Rad mystery

[ggdad1951]

ok, I've become quite the expert at removing and reinstalling my rad. Took it off way back last year, had it tested and no problems. Put her back on this spring and.....a weepy leak. Took it off had it tested again, they said they found some cracks and soldered them up....put her back on and.......leaks. Removed it again....took it to a different shop and they find no leaks....

I've checked and rechecked the hoses to make sure it's not coming from there....to no avail...any ideas?

[Young Ed]

Mounting it distorting the tank enough to cause a small leak?

[NiftyFifty]

Sounds like a job for Barrs leak... My rad had similar issues, was good last season but I guess taking it out and back in this summer started a small leak... Warmed it up to just before thermostat opened dumped it in and no more leaks.. Not great for heater core but I get enough engine heat thru the firewall on those chilly night drives anyhow

[John-T-53]

Do you have the original core still in there? If so, you'll be chasing a leak forever.

[Rusty O'Toole]

Could be it only leaks under pressure but they usually test under pressure.

[ggdad1951]

it leaks statically, engine off....

yes original core, but for the resto, that's what I need.

heater core not installed yet, just a hose looped for that right now.

[Young Ed]

I have original cores in both my 46 and 48 and neither leak. So I wouldn't agree that the original cores have you chasing leaks forever.

[Reg Evans]

The radiator in my 52 1/2 ton use to leak out enough coolant that I'd have to pull over quickly and add some more water while it was boiling over. For years now though,after slapping myself in the forehead and installing a non-pressurized cap,the leaks in my radiator have stopped.

[NiftyFifty]

The radiator in my 52 1/2 ton use to leak out enough coolant that I'd have to pull over quickly and add some more water while it was boiling over. For years now though,after slapping myself in the forehead and installing a non-pressurized cap,the leaks in my radiator have stopped.

BANG ON!! I almost made that mistake when I was buying a new cap last year. These systems aren't made for that extra pressure. If you don't have the core in yet then use some rad stop leak...I bet it cures it, but make sure you run the truck up nice and hot when you put it in.

[greg g]

I have used AlumaSeal rediator stop leak to good effect on rads that had slow slight leaks. It's a fine powder that you pour in, easier to use sometimes that a full jar of Barrs.

http://www.goldeagle.com/products/product9D29.aspx

[John-T-53]

I tried to keep my original core. I had it repaired three times, all in the relative same spot, all times having the talk the radiator guy into working on it. I even tried the bar's leaks but the leak only got worse.

The old v-cell cores are all held together with lead, and when one spot is repaired, it softens the adjacent areas, making them prone to leaks. Stop-leak products only seem to compound the problem, as they clog up the already half-clogged up cells. If you have an old core in good condition and don't drive it that much, you could probably get by fine, though. I put the last 10k miles on my orig. core until it reached its end.

Since I drive my truck all the time, I finally got tired of pulling the radiator, plus down time, and had it recored...worries over.

I looked at a reproduction v-cell core - there's only one mfr in the US that makes these - Maine Radiator - but the cores cost over $1000. So settled on a standard tube and fin style core.

Edited September 10, 2011 by John-T-53

[ggdad1951]

mystery solved. Since this is a non-pressurized system, the second guy couldn't find a leak either (couldn't put much pressure on it)...UNTILL he hung it upright, capped the bottom port and filled it with water....and found the 1" crack in the bottom tank. I'm not crazy after all...theoretically.