Don Coatney Posted November 21, 2011 Report Posted November 21, 2011 You might want to read this thread. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=21259&highlight=bent Quote
JohnTeee Posted November 21, 2011 Author Report Posted November 21, 2011 You might want to read this thread.http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=21259&highlight=bent Don, that sounds disgustingly familiar. Glad I'm not the ONLY bonehead!!! Should be quick work to change the single valve, now that I have a better idea what I'm doing. Thanks Don. Back to school! Back to school, to prove to Dad that I'm not a fool! John Quote
littlemo Posted November 21, 2011 Report Posted November 21, 2011 John, don't feel bad, my dad used to say,"boy, you had a whole brain, you'd be a whole wit"!!! lol...Cass, alias littlemo... Quote
martybose Posted November 22, 2011 Report Posted November 22, 2011 (edited) The #1 Bonehead would like to point out that I managed to bend two valves in the same cylinder; let's see you match that!! Marty PS - the Edmunds head I use moves the sparkplug over so that it overlaps both valves! Edited November 22, 2011 by martybose Quote
JohnTeee Posted November 22, 2011 Author Report Posted November 22, 2011 Marty, there are SOME things it just does not pay to compete in! I saw your picture in the thread that Don linked to. Did you get the same sick feeling that I did? My new valve should arrive on Wednesday. If I weren't working a 24H today, I would have the head/bad valve pulled and be ready to lap and drop the new one in. Should go fairly quickly Wednesday. On my first go-around, I had problems with the panel inside the right front fender. Could NOT get it to slide out as advertised. It remained attached at the top/front corner and sort of rolled the rest forward and out of the way to work on the valves. Finally figured out, with a little more investigation, that my panel apparently has a hole in the top/front corner, instead of a slot. There is a stud through the fender, said panel, inner-firewall (?) that mounts in the frame around the radiator. I'm tempted to take a vice-grip down between the radiator and grill and try to back the dang thing out and replace it with a bolt. Cheers! John Quote
martybose Posted November 22, 2011 Report Posted November 22, 2011 Marty, there are SOME things it just does not pay to compete in! I saw your picture in the thread that Don linked to. Did you get the same sick feeling that I did?My new valve should arrive on Wednesday. If I weren't working a 24H today, I would have the head/bad valve pulled and be ready to lap and drop the new one in. Should go fairly quickly Wednesday. On my first go-around, I had problems with the panel inside the right front fender. Could NOT get it to slide out as advertised. It remained attached at the top/front corner and sort of rolled the rest forward and out of the way to work on the valves. Finally figured out, with a little more investigation, that my panel apparently has a hole in the top/front corner, instead of a slot. There is a stud through the fender, said panel, inner-firewall (?) that mounts in the frame around the radiator. I'm tempted to take a vice-grip down between the radiator and grill and try to back the dang thing out and replace it with a bolt. Cheers! John Sick feeling indeed, especially after it read zero compression! My intake valve was bent over 1/4", which still doesn't make any sense to me. As far as the access panel, my car had both a hole and a slot, and it had bolts in both of them. Marty Quote
JohnTeee Posted November 23, 2011 Author Report Posted November 23, 2011 So, anyone who has had that right, inner fender panel out to get at valves . . . are you guys saying that your panel was slotted on the end so it would slide back and out? Turns out mine had 3 elongated holes, that had two studs going through them into the bracket around the radiator. There was no sliding that panel out. I'm going to replace the studs with bolts and turn the holes into slots, so this will slide out easier next time. Guess I'm going to have to search the forums and see if there is anything to replace that little flap of material that was attached to that . . . Valve now won't be in till Saturday, but O'Reiley's is getting it in at just the cost of the valve, vs. NAPA who wants to add $8.00 UPS Freight! Cheers! John Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted November 23, 2011 Report Posted November 23, 2011 the difference is probably the fact that NAPA are independently owned and operated... Quote
JohnTeee Posted November 26, 2011 Author Report Posted November 26, 2011 Intake valve came in this morning. It was going to cost $12.49 + $8.00 shipping from NAPA. O'Reilly got it in for $11.49, no shipping charge. Yay! Pulled the head, pulled the bent valve, dropped the new valve in, lapped it, made cold valve setting for the new valve and I'm ready to put the head back on. Paint on the head got kind of chewed up putting the head bolts in the first time around. It's cleaned up and some more coats of paint going on - as the rain will allow. I'm thinking about putting some Grade 8 washers under the head bolts to keep from chewing up the paint. Found some references in other forum discussions about doing so and does not seem to be a problem. Get the paint dry, maybe with a little help from a heat gun and get Ryan to help me drop it back in place tomorrow or Monday. Onward. Cheers! John Quote
