jchalk1949 Posted October 23, 2011 Report Posted October 23, 2011 Took my car out for a ride today, and things went bad after about 12 miles. Engine made some weird fluttering noises, and then lost power, and will not idle unless gas peddle is pushed halfway down. Then it stutters and misses. I was able to drive it home at around 45 mph, but it shook, but not as bad as 25 and under. I just pulled plugs and they look o.k. BUT it looks like the distributer jumped. Now TDC is on #6 plug. This engine was recently rebuilt by me and has only about 50 miles on it and the longest up till now was 14. ANYONE ever had their distributer jump? Quote
oldodge41 Posted October 23, 2011 Report Posted October 23, 2011 Make one more engine revolution and you should be pointing at #1. I would start with the ignition. Check your points gap and condition, the wires in the distributor for cracked or missing insulation. If it runs better after it cools down check your coil too. Quote
jchalk1949 Posted October 23, 2011 Author Report Posted October 23, 2011 Yea my mistake on the distributer. Guess I panicked. Still runs bad though. Quote
greg g Posted October 23, 2011 Report Posted October 23, 2011 check you fuel flow. Probably gunked up. Quote
jchalk1949 Posted October 23, 2011 Author Report Posted October 23, 2011 No, gas floww lloks fine. Did find a bad #5 spark plug. Switched out, and still not right. Quote
JIPJOBXX Posted October 23, 2011 Report Posted October 23, 2011 (edited) Check to see if you have some dirt in your carberator and plugging up jets? I have had this happen to me and it sounds sort of like the same problem. Oh one more thing and this is what fixed one of problems I had that sounds like yours! The plate the points sit on was loose and where the ball bearing ride had come apart. I just push the point plate back down and the car ran just fine. So latter I bought a nos braker points plate set up and the trouble went away. Here is the thread that states all the agravation I had with this dissy plate or braker point plate. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=27959&highlight=breaker+point+plate Edited October 23, 2011 by JIPJOBXX new Quote
JIPJOBXX Posted October 24, 2011 Report Posted October 24, 2011 Another Idea if it starts to act up again pack some ice around the coil and if it start to run right than its your coil-simple test-Jon Quote
jchalk1949 Posted October 24, 2011 Author Report Posted October 24, 2011 Switched coils. Still bad. Seems to get gas. At least when I push on throttle. Could something in the motor break, and cause this? Quote
JIPJOBXX Posted October 24, 2011 Report Posted October 24, 2011 Boy the more I read your problem the more I think its a coil problem. Quote
jchalk1949 Posted October 24, 2011 Author Report Posted October 24, 2011 We are talking the main coil, and not the condenser coil right? I pulled the distributer and changed points( the old ones were pitted, though only had about 15 miles on them) and looked everything over good. No change.The motor won't start with out the throttle opened up about half way, and than it shakes real bad. If I let up on the throttle, it slowes way down and shuts off. Would a blown head gasket cause this? Did not see oil in water or vise versa. Will do a compression test tomorrow. Man I am bummed. Quote
moose Posted October 24, 2011 Report Posted October 24, 2011 Condenser. Bad one will cause arcing at the points, and make them go bad too. NAPA AL869 for 6volts. Quote
jchalk1949 Posted October 24, 2011 Author Report Posted October 24, 2011 :confused:Replaced condenser coil. Still bad. Checked cylinder pressure. No pressure on #1. All others appear good. Stoped around 90lb. to conserve battery. Time to take the valve lifter covers off and see whats happening. One other thing Oil was down some and now the plugs have carbon on them. They were pretty clean yesterday, and I only ran the motor for about a minute. Hope its not a broke ring. Quote
jchalk1949 Posted October 24, 2011 Author Report Posted October 24, 2011 Very first valve in the front stuck open. Time to pull the head. Quote
Don Coatney Posted October 24, 2011 Report Posted October 24, 2011 Very first valve in the front stuck open. Time to pull the head. What kind of compression gauge did you use? The screw in kind? If so how long was the screw in threaded portion? Quote
jchalk1949 Posted October 24, 2011 Author Report Posted October 24, 2011 Borrowed a loaner tool from Autozone. 3/8" a 1/2" maybe. But from what I can see it is not over the exhaust valve. Quote
greg g Posted October 24, 2011 Report Posted October 24, 2011 You can try to loosen it up from underneath. Pull the pass side front wheel, there is an access panel in the inner fender that is removable. With it out of the way you can remove the valve cover and acces the valve galley. You might be able to get it to move by bumoing the motor, so the cam and tappet are down, then wedge a large screw driver or flat chisel into the spring. Spme pressure between the coils may allow the valve to pop down. Then you can turn the engine over while observing it to make sure it doesn't get stuck again. Quote
jchalk1949 Posted October 24, 2011 Author Report Posted October 24, 2011 Tried that. no luck. I'm thinking that the guide moved up. Machine shop installed guides and valves. Anyway head is off andI will try to get a spring compressor in, and remove the valve for inspection. Quote
jchalk1949 Posted October 26, 2011 Author Report Posted October 26, 2011 No luck with the valve compressor. I was able to free the valve up after a few trys. IS this a recuring problem with the motors? And what if anything can be done to stop it? Quote
Young Ed Posted October 26, 2011 Report Posted October 26, 2011 No luck with the valve compressor. I was able to free the valve up after a few trys. IS this a recuring problem with the motors? And what if anything can be done to stop it? Don't let them sit. Keep driving! Quote
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