1940 Dodge D-14

[Young Ed]

That doesnt look the same as the p15 setup. Dang

[Robert Smith]

Dang is right... Oh well, maybe I'll have to buy it from a contact I have... He's asking $135. Don't want to drop that kinda dough on that but, if I must, I must.

=R

[B-Watson]

Robert, sweet dodge! I like the dash layout alittle better than my plymouth version...but I don't plan on changing my car for it.

Maybe I missed it along the thread, but what motor do you have?...a 201 right?! I don't readily recall if dodge ran different motors than plymouth.

Having a 40 plymouth I have to question those that say "the dodges have plymouth fenders". The 40 plymouth fenders have a different style scallop{s} around the wheelwell opening than the dodge. The fenders may have the same basic size and over-all contour but that's where I think it would end...sorry, not trying to be nit picky.

There were two sizes of Dodge in 1940, a Plymouth-based Dodge on a 117" wheelbase and the larger Dodge on a 119.5" wheelbase. The fenders on the 117" Dodge are the same as the Plymouth while the 119.5" Dodge are different. And the front fenders will not interchange as the extra length for the 119.5" Dodge is in the front clip.

The 117" Dodges were D15 (Detroit export and Windsor) and D16 (Windsor only). The 119.5" Dodges were D14 (Detroit and Windsor) and D17 (Detroit only). The Australian Dodges used D14 and D15 chassis units shipped from Detroit. Bodies were built in Australia, but I am not sure if the Australian D14 and D15 models used different front ends. Have not seen enough of them to know.

[fstfish66]

I don't, I can probably find one... I'm thinking it should be nearly identical. However, the Dodge has a floor starter peddle apposed to the P-15 Dash starter button if that makes any difference. I'll see if I can find a photo of the engine bay of a D-14 or 17 and I'll post it here... Unless if another '40 Dodge owner would provide some detailed photos, that would be a better route.

I thought I did send one... Maybe not. Let me know what shipping would be and I'll send the payment for that. :-)

robert i pm,ed u on the trim

[Robert Smith]

Email sent!

Well, the wiring should be arriving any day now, maybe early next week I hope! Once that's here, I'll get cracking at getting all that old wiring out and the new wiring in proper like! Gosh, this will be great! I also need to order a tune up kit and also flush the radiator as well as get that linkage figured out. There's a guy in Missouri that is checking on the linkage for me... In the meantime, here's a link to an auction I'm thinking of buying... Can any of you guys with '40 Dodge cars tell me if there's anything if not all I'll need for the throttle linkage in there?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/150807361027?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Thanks!

[Andydodge]

I have mate with a USA LHD 1940 Dodge Coupe with the correct three pressing fenders and I have compared his front clip to that on my Oz built, Plymouth sourced 1940 Dodge D15 4dr sedan and the front fenders appeared to be the same length........just had the difference in pressings into the fenders.......you've got me wondering now if my eyes played tricks on me tho'.........will recheck and report back.........andyd

[Robert Smith]

Well, I'm still waiting for the harness, it should land in my lap any day now... And tomorrow I should receive a center outer trim piece for the windshield! So, when that comes, I'll get the trim back on the windshield.

[Powerhouse]

Hey there Rob!

I am at work so I must make this quick...probably getting fired soon anyway.

I may have that linkage in my spares box. Will check later.

It's been a while since I've been on here...such a wealth of knowledge.

later gator.

[Robert Smith]

Hey there Rob!

I am at work so I must make this quick...probably getting fired soon anyway.

I may have that linkage in my spares box. Will check later.

It's been a while since I've been on here...such a wealth of knowledge.

later gator.

Hey pal, got your PM... TODAY! Haven't checked in here for a few weeks. Any luck on finding spare linkage? I'll pay you for it if you have it! I'm watching the auction for the package on eBay but, I'm curious if it's all the parts I need... it seems it's missing a spring or two... and what not.

Did FINALLY receive the wiring, it took them a little longer than originally estimated. Rhode Island Wiring were very helpful and a pleasure to deal with... The harnesses are top shelf! This car will have great wiring now and I couldn't be more excited! I'll try and post some photos soon of the progress.

