Minimum Rebuilding For Running Engine?

[Bingster]

My engine runs and sounded okay. I've not driven the car, however. It seems that I should do at least a minimal amount of rebuilding on the engine even if it runs okay. I'd assume it was tired.

Rings? Valves? Gaskets?

[TodFitch]

My engine runs and sounded okay. I've not driven the car, however. It seems that I should do at least a minimal amount of rebuilding on the engine even if it runs okay. I'd assume it was tired.

Rings? Valves? Gaskets?

Insufficient information...

What is the compression? Is it even across all cylinders? How much do the dry readings vary from the wet?

What is the oil pressure when warm at speed and at idle?

Any indication that its been run too hot?

If you don't know the overall condition and you feel obliged to rip it open, I would suggest starting with the valve covers and dropping the pan to clean out the sludge and to get a visual on things.

[greg g]

a lot can be told of its internal condition by doing compressions tests and running it with a vacuum gauge atached.

These engines will run and seemingly run well with a lot problems, but if it starts well runs within a good operating temperature,has decent oil pressure, doesn't smoke, pulls the car uphill, and doesn't make untoward noises, I'd say drive it.

Drive it and establish if it blows oil, burns oil, marks its terrioiry with excessively large puddles, or sucks up inordinant amounts of fuel. Then make an informed decision whether spending the time and money to rebuild it. After all how much are you going to drive it. Weekends, trips for ice cream, the occasional cruise through the country side, or are you goin cross country???

[T120]

We all have our own priorities on how we enjoy our old cars.One of the forum members recently completed a tour just under 10,000 miles with a "tired" engine,perhaps not recommended for most,certainly not for the faint of heart. It would be worthwhile to assess the condition of your car and go from there.Part of the enjoyment is getting some grease under your fingernails and of course driving them.

[Plymouthy Adams]

in times past..minimum overhaul were done if the cylinder is within the allowable taper ...if within that, cut the ridge out of the top of the cylinder...and disassemble..you will want at minimum internally is mains brgs, rod brgs, timing chain set, rings, oil pump of course new seals and gaskets.. hone the cylinders..check and lap valves if within limits..guides can be left intact if within limits..these "short overhauls" were usually done in just a few hours at shops and garages across the nation for a very affordable cost and gave a few years of extended service..rarely are the cam beraring replaced in these cases..neither on the average is the cam ever pulled..most were sold/performed as a stop gap until the customer could trade the car on a newer model..also unless there was prior evidence of overheating would the freeze plugs be pulled or any extended attention to the cooling system looked at..

again..this is on a tired engine that has no known mechanical internal issues other than normal wear and tear..

[Bingster]

I won't be doing the work myself. When the time comes I'll have the compression tests done. Thanks.

[Plymouthy Adams]

I doubt seriously you will get a shop to do anything less than a full blown rebuild due to warranty constraints..so if you are not doing the work yourself..short minimum rebuilds may be out of the picture..

[Bingster]

You mean the days of the simple valve job are past?

[Plymouthy Adams]

yes in a way even those..shops that actually extend any warranty will not even venture to boost the upper cylinder pressures on a high mileage engine with a valve job without taking care of the bottom end..most do not want to assume any risk or give reason for any customer to make allegations of damage resulting from the "selected" work done on the older car..sign of the times..