dontknowitall Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 My stater motor is not turning my engine over. It seem to work when I take it out and use a battery to turn it freely but when I bolt it down it goes clank and nothing happens even when I use a 12 volt battery. How do I check it the thing is faulty? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
41/53dodges Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 1st off, did this starter work with this truck before? i know some had different flywheel-starter combos. when you bench-tested it, did it wind straight up to speed, or did it seem to be kinda mushy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 I think you are describing the same issue I had, bench tested fine but nothing on the truck. My issue was ground, and good cables. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 Is your engine locked up? Can you spin your engine by hand? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dontknowitall Posted June 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 engine turns over free.fully rebuild. Bench test ok, spins freely, use a 12 volt battery on a 6 volt unit. mabe I should indeed try better cable connection as I use starting leads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HanksB3B Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 I think you are describing the same issue I had, bench tested fine but nothing on the truck. My issue was ground, and good cables. Sh_t happens to the best of us.. Hank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 by the manual..there is a no load current draw that will give some indication of fit and fitness... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 Put the battery in place, hook up the regular cables and try it again. You just can't get enough power through common, over the counter starting leads (jumper cables). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 Put the battery in place, hook up the regular cables and try it again. You just can't get enough power through common, over the counter starting leads (jumper cables). don't I know that! Jumper cables just don't do it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 Cheap non professional jumper cables belong in the hands of copper thieves. Mine are made out of 2/0 heavy welding cable-they work real good. Starters need lots of free flowing current! Especially 6 volt cars. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harvey Tank Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 I used 2/0 welding cables on mine also. I ran the POS ground directly to one of the starter bolts. no voltage drop, on 6 Volt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MBF Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 You may want to remove the dust band and check the brushes and commutator. Worn down brushes, weak brush spring tension, corrosion on the comm will cause resistance and slow operation. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dontknowitall Posted June 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 (edited) bolted starter motor down, connected the cables direct to the starter, fully charged battery...parkplugs removed..said a prayer..and nothing! so, must be something inside the starter.. the only thing different is that I done is set the tappets and put oil in the engine..but I can turn the flywheel with a screwdriver... It used to be able to turn the engine over before I did the tappets and filled it with oil..... I did check the brushes and they looked ok to me...not sure about the "spring" .. Edited June 14, 2011 by dontknowitall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 The starter turned the motor over before the tappet setting and oil. Correct? How long ago was that? What was the reason for removing the starter? Cleaning the starter, especially with solvents may have saturated the field coils and partially grounded them causing a very weak or non-operating starter. Clean up the ground end of the ground cable if you haven't done so and the frame where it contacts. Tendency is to clean the battery ends of the cables and forget the other end is just as important. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dontknowitall Posted June 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 I will strip the darn thing tomorrow morning... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 I did check the brushes and they looked ok to me...not sure about the "spring" .. This is what the brushes and brush springs should look like. New brush measurement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dontknowitall Posted June 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 :)IT'S TURNING, IT'S WORKING ...! Thanks all, the brushes needed replacing and i was using a dodgy battery.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 16, 2011 Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 as always Don posted some great pictures..in the first picture is the oillite bushing and the end cap.....this should be checked closely for wear when apart for brushes etc...you will usually see it is englongated to one side of the bush..this will offset the armature and cause dragging on the field winding causing exceedingly amount of current drain when trying to start..this extra current drain is what prevents proper current to the coil when starting and causes a lot of headaches with hard starting and slow turning of the starter..and as always this will generate heat that will cause for more current flow..runaway effect....usually these are just under 5.00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HanksB3B Posted June 16, 2011 Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 Are these brushes easy to find? Thanks, Hank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted June 16, 2011 Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 Are these brushes easy to find?Thanks, Hank I did not have any problem finding them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dontknowitall Posted June 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 I refabricated some new ones I still had that were very close to the original sizes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
41/53dodges Posted June 17, 2011 Report Share Posted June 17, 2011 i got some from work, old outboard starter brushes. you wouldnt believe what you find in an old production/engineering facility! BTW: your starter could be like the one i got from merle, it was FULL of sand, which kinda explains the growling! cleaned it out and got it some new brushes, works like new! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HanksB3B Posted June 17, 2011 Report Share Posted June 17, 2011 Spoke to Ronnie they were $5.50 for 4 brushes. He's shipping to me in California. Didn't check, but those looked like the real deal (OEM). Probably could get them anywhere (maybe) but first off they wouldn't be that inexpensive and second I'm thinking the A&B stock has been on the shelf for a while. So Thanks, Hank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted June 17, 2011 Report Share Posted June 17, 2011 Spoke to Ronnie they were $5.50 for 4 brushes. He's shipping to me in California. Didn't check, but those looked like the real deal (OEM). Probably could get them anywhere (maybe) but first off they wouldn't be that inexpensive and second I'm thinking the A&B stock has been on the shelf for a while.So Thanks, Hank Glad that wortked for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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