When a local buddy and I removed the headlight rings, we noticed the parking lamps were gone! There were some odd rusty after market sockets lodged in there with no bulbs. I looked in the shop manual and saw what the original sockets looked like... I'm not sure what to do for the parking lamp sockets because they appear to clip into a little slot, and have a half moon type of reflector at the head of the socket. Any other D-14 owners please help me out and post a photo of the hardware for the parking lamps... We taped off the wire leading to the sockets with the intent to wire them up when the proper hardware will surface.

Thanks!

[40phil41]

Here are a couple of photos from when I assembled my D14 front parking lights. Not the best photos but all that I have.

Phil

[Robert Smith]

[Andydodge]

Talk about a furball!!!!!!!!!................lol, yah gunna take up knitting with all that?........lol..........andyd

[Robert Smith]

Talk about a furball!!!!!!!!!................lol, yah gunna take up knitting with all that?........lol..........andyd

knitting with that mess? LoL Yeah, I'll knit a set of matching pot holders! When I have a chance, I'm going to post some close up shots of some of the finest examples of how NOT to wire a car! Truly amazing!

[Robert Smith]

Here are a couple of photos from when I assembled my D14 front parking lights. Not the best photos but all that I have.

Phil

Ooooh, very good!!! This helps A LOT!!! And yet, I have NONE OF THAT!!! The shroud on the inside of the bezel I do NOT have either!!! The glass is held in with silicon and a bent aluminum home made bracket.

Appreciate your post, very helpful! Thanks again!

[40phil41]

Ooooh, very good!!! This helps A LOT!!! And yet, I have NONE OF THAT!!! The shroud on the inside of the bezel I do NOT have either!!! The glass is held in with silicon and a bent aluminum home made bracket.

Appreciate your post, very helpful! Thanks again!

Glad it helps. Sounds like you should look for a pair of headlight buckets on ebay. That is where I had to find mine since my originals were completely rusted out.

Phil

[Robert Smith]

Glad it helps. Sounds like you should look for a pair of headlight buckets on ebay. That is where I had to find mine since my originals were completely rusted out.

Phil

Phil, I keep my eyes on eBay most of the time and lately there hasn't been much to offer. I may be calling a guy in Missouri that does have some parts for me and maybe I'll have him check the headlamp buckets and see what can be salvaged from a car he's parting out.

=R

[Robert Smith]

The taillights are now hooked up, need to find a cloth insulated section of wire to run to the license place lamp (my harness didn't have that included) and then a two wires from the horn relay to the horns. Then, tomorrow we hope to hook up the dash and finish up on Sunday!

I'll have the camera with me tomorrow and I'll shoot some photos!

=Rob

[Robert Smith]

So, we installed a 6v AIRTEX fuel pump and hooked up the new horn relay only to find out that the horns sounded soon as the system was hot. The relay was brand new in the box, I also pulled out the wire that runs down the column to see if it had any issues... There were some cracked spots and I wrapped them in tape... But, that didn't seem to cure it. Does anyone have a diagram or illustration for the horn button assembly, I wonder if there's something missing in there. Or, does the stock relay have four posts and not just three? Any horn info would be greatly appreciated.

The lights are working great! They are bright and very lovely! However, they don't seem to brighten when I press the accelerator as it does in most 6v cars I've been in. When I'm hitting around 40+ mph, the needle dose come up just past the (0) on the amp gauge... It shows a normal charge when the lights are off, but with the headlamps on it's struggling to charge. I may have the regulator adjusted to allow 7.9 amps or more, that's what I did to the regulator on the Plymouth, it kept the battery charged perfectly!

A buddy and I went to the Long Beach swap to find some switches (one dimmer switch and a switch for the fuel pump) and we also wanted to get some cloth covered wire for the horns to the relay and for the license plate lamp. We found an auto electrical dealer who had spools of the stuff but, wouldn't sell it by the foot. So, we kept looking. Found a guy with discount priced items in card board boxes to paw through... There was a bag with a small harness inside! It was a reproduction harness from Y&Z for 1940-48 Chevy turn indicators... The wiring was perfect! It sat in a box with items priced for $1. I bought a Y&Z turn signal harness for a buck!!!! We salvaged the wiring and hardware to finish up the wires we were missing. I also found the garnish plate for the pillar switch for the dome light! The dome light come to find out has the original GE MAZDA lamp in it still and it's still GOOD!!!!!

