Can I eliminate my wind wings?

[50farmtruck]

I know there were models made without them; can I convert mine & what would I need to do it? Of course, anything is possible, but I guess my real question is, can I do it using stock parts?

Thanks,

Bryan

[moparmonkey]

Standard cab models didn't even come with them, only De luxe and Custom cabs did.

I haven't done it, but based on the design of the window hardware I'd say you can definitely convert yours using the stock parts. You might have to do some tweaking to the lower window channel on the regulator, and move the front run and channel to the front of the door. Other than that, you'd need new glass and new weatherstripping. It really shouldn't be all that difficult, I doubt the factory used any different fancy parts for the standard cab.

A better question would be, why?

I mean, I know they aren't really aesthetically pleasing. But, unless you're adding AC, they're pretty functional. I can't wait to start driving my '71 Dart, and believe it or not, the fact that it has wing vents is one of the reasons (my '72 Challenger doesn't have 'em). And the Dart even has AC! And I don't smoke either (the other reason besides no air conditioning to have wing vents).

Wing vents are just one of those little things I enjoy about old cars and trucks. Not really sure why. But I know I wouldn't trade my wing vents for a built in GPS, heated power seats, voice control, or a car that can parallel park itself. They're just one of those things that makes driving an old car or truck worthwhile.

[Desotodav]

Bryan, I had a mate of mine here in Oz do away with his vent windows. He didn't use his original mechanisms though, and he had glass cut to suit.

I recall reading in the Bunn Bible that the Standard Cab for 1948-1950 came out without the vent windows, and the De Luxe Cab and Custom Cab models were fitted with them. I suppose that all you need to find (if you want to use original parts) is a Standard Cab that someone is wrecking and you might be in luck - otherwise I am of the opinion that you may need to look at alternative parts.

I found an interesting point raised by Don Bunn when he stated that the reason for the sliding (rather than fixed) bar for the vent windows was to provide the driver with more room in which to make hand signals. The Chrysler Engineers appear to have thought of just about everything when making decisions for vehicles back in those days!

Desotodav

[MBF]

If anyone has done this conversion, please let me know what is required. I've got two sets of doors with the vent window hardware, one is from CA that I'd eventually like to convert to the single pane glass and install on my truck. Mike

[greg g]

with my modern cars, I hardly ever drive about withthe widow or windows open, the buffeting and wind noise is to much to deal with. Inn my P15, I hardly ever close the drivers window. Even whenits in the 30's/40's I keep it open withthe vend window adjusted to direct the air. I think it would be much better if designers put the adjustable vent windows back into the design of vehicles.

[Don Coatney]

I think it would be much better if designers put the adjustable vent windows back into the design of vehicles.

I am in agreement with that!

[50farmtruck]

I don't necessarily not