorf! Go

[Guest P15-D24]

mounts to the base of the carb. The two holes are for screws in the carb base.

[Dodgeb4ya]

This one is on my 1952 Belvedere... mounts on the carb.
Bob

Edited February 21, 2013 by Dodgeb4ya

[Go Fleiter]

I never would have found that!

btw.: The place seems very curageous for me: brutal grounding of ignition, heavy contact fire - and (my) carb always a little bit wet.....

The switch housing doesn´t really seem gas- thight to me.

I will not let my ignition ground down by the KD switch but operate a dpdt Relay to cut the other lead (-) to the ignition. The second relay contact set will cut the lead to the OD solenoid. The post 4 of the solenoid goes in line with the KD switch to operate that relay.

If solenoid needs to be cut off before the ignition stalls, I will put 2 separate relays (this one normally working).

Thanks again!!

Greetings from Düsseldorf!

Go

[Plymouthy Adams]

take your cigarette lighter and pass a flame in that general area..I do not think it would flame up either..you would have to have one horrific leak that is a constant flow of fresh fuel in order to have combustion...if Ralph Nadar let this slide I feel certain the world is still safe in using it today. I bet if you thought about it you would loose sleep wonder what is going on inside the gas tank with the electrical connections there and if the old car is not bad enough then consider the high current in tank fuel pumps..what if one of these wee to short through the case...only St. Peter would be able to tell you about it..

Edited May 2, 2012 by Tim Adams

[Go Fleiter]

Thank You too, for this clarification.

I will test, extinguisher in my hands...

Go

[40P10touring sedan]

...and (my) carb always a little bit wet.....

Greetings from Düsseldorf!

Go

Are you running an oil bath air filter?....driving the car on bumpy roads can dislodge some oil thru the AF into and around the opening of the carb...my carb was oil soaked when I first pulled off the AF, which was an oil bath unit.

One thing my dad taught me was that every car can leak, you just have to figure out what{oil/gas/coolant}, where{that can be the tricky one} and how to fix it.

[randroid]

Gents,

By the way, if anyone has an extra switch mount I could sure use one.

-Randy

[Go Fleiter]

My oil bath Air filter is in storage, I modified another one to a paper filter system.

Experienced Daddy You had!

Greetings! Go

[1941Rick]

Look for a push button gear shift knob and do away with the kickdown switch...this way all you have to do is puch the button at any speed and it will kick down..you have to incorporate a second relay into the circuit.

[Go Fleiter]

Rick,

I´m doing so!

The original position on the carb has another drwback: the strong force needed to actuate the heavy Kick Down Switch puts all of its strain on the main carb shaft bearing. I don´t like more wear than necessary on that point.

Thanks! Go

[Joe Flanagan]

Pete Blueskies posted a picture some time ago of a push-button kickdown switch that he installed in the end of his gearshift knob. I think that Jim Yergin did this too.

[Go Fleiter]

Pete Anderson "Blueskies" of Hailey, ID, is my guide.

He blamed his blown fuses with the Kick Down.

I remember, he didn´t realise he had to ground ignition with the original setup, thus blowing...

He changed anyhow.

[Jim Yergin]

Pete Blueskies posted a picture some time ago of a push-button kickdown switch that he installed in the end of his gearshift knob. I think that Jim Yergin did this too.

I am using the knob designed for the Chrysler semi-automatic. It is a normally open switch so I use a 6 volt VW headlight locking relay (my car is 6 volts) with the knob button to turn the O/D on and off. Works great.

Jim Yergin

[190bearplace]

The NAPA part number for a 12 volt double locking relay is AR284 altough I haven't installed it yet.

[greg g]

I have seen the switches mounted on the head near the throttle linkage bell crank. positions such that then the crank is at the WOT position it contacts and depresses the switch.

[suntennis]

My 52 car came with OD and it has the kickdown switch mounted over the cylinder head near the rear on the drivers side. If desired, I could get you a photo of the mounting bracket.

[Go Fleiter]

could You please post one?

Thanks! Go

[suntennis]

Kickdown switch

[Go Fleiter]

seems much better to me than on the carb near the main shaft.

Thanks!

Go

[suntennis]

To push on the kickdown switch, there is a tab on the bellcrank that makes the contact. If you look close at the bottom side of the bellcrak you can see the bottom of the tab.

[martybose]

A lot of us don't even bother with a kickdown switch. We use a manual switch somewhere in the car (mine is on the shifter). I throw the switch, momentarily lift off of the throttle, and when I step on the throttle again I'll be in direct drive.

Marty

[Dodgeb4ya]

A lot of us don't even bother with a kickdown switch. We use a manual switch somewhere in the car (mine is on the shifter). I throw the switch, momentarily lift off of the throttle, and when I step on the throttle again I'll be in direct drive.

Marty

I agree 100%. Same goes for the M5/M6 hydraulically operated transmissions. Full throttle KD is kinda hard on the equipment.

Bob

[Dutchman]

I am using the knob designed for the Chrysler semi-automatic. It is a normally open switch so I use a 6 volt VW headlight locking relay (my car is 6 volts) with the knob button to turn the O/D on and off. Works great.

Jim Yergin

Hello All!

I’m a new member to this forum.  Last week I purchased a Borg Warner OD R10 out of an old 54 Cranbrook and successfully transplanted it into my 51 Cranbrook.  The original kickdown switch on the 54 was mounted on the firewall in between the the brake and clutch peddle.  This seemed really strange to me since all of my research shows a kickdown switch being attached to the carb or throttle linkage.  I can show a picture if anyone would like to see the setup.  After looking through your posts I’m really interested in utilizing a fluid drive switch/relay option and doing away with the original kickdown switch.  I did purchase a VW, 6 volt headlight relay which has 5 post on it and being new to relays I was wondering if anyone would be able to explain how to properly attach each wire to the relay on order for the fluid drive switch to properly work.  The wire setup for my OD is original and has not been altered in any way as of yet.

 

Any info would be very appreciated,

Thanks,

Dutchman

[Jim Yergin]

If I remember correctly, the terminals on the VW relay are marked F, J, 30 and 56(two terminals so marked). I only use four of them. I think the main power is connected to F. The shift knob switch is connected to J. The line to the O/D solenoid is connected to either of the 56 terminals (but just one of them). Power is also connected to the 30 terminal.

When you depress the momentary shift knob button it completes the circuit to ground and that activates the relay and throws the connection of the power line from one 56 terminal to the other. It stays locked on that 56 terminal until you depress the momentary shift knob switch again and that will throw the power back to the other 56 terminal. The relay is nothing more than a remote control on/off switch.

Hope this helps.

Jim Yergin

Edited February 21, 2013 by Jim Yergin