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Posted

Got the front suspension mostly back together today. If I would have had the new spring silencers, it would be done. Hopefully the local spring foundry will have some that will work and I can get this part done with on Monday:)

I still need the rubber bumpers, but they can be installed anytime.

The passenger side lower inner control arm is a bit tight, but not enough to be a problem. Doesn't take much to move it by hand.

Everything is torqued down except the lower inner control arms.

Drivers Side

DriversSuspB4Springs.jpg

Passenger Side

PassSuspB4Springs.jpg

Full Frontal :eek:

FullFrontalB4Springs.jpg

I'll be installing Charlie's Disc Brake Kit this week. Will post pics if any interest.

Posted
I'll be installing Charlie's Disc Brake Kit this week. Will post pics if any interest.

Definitely.... I'll have to get a round tuit sooner or later..... preferably later cause I got a lot on the plate....

Really looks good...... what are you using for a base on the frame? Paint, POR-15, tremclad? Looks smooth.....

Allan

Posted
Very nice work Pat. What method did you use for cleaning the frame?

Thanks Norm. I used the Dewalt grinder with a wire wheel (on the floor in the bottom pic)

Worked OK, would have liked to blast it, but...it's still better than before.

After wire wheeling before primer and paint:

FrameAfterGrindingOffRust_1.jpg

Posted

Pat, nice work. You have kept us up-to-date nicely with your pictures. Look forward to seeing the brake work you are going to do.

Posted
Definitely.... I'll have to get a round tuit sooner or later..... preferably later cause I got a lot on the plate....

Really looks good...... what are you using for a base on the frame? Paint, POR-15, tremclad? Looks smooth.....

Allan

Thank Allan...

Just rattle can primer and low gloss black hi-temp engine paint. One of the guys at the parts place said it was much better than low gloss frame paint. Same price, so why not? Seems OK so far.

I have a salamander heater and I point the heater to the part to be painted and get it a bit heated up before I paint. Seems to smooth it out a bit. Too cold to paint without some heat when I did it.

The control arms are done with aluminum paint in a can put on with a foam brush after sandblasting and primer.

I banged up the silver some reassembling so I can touch it up a bit with some of the leftover paint.

Posted

That looks really nice. Very clean.

I have my motor out and the front clip off also. I already have front disc brakes from a previous owner. I have the lowering kit from plydo also on the car with relocated shock bracket. Id like to take out the spacer on the springs, ( it use to scrape the oil pan at times so I had the spacer put in by a shop), but I never have dropped springs myself before. The manual describes how, but I was always leery of a spring shooting across the garage then lodge in my gut. Is it as easy as the book says or do I need a spring compressor?????

Anyway looks really good

Posted

Looks great! I as well am enjoying the in progress pictures. Gives the rest of us motivation when we need it. :)

Posted

Today I went to the Mackster's and we worked on his 53 DeSoto suspension some more. We're using a different method on cleaning the frame and suspension. We roll around under the car swinging wrenches and transfer the chassis goop to our clothing and faces. And hands. So far it's working good except we're a bit uneasy about all those black widow webs under there. Chassis is cleaning up well though.

Posted
So far it's working good except we're a bit uneasy about all those black widow webs under there.

That's the one thing I love about 5 months of 40 below!!!!

No damn spiders like that...or other little scurrying varmints.:eek:

Posted
That looks really nice. Very clean.

I have my motor out and the front clip off also. I already have front disc brakes from a previous owner. I have the lowering kit from plydo also on the car with relocated shock bracket. Id like to take out the spacer on the springs, ( it use to scrape the oil pan at times so I had the spacer put in by a shop), but I never have dropped springs myself before. The manual describes how, but I was always leery of a spring shooting across the garage then lodge in my gut. Is it as easy as the book says or do I need a spring compressor?????

Anyway looks really good

Jd, if you look at some of the threads that Pat started, there is one further back that describes his spring removal.... to avoid the ol gut shot.... with pictures.....

Allan

Posted
That looks really nice. Very clean.

I have my motor out and the front clip off also. I already have front disc brakes from a previous owner. I have the lowering kit from plydo also on the car with relocated shock bracket. Id like to take out the spacer on the springs, ( it use to scrape the oil pan at times so I had the spacer put in by a shop), but I never have dropped springs myself before. The manual describes how, but I was always leery of a spring shooting across the garage then lodge in my gut. Is it as easy as the book says or do I need a spring compressor?????

Anyway looks really good

If you have the motor out and the clip off, removing the spring is a snap. I was very very concerned about that part of the job. But, if you follow the book, make the little wooden piece that they describe, it's surprisingly simple.

I did take the precaution of tying the springs in place just to ease my mind.

This may help:

http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=1992

Posted

If you're just changing springs and not rebuilding the front suspension it's even simpler and completely safe. Yesterday we changed both front coils in Mackster's car in less than an hour. No spring compressor, safety cables or wood blocks needed. I'd love to post a few photos showing how easy this is (a pic is worth 1,000 words) but my hands are always too dirty to take pictures. All you need is 2 jackstands and a floor jack. In order to get the springs to the right length I've changed out mine twice and Mackster's twice. Getting real good at it.

  • 1 month later...
Guest 50Plymouth
Posted
If you're just changing springs and not rebuilding the front suspension it's even simpler and completely safe. Yesterday we changed both front coils in Mackster's car in less than an hour. No spring compressor, safety cables or wood blocks needed. I'd love to post a few photos showing how easy this is (a pic is worth 1,000 words) but my hands are always too dirty to take pictures. All you need is 2 jackstands and a floor jack. In order to get the springs to the right length I've changed out mine twice and Mackster's twice. Getting real good at it.

I just got replacement front coils ($85 through ESPO) and have my manual open and the wheel off and just don't understand how to swap front coils. Not sure what they are calling "lower control arm pin", do I have to remove lower control arm to swap springs. Could you elaborate, I know this isn't supposed to be too hard!

Ryan

Posted

Ryan

I just replaced everything on front suspension on my 52 wayfarer. If u are just replacing springs, put car on stands and jack under the bottom bump stop. Remove the bottom outer pivot bolt and then ease jack down slowly and spring should roll out harmlessly.At least thats what mine did. Install new spring and reverse the sequence. Did u get new spring silencers? I've never done this before, but seemed to be pretty straight forward...worst part was getting rid of all the crud and painting....I put in fatman dropped spindles and am waiting for disc brake kit from plydo...should be here tue or wed....the steering arms are at machine shop getting ground, counter bored, etc.

Good luck

Bob

Posted

The lower pivot bushing is the one in this pic with the ratchet on it. Lower the jack and the sring is loose. Be sure to tie it up.

135_0501_plym_08_z.jpg

The factory procedure involves the four bolts on the wide end of the lower control arm.

Place your jack under the bushing bar, remove the four nuts and the four bolts, slowly lower the jack and the spring will fall out. Tie the spring up although there was no pressure on mine done this way.

Of course, installation is reverse. The manual calls for a long drift to go through one of the bolt holes to guide the bar into position.

http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/techarticles/135_0501_1951_plymouth_suburban_wagon/index.html

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