Don Coatney Posted November 27, 2011 Report Posted November 27, 2011 http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=5328 Quote
Jerry Roberts Posted November 28, 2011 Report Posted November 28, 2011 If you want to set the head on straight the first time and not have to slide it around to get the holes lined up , screw in a couple of studs to serve as line up posts . Then unscrew the studs and put the bolts in place . Quote
JohnTeee Posted November 30, 2011 Author Report Posted November 30, 2011 Well, Round 2 Head is back on, first torque and all hardware bolted up, except for the thermostat housing. Get that back together tomorrow. Between using the flat washers and letting the paint on the head cure for a few extra days with heat, it came out much better the second time around. Got my hood back from the local guy who welded it for me. Pulled it off to make work on the engine easier and found broken spot welds on the front end of the brackets. Got them welded up and looking good for $50. It will go back on after we're done with the engine. Got my radio back from the local guy that works on tube stuff, so it will be nice to have it working again. I'm going to have to stock up on spare tubes and a vibrator (for the radio!). Was able to get a few parts out of my spare radio. One of these days, the spare will go in for FM conversion. Has anyone messed with the insides of the original clock in these old girls? Mine runs . . . after a fashion . . . not well actually. I suspect it needs YEARS of dust and sticky grease cleaned out. I was thinking about opening it up and taking some contact cleaner to it, maybe see if I can lube a few spots . . . Cheers! John Quote
Jim Yergin Posted November 30, 2011 Report Posted November 30, 2011 John, I soaked the inner works of my clock in a clock cleaning solution that I found online. Dissolves and removes all the old dirt and grease. Jim Yergin Quote
TodFitch Posted November 30, 2011 Report Posted November 30, 2011 http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=5328 I see in that four year old thread that you had a specific question for me that I missed and never answered: On the early engines that came from the factory with studs and nuts rather than head bolts there were no washers. Quote
JohnTeee Posted November 30, 2011 Author Report Posted November 30, 2011 John,I soaked the inner works of my clock in a clock cleaning solution that I found online. Dissolves and removes all the old dirt and grease. Jim Yergin That sounds good Jim. I'm hoping I can get it running myself and not send it out if I can help it. I've seen quartz replacements for the guts, but, would like to keep it as original as I can. Cheers! John Quote
JohnTeee Posted December 5, 2011 Author Report Posted December 5, 2011 Got it all back together and fired it up. Still backfiring!!! No power, dragging down like the choke was on when I tried to drive up the hill and above about 20 MPH it really felt like the choke was on. Back to basics. Pulled the plugs and noted that Cylinders #1-#4 were tan; #5 & #6 were a little gray looking and the plugs seemed to be a bit oily. Checked cylinder compression and everything is good there. Better, actually. A couple years ago compression ran 90-100, mostly around 95. This time around I'm 105-120, mostly around 110. #2 after the bent valve had been down around 40. Pulled the distributor. Points are serviceable, but need to be replaced. Dressed them up a bit with a points file and set the gap. Vacuum advance functions correctly. Cleaned up the distributor cap and rotor and put it all back together. And the basic that did it . . . checked the plug wires against cap wiring diagram and connections and . . . BINGO! #5 & #6 were reversed. Not sure how the heck that happened, but it did. Put it all back together and it fires up INSTANTLY! No backfiring. Does not sound like it's missing like it had been. Timing is a wee bit retarded, about 5 degrees BTDC instead of 4. Acceleration causes advance; no vacuum gauge so don't know if it's dead on, or not. Dwell is coming in at 37 degrees. So, a wee tweak there. It sounds GOOD! I'm a happy camper. Would have been happier if it was not raining here and I could take it out for a test run. Hope for Wednesday or Thursday. Knew it was going to be something stupid/easy, and it was. Was just sure that switching two plug wires was NOT it. Sigh. Cheers! John Quote
Don Coatney Posted December 5, 2011 Report Posted December 5, 2011 Good job! See posting #20 in this thread:rolleyes: Quote
