Break question

[texas275]

53 B4B left in the paster for probably 30 years, so everything is rusted. I'm just going to say Hub Pullers are one of the best tools ever made. Anyway, all of the wheel cylinders are frozen, so my question is, should I attempt rebuilding or just buy new? I've rebuilt them before but they were in much newer, and never locked up. Same question for the master cylinder. I already plan on replacing all of the break lines.

Thanks, Tom

[Guest P15-D24]

Won't have to deal with it again.

[JBNeal]

the problem with these cast iron bores is that after sitting for years, the moisture-saturated brake fluid starts to corrode the bores and pitting will be present, which is purt'near impossible to hone out without having to go back & sleeve the bores for a rebuild kit. By this point, it's easier to replace with new than bother fixing up the old stuff.

[TheMoose]

Go all new, It's your brakes.....nuff said!

[MBF]

I just bought new cyls for my truck from NAPA. About $50.00 ea which is about the cost of having them sleeved through a reputable supplier. With very light pitting you can sometimes get away with honing and a rebuild, but why chance it. The rebuild kits are $10.00 plus your time. Mike

[texas275]

Ok, new wheel cylinders.

What about the master cylinder? Are they salvagable?

[ggdad1951]

same thing goes there, just buy a new one, I beat on mine with a 2lb sledge after the fact and all it was ever good for wass a door stop. Several of the normal places carry them and it's much faster and easier (and safer).

[Young Ed]

same thing goes there, just buy a new one, I beat on mine with a 2lb sledge after the fact and all it was ever good for wass a door stop. Several of the normal places carry them and it's much faster and easier (and safer).

They can always be sleeved too.

[JBNeal]

If the entire brake system is being replaced, this would be the best time to switch to DOT 5 fluid to keep the moisture out. I've had DOT 5 in my '48 since '99, and so far, so good...the only leaks have been at a couple of tube flares that I had to do over, and the pedal is just as firm as it was after the first time I bled the air out.

I tried to buy new master & wheel cylinders back in '99, but I could not find a supplier, even Roberts was out of stock. So I shipped my existing heavily pitted master & wheel cylinders off to White Post Restorations for brass sleeving, and $700 later, I had all "new" components. Of note, I had two "L" front wheel cylinders, and the truck brakes fairly straight. I later found one "R" front wheel cylinder, and plan on sending that one off to be sleeved someday on another project.

Edited January 21, 2012 by JBNeal
added sleeve info

[ggdad1951]

I think I'm running DOT 5.1 was told less moisture issues.

[TodFitch]

If the entire brake system is being replaced, this would be the best time to switch to DOT 5 fluid to keep the moisture out. I've had DOT 5 in my '48 since '99, and so far, so good...the only leaks have been at a couple of tube flares that I had to do over, and the pedal is just as firm as it was after the first time I bled the air out.

Ditto. Except it was 1998 rather than 1999 for me.

[Jerry Roberts]

They can always be sleeved too.

Compare prices on a new master cylinder with having the old one sleeved . Probably having the old one sleeved will be cheaper and you will end up with a better product as the sleeved one won't rust in the bore .

[Young Ed]

Compare prices on a new master cylinder with having the old one sleeved . Probably having the old one sleeved will be cheaper and you will end up with a better product as the sleeved one won't rust in the bore .

Last time I compared the price for a 39-47 truck MC was within a few dollars new vs sleeved. I think that included the rebuilt kit you'd need after sleeving. So for a couple bucks sleeving is the way to go.

[ggdad1951]

so why won't the sleeve rust?

[Young Ed]

so why won't the sleeve rust?

They are SS or brass.

[ggdad1951]

They are SS or brass.

ah! Well no way mine was moving!

[HanksB3B]

I entertained sleeving my brake and master cylinders but found that it was more expensive than buying all new slave and a master cylinder from Gary Roberts. It's been two years since I replaced them all and have not lost a drop of brake fluid. My brakes work so well and they stop so well it makes me wonder why anyone would opt to change to front discs (which of course I'll do someday after my T-5 conversion and my truck goes faster than 50mph)

Hank

P.S. Ignoring the true importance of brakes reminds me of when I was a teenager. I kept reminding myself I needed new brakes on my VW wagon until one night a drunk old man driving a Cadillac stopped short in front of me without signaling to make a left turn. I nailed him. Cosmetically, it ruined the front of my VW, but folder the rear of the Caddilac as if the Incredible Hulk took both hands and pushed down with all his might on the trunk. The car folded al the wheel wells and the rear bumper was only inches off the pavement. I'll never forget that.

[deathbound]

I was faced recently with the decision to replace or re-sleeve my rear wheel cylinders because the original material had a few pits. I chose to re-sleeve with stainless. It cost more to re-sleeve, but, will last forever, won't rust & got to keep my original "MADE IN USA" wheel cylinders. I didn't want foreign made replacements that will pit in the future.

As far as the m/c, you might be able to use a brake hone & clean up the brass bore & install a rebuild kit.

Edited January 23, 2012 by deathbound