Aluminum radiator

[olskulow]

I've been a bit more serious about getting my car up on the road now. So I decided to pull the rad out to get a leak repaired and cleaned. Of course back in the day it used to run me about 35 bucks. Now it's 175$ and no guarantee. I saw the 3 core rads on eBay and wondered if anyone has had success with the during the summer. Jut 35 bucks more for a new aluminum. What do you guys thin is it worth it.

[garbagestate 44]

I put one in my 47 Chrysler. The upper tank doesn't have the same water capacity as the original but my engine doesn't seem to mind. The car isn't on the road yet so I haven't done much more than idle it up to temperature but no problems yet. I ran it first with a non pressurized cap and it started to vomit large amounts of coolant when hot so I went with a 7 lb cap and bypassed the heater core (the weak link). There are some guys on this site who have gone with aluminum as well. Good luck

[aero3113]

I have a 2 row in mine and it looks and cools great in my P-20.

[hkestes41]

I just purchased the 3 Row on Ebay as my car was running hot during the recent Texas heat spell. If the temp was at about 90 or so it ran fine once it started getting over 100 the coolant temp never really came down even when moving. This was even with the passages in the block brushed/flushed out, a flushed radiator, a new water distribution tube and a new water pump.

So, I decided to give the aluminum radiator a shot especially since I will be installing AC as my fall/winter project.

Unfortunately the new radiator arrived on the day I left the country for a business trip to Japan. I will install once I get home and report on how it seems to work. Of course our heat spell has broken as well so it may be next summer before I know if it has taken care of the hot running issue.

[olskulow]

I have decided to go with the new radiator for the 54 plymouth, but what's the difference between the 2 and the 3 row? Does the three row cool better? I'm in Denton tx and the heats raising my temps.

[Plymouthy Adams]

I have decided to go with the new radiator for the 54 plymouth, but what's the difference between the 2 and the 3 row? Does the three row cool better? I'm in Denton tx and the heats raising my temps.

genrally speaking the extra rows do provide more skin for dissipation of heat..but not all rads are equal..you can have two rows that have just as much skin exposed...look at how it is made..and how the rows are staggered..I am really quite surprised that they are not expressing radiators in terms of BTUs as a heat exchanger for in effect they are just that..

[Sigtyr01]

I have a radiator from Champion in my Desoto S11 -48.

The description said is was "bolt-on" but it was to narrow and the inlet did not line up with the thermostat house - well, it was fixed by my son at work ... [sure is nice to have a professional welder in the family!!]

This summer we have had close to 35 C [90 F] at a few occations and I have had no issues at all with the cooling - but remeber - I made a flush of the engine and installed a new water pump last spring

[chopt50wgn]

Most all aluminum radiators are 2 rows of 1" tubes.

Stock copper/ brass rads are anywhere from 2-4 rows of 3/8" tubes.

Aluminum rads start at 2 rows of 1" tube and you can get bigger tube widths like 1.25" and 1.50". I have seen 3 rows of 1" tubes but they are mostly for 800-1000 HP.

Some dealers who sell aluminum rads advertise 3 rows because they are comparing them to a stock copper/brass.

One row of 1" aluminum tube will flow better than 2 rows of 3/8" because it's wider and carries more cooling fins per inch.

The upside of aluminum rads is that they are all ne metal and dissipate heat more evenly. And although copper/brass does do a good job of dissipating heat, they are still soldered to the tanks and the lead solder does hold the heat longer, which means it dissipates slower.

[olskulow]

I finally ordered it today, 3 row keeping my fingers crossed

Edited September 14, 2011 by olskulow
Misswrote word

[teardrop puller]

I run the E-bay 3 core with A/C and have not had a problem. It did not bolt in directly, but a couple of holes fixed that right up.