JohnTeee Posted December 5, 2011 Author Report Posted December 5, 2011 See posting #20 in this thread:rolleyes: Errr, I'm afraid that might be the one where you asked me about switching plug wires . . . Cheers! John Quote
littlemo Posted December 6, 2011 Report Posted December 6, 2011 (edited) John; Great to hear she's running so good now. Hope we get that sun later in the week so you can get her out and around. I know you're anxious. Cass, alias littlemo. PS. Don't come by, I'm alergic to "ice cycles" lol.... Edited December 6, 2011 by littlemo Quote
JohnTeee Posted December 7, 2011 Author Report Posted December 7, 2011 I was out and about for about an hour today. Car passed inspection . . . barely and its licensed again. Still running rough, but new points and condensor will go in tomorrow and I may try a different dist. cap. Found a new problem . . . when I start hitting above 40 MPH it starts choking and bucking like it's running out of gas. I think the fuel pump needs attention now! I have a spare on the shelf than I may try to throw in there and see what happens. Start looking for a rebuild kit. Radio came back from the shop and works well; needs a new vibrator in the near future - that sucker is loud. Put the clock back in after cleaning, but it still doesn't run. My 18 year old son got to drive a couple of miles in it and likes driving/shifting it better than my Honda FIT. (Click the picture no sound for some reason) Cheers! John Quote
JohnTeee Posted December 9, 2011 Author Report Posted December 9, 2011 I am definitely learning my lesson: don't let cars sit! Getting out the other day, it was running a little rough, choking and sputtering when you tried to get above 35 MPH, or so, especially going up hill. Carb has been rebuilt, float level checked and rechecked. Put new points and condenser in, aiming at the rough running and seemed to have improvement there. Replaced the fuel pump (there was some sediment in the strainer bowl, but fuel looked basically clear), and went out to drive again. It's starting to buck at lower speeds. Opened the carb fuel bowl and the fuel is turbid looking; fuel in the pump bowl is also turbid looking. Adding gas treatment did not help. I'm afraid there's STILL crap in the tank. Guess now its time to drain the (FULL!!!) tank, drop it, give it a good rinse and start from scratch. Sigh. John Quote
greg g Posted December 9, 2011 Report Posted December 9, 2011 start by blowing some low pressure cmpressed air back tward the tank, through the line starting at the crossmember side of the mechanical fuel pump. There is a scintered bronze filter at the pickup in the tank, the air will clear the casting and the area around it. If this improves the driveability, then yous suspicion of debris in the tank is likely supported. A couple more inline fuel filters in the meantime cant hurt. But it could get you running well enough to actually drive out gas in the tank instead of draiing all of it out. Quote
JohnTeee Posted December 10, 2011 Author Report Posted December 10, 2011 That's good advice Greg. I had been toying with doing that very thing. Of course, if I drive it all out, I'll have to throw a gallon of gas in the trunk. Gas gauge is another project. Thanks! Cheers! John Quote
JohnTeee Posted December 11, 2011 Author Report Posted December 11, 2011 Well, from the 'One Step Forward, Two Steps Back' annals, also known as, "Mothers, don't let your sons let their cars sit . . ." You may remember that I (among other things) recently drained the tank, filtered the drained fuel and ran it a gallon at a time through the tank, standing on the bumper and bouncing the car, before draining it back out. Despite the 'rinse' and recently filling the tank, there does not appear to be any 'driving the fuel' out. What driving I've done seems to have stirred up sediment and the fuel looks like this: New fuel pump, adding gas tank treatment and blowing the line out has not really helped. I can't even get it to idle without dying. Time to drain it all out, drop the tank and start fresh. Maybe, I can let the fuel settle for a week or two and decant something useable off the top. Off to Wally World for 5-gallon buckets . . . Cheers! John Quote
greg g Posted December 11, 2011 Report Posted December 11, 2011 It looks like there is an inline filter attached tot he front of the fule bowl. That trype of filter is notorious for clogging quickly. I would get rid of that or change it for a new one, and then change it regularly.I had a section of metal line along the frame under the drives side door that was leaking, I removed a section back to solid tube, and replaced it with some flex line with an inline filter in it, I also have a filter between the pump and carb. Also there is a screen in the fuel pump that can become clogged, between the sediment bowl and the inlet to the pump chamber. You may also have some debris in the fuel pump check valves which prevent the pump from achieving its proper flow and pressure. Quote
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