Steps to remove cab

[Bobacuda]

While working on my B4B, long wheel based truck, I have almost pulled the truck all apart. My son keeps egging me on to pull the front sheet metal off and to remove the cab, strip it all down and then re-assemble.

I have found some good info on pulling the front sheet metal online, but I have not found a good one for removing the cab. If someone knows of one, or has photos and a good description of the process, I would appreciate it if you would share.

I've noticed that several you you have shown your frames without the cab, and the steering column with steering wheel still attached. How did you get the cab past the steering wheel?

Video and photos with a description would be great.

Thanks,

Bob

[ggdad1951]

I used 4 guys and lots of muscle...we just pulled the front floor boards off and lifted the cab off over the steering wheel and stick shift. Putting it back on, I'll take the steering wheel off to make it a bit easier.

[Young Ed]

We just swapped cabs on my 39-47 truck frames. Remove as much as possible. It will be much easier if you can pull the wheel or even better the entire column. One frame had the wheel and one didnt. Basically all it means is you have to lift a little more/higher. We did it with 3 of us.

[smallblockjunkie]

When I took my cab off it was empty inside and i used a 8 ft long 4x4 and my cherry picker.

[Doghouse]

Here's one way to remove the cab. I just flipped the boom over on the hoist. Found a 4x4 long enough and drilled a hole in the center. Took a long bolt slipped it through the bar were the lifting chain goes and into the hole on the 4x4. A couple of cleats on the 4x4 so the cab won't slip off and up and away.

Hope it helps.

Tom

[Desotodav]

Bob, we used a block and tackle to remove my cab. It was probably a little more difficult to perform a balanced lift than a 'cab chassis' truck due to the 'ute' style truck that mine is. We had to mount chains front and back to balance or centre the lift. I made a solid trolley for the body (with fair sized wheels) and bolted the body down onto the trolley. This made life a little easier for moving the body around after it was off the chassis. The body was still attached to the trolley when we lifted it onto the stands for sandblasting (pictured).

I used a 2 post hoist with the 4 swinging arms to mount the body again after it was painted. I didn't want to use the block and tackle method again as it might scratch my new paint. I was so impressed with the ease of using the hoist that I'm now thinking of installing one at my shed.

I had a mate use an 'A' frame and block and tackle to remove his 'cab chassis' truck body. He mounted eye bolts through a 3x2 length of hardwood which he slid through the truck and lifted against the underside of the roof.

Good luck!

Desotodav

[Jim Shepard]

I have a friend with a forklift (as well as several pilot house trucks) and he came over and pulled my cab off after I had stripped it of everything. I also left the steering column on and just maneuvered the cab over it while my friend raised it up. Same putting it back on.

Hope this helps...

[buds truck]

Here's one way to remove the cab. I just flipped the boom over on the hoist. Found a 4x4 long enough and drilled a hole in the center. Took a long bolt slipped it through the bar were the lifting chain goes and into the hole on the 4x4. A couple of cleats on the 4x4 so the cab won't slip off and up and away.

Hope it helps.

Tom

I was up at Toms a couple of years ago and saw this set up, I promptly came home and copied it ( with his permission). It works great and I have had the cab off and on a dozen times at least so far. By the way, Tom isn't a junior member, just a new name......

[Dave72dt]

I did the same thing with a cherry picker except used a 4 x 6 and placed it front to back. It hasn't been off a dozen times but it's getting close to that. At least once more for sure.

[JBNeal]

there's a pic in Bunn's Bible of B-3 2-ton on the assembly line, and the cab is being lowered onto the chassis by the tops of its door jambs; the steering shaft is in place but the steering wheel is off. It's easier to work with the cab with as much removed as possible, if not for the decreased weight but also for less interference with chassis components.

I've lost the polaroids, but my '49 had a serious problem with the rear cab mounts as the cab floor had cracked out to the door jamb, causing the doors to drag the front sheet metal. I fabbed up some bolt-on fish plates, but needed to get my clearance for installation. So I removed the sill plates under the cab, got some wood blocking, and placed a floor jack on the running boards to lift the cab at the sill. I've seen where cabs have been unbolted and jacked up enough to slide 4x4s under the cab. The 4x4s were jacked up with a high-lift and blocked with tall saw horses. The chassis was then rolled out from underneath. It seemed like a lot of work, but the guy did it all by himself with stuff lying around. I reckon if ya can pull the steering shaft, top of transmission, fuel tank, and bed + fenders, then ya can ease the cab rearward without having to pick it up sky high.

[HeyPauly]

Great info!

[Barry Maxwell]

Here's one way to remove the cab. I just flipped the boom over on the hoist. Found a 4x4 long enough and drilled a hole in the center. Took a long bolt slipped it through the bar were the lifting chain goes and into the hole on the 4x4. A couple of cleats on the 4x4 so the cab won't slip off and up and away.

Hope it helps.

Tom

I have been working on my '51 B3C on and off between farm and other work for about a year. Now I am finally ready to lift the cab off. I used my shop hoist and a long 4x4 as reported by Tom in this thread. Worked like a charm!! The photos show the result (with the help of my son). Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. As I have said before "Wata Forum".