[blucarsdn]

I used an aluminum radiator from Summit, Davis Racing in AZ made the radiator. The radiator is a three row cross flow type built for race cars. In order to make the cross flow work in an early cars buy a Ford type, standing it up puts the outlet-inlet pipes on the correct side... Us a GM radiator to reverse the pipes. The radiator was very simple to mount into my '39 core support. I paid a little over $200. incl s/h for the radiator.

With an electric fan it is impossible to make the engine overheat even in Aug/Sept. heat.

[olympiab]

We used one in a street rod that had a short block chevy v8 and it really does a nice job.

I've been a bit more serious about getting my car up on the road now. So I decided to pull the rad out to get a leak repaired and cleaned. Of course back in the day it used to run me about 35 bucks. Now it's 175$ and no guarantee. I saw the 3 core rads on eBay and wondered if anyone has had success with the during the summer. Jut 35 bucks more for a new aluminum. What do you guys thin is it worth it.

[olskulow]

Mondays the delivery date I'm gonna start installing the pusher fan

[olskulow]

Today's Monday and I got the radiator in. Unfortunately the radiator does not fit. And after calling the company. It does not even seem to be the right radiator for my car. The company told me that they thought the 53 and 54 plmouth radiator are the same and that the radiator was made off of that design. They think that the 52 radiator might work, I don't think so. Hopefully I can return it and have the original cleaned.

[Greenbomb]

Have you looked into having a new core made for your original? What is the name of the company you got the aluminum one from?

[Young Ed]

I'm quite surprised to hear the 53 radiator doesn't fit the 54. How does it compare to your original? Where is it off?

[Plymouthy Adams]

I agree Ed, I believe a bit of soft shoe is taking place here...I have yet to see a replacment radiator (for these cars) that is a "bolt in" without making some serious adapter brackets..and I do agree once the brackets are fabricated..the unit will "bolt-in" and even with that..I have seen the lower hose not be properly affixed without a need for custom hose design and retrofit..I tend to believe the industry likes to use the words bolt-in as only a description of mounting...not that it matches your bolt pattern...little play on words..some after market rads use capture brackets with rubber isolation pads to float mount the radiator..

[Young Ed]

Like my custom fit carpet that custom fit after I spent a few hours cutting and installing it.

[olskulow]

Champion off eBay. I spoke to the company again today they have not offered any solution. Just to call someone else. I agree that nothing is made to fit 100 % but this radiator requires me to modify it in a way that voids the warranty.

[RobertKB]

I'm quite surprised to hear the 53 radiator doesn't fit the 54. How does it compare to your original? Where is it off?

I have a '54 radiator in my '53 Plymouth and there is no difference how they fit. The only difference is that the '54 radiator has the cap in the middle of the radiator and the '53 is to the left. The '54 I have also has a shroud with it whereas the '53 did not. Inlet and outlet are the same for both.

[Young Ed]

Robert thanks for confirming my suspicions.

[Rusty O'Toole]

If you are installing a new aluminum rad you can add a coolant recovery bottle and 16 pound pressure cap like the new cars.

With a 180 thermostat and a good fan it should be impossible to overheat. O ya as long as you clean out the water jackets while you are at it.

[olskulow]

I think that the main issue are that the flanges on the sides are at an angle instead of straight up and down. The company suggested me having a welder move the side flanges. I might just repair the original and call it a day.

[woodie49]

I ended up having my original recored. it was not cheap and while the pattern still looks old, it is not the honeycomb pattern that I prefer. Most people wouldn't notice the difference.

It seems to work well even in fairly hot weather, but I have not run in hot weather very often as i tend to overheat before my engine does.

[blucarsdn]

A good friend of mine purchased an aluminum radiator yesterday for his '47 Studebaker pickup.. I was reading the install instructions... I know they should not be read until the installation is several months old and something has gone wrong.

Included with the instructions was a ground strap cable, about ten gauge wire. The instructions stated that a grounding strap was a must requirement to avoid problems caused by the dissimilar metals.. aluminum/steel.

The aluminum radiator that I have in my '39 Plym did not make mention of such a thing being necessary.. Sure makes sense though..