installing windshields??

[Guest dylans1952]

just got my truck back from paint guy,looks good (will put pics. on soon) .took the old windshields out so long ago i don't remember if the glass goes inside the pinchweld or outside, ithink i remember cutting them loose and lowering the glass through the cab(inside) but i'm not sure. also should i use any sort of sealing agent(if so .where?glass to rubber or rubber to body?)i have new rubber from steele if that helps in answering my questions. thanks!! dylan

[Desotodav]

Dylan, it was a while ago that I installed my windscreens but I seem to recall that they went in from the inside. I know that I have pushed other truck windscreens in to remove them on trucks that I have worked on recently. I installed my rear windows (again) a couple of weeks ago and they went in from the inside too.

Desotodav

[catfishcuz]

With having new paint i think i would agree with paying a pro.

[Rusty O'Toole]

Instructions from Steele Rubber web site. There is a PDF on there with these instructions plus a couple of illustrations if you want to look it up.

The following general instructions are to be used only as a guide. For more model

specific instructions, refer to your vehicle body service manual.

Place weatherstrip on body first. Take care to place the weatherstrip in the proper

direction. If slotted for reveal molding, slot is always to the outside. Depending

on model and year, some locking strips are on the outside while others are in the

inside. Determine the proper side and place on pinchweld. The upper portions

can be held in place with masking tape. The glass is installed from the locking

strip side.

Lubricate the ¼” glass groove to allow the glass to find center while installing. Place glass in the bottom

section first and press in the locking strip in the lower section only. This will hold your glass from falling

in. The weatherstrip has no holding strength without the locking strip. Carefully work the glass into the

rest of the weatherstrip. It’s best to work up each side, then the top, removing the tape when the glass

reaches that point.

Apply clear sealer between the outside glass and weatherstrip and auto bedding/glazing compound between

the body and weatherstrip. Clean excess sealant. Install any reveal molding that attaches to the rubber.

Press the rest of the locking strip into the rubber. Glass should be held firmly in place. Clean any

additional excess sealant.

[Dodgeb4ya]

The above directions are incorrect. There is no locking strip to place in the rubber after the glass has been installed on the trucks. The inner windshield garnish moulding locks and holds the rubber and glass tight to the body. The glass is inserted into the rubber first. The glass and rubber assembly is then installed from the inside of the body windshield opening.Then a small diameter cord is used to pull the rubber lip over the pinch weld starting from the lower center along bottom up the side and back across the top to the top center. Do the same for the other side. Soap up the rubber first. Have someone inside lightly pushing the glass and rubber outward as the cord is pulling the rubber over the pinch weld. Replace the metal garnish moulding.

Bob

[Desotodav]

Now that I've had a better think about it, I remember the Window Fitter pulling on the suction pads attached to the windscreen from the outside and then pulling the rope cord to allow the rubber lip to fold over the metal body lip. We fitted the rubber to the screens beforehand as I remember the windscreens folding in the middle when we both pushed them from the inside of the truck. I applied pressure to the glass to the inside of both screens whilst the Window Fitter worked away on the outside. I don't believe the (truck) windscreens could be fitted any other way.

Desotodav

[Plymouthy Adams]

I believe most of the later Mopars say 1949 and up started using the locking bead method..from the early days the bead was inside the car..later it was outside and trimmed in a chrome plastic finished that looked good for a period of time..

AS A NOTE to anyone needing a windshield rubber that uses the locking bead...DO let Steele know to throw that in at no cost..it is not partof the windshield number...but is supposed to be..the bead does not have a number assigned for the Mopars...I have always had to remind them to include the bead..again..this is not a part you have to pay for extra..it is ust the shipping department forgets to throw it in with the Mopar numbers..

[Guest dylans1952]

all the responses are appreciated ,after reading, and surveying my truck and materials,i believe dodgeb4ya,has described my particular situation,doesn't sound like sealant of any kind is in order??

[ggdad1951]

all the responses are appreciated ,after reading, and surveying my truck and materials,i believe dodgeb4ya,has described my particular situation,doesn't sound like sealant of any kind is in order??

taking mine apart there was no sealer on the windshield or the rear 3 windows.

[John-T-53]

I will be doing mine again, 1 year later, due to improvements in the Steele gasket since. Also, it leaks, mainly due to using no sealant between the glass and rubber.

This time, I'll lay down a bead of RTV or Urethane inside the glass channel which will do the trick, also acting as a lubricant to help the glass center itself with the rubber (as long as I get it in quickly!).

[HanksB3B]

Especially if RTV is silicone based, in a few years your glass will have a milky haze all around it where silicone molecules seep into the glass. Don't forget you're methods and materials....glass is a liquid. Use dishwashing soap and the rope method for your install.

Hank

[48Dodger]

Windshield adhesives are either urethane or silicone...what'ca talking about Hank???

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80050-12PK-Silicone-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B001RERKTC

http://www.goferauto.com/3mauglurwiad.html

http://www.ehow.com/facts_7798513_urethane-vs-silicone-sealants-windshield.html

48D