So, I need to get some tune up parts like, condenser, rotor, points, plug wires, spark plugs and such to get that out of the way then, clean out the air filter and flush the cooling system as well!

It's coming a long!

=R

Edited June 14, 2012 by Robert Smith

[TodFitch]

The lights are working great! They are bright and very lovely! However, they don't seem to brighten when I press the accelerator as it does in most 6v cars I've been in. When I'm hitting around 40+ mph, the needle dose come up just past the (0) on the amp gauge... It shows a normal charge when the lights are off, but with the headlamps on it's struggling to charge. I may have the regulator adjusted to allow 7.9 amps or more, that's what I did to the regulator on the Plymouth, it kept the battery charged perfectly!

Assuming you have typical 6006 sealed beam headlight bulbs you'll have to up the amperage: Those are rated at 40 watts each or 80 watts for two. And 80 watts at 6v is over 13 amps required just for the headlights. Add on your tail and dash lights and you'll need probably 15 to 20 amps available out of the regulator.

The current regulation section of the regulator is to keep the generator from overheating. The voltage section of the regulator should be the thing that keeps the battery voltage correct (cutting the generator output when the voltage is too high).

[Robert Smith]

Assuming you have typical 6006 sealed beam headlight bulbs you'll have to up the amperage: Those are rated at 40 watts each or 80 watts for two. And 80 watts at 6v is over 13 amps required just for the headlights. Add on your tail and dash lights and you'll need probably 15 to 20 amps available out of the regulator.

The current regulation section of the regulator is to keep the generator from overheating. The voltage section of the regulator should be the thing that keeps the battery voltage correct (cutting the generator output when the voltage is too high).

Oh, I'm sorry, I meant to charge at 7.9 volts, not amps. My mistake.

Yeah, it only would slightly get brighter when the accelerator was depressed and then it would dim down a tad when idling... Just ever so slightly noticeable... Haven't noticed this with the Dodge though. I'll write that number down for the headlamps, I'm not sure what number they are but, I'll check.

[TodFitch]

Oh, I'm sorry, I meant to charge at 7.9 volts, not amps. My mistake.

Yeah, it only would slightly get brighter when the accelerator was depressed and then it would dim down a tad when idling... Just ever so slightly noticeable... Haven't noticed this with the Dodge though. I'll write that number down for the headlamps, I'm not sure what number they are but, I'll check.

I hope you don't do long drives without the headlights on.... Float voltage for a 6v lead-acid battery is between 6.75 and 6.81 volts. Feeding it 7.9 volts when it is fully charged will boil off electrolyte.

[Robert Smith]

I'll be seeing how well the battery holds up under normal use as it sits now... if it gets drained, I may have to adjust the regulator a touch.

I had the Plymouth's reg allowing 7.5 or 7.6 and I never noticed anything wrong with the battery... seemed ok and never seemed dead.

I'll keep that advice in mind for sure, thanks!

-=R

[Robert Smith]

Ok, so I noticed something recently... The dash lights along with the tail lamps and license plate lamp stays on after the light switch is killed... I was worried about this because I just finished putting in all the wiring to the original diagrams... I thought, what is continuing the power to the dash and tail lamps?

Well, I'd just switch off the power to the battery and that's the end of it... but, I took the switch out and everything seemed ok... So, I put it back and things are working just fine... however, I park the car tonight after coming home from dinner with a friend and the dash lamps are still on after I turn everything off... Then I set the parking brake and THEN take my foot off the brake peddle... Then the dash, tail and plate lamps turn off! The license plate lamp and dash lamps are somehow hooked to the brake lights!!!

Have to check this out and see what can be done to correct this.

[1941coupe]

Hi Rob, make sure nothing else is connected to your brake pressure switch but your wires going to the tail lamps/license plate light and any ground wires. Also, you might have a bad brake pressure switch thats not releasing. it's kinda round with two brass studs/connectors I think. All old connections not replaced are suspect.

[Don Coatney]

Most likely the back feed is through your turn signal circuit. Back in the olden days one could step on the brake pedal, switch the turn signal on, turn the radio on, key off, and listen to the radio play everytime the turn signal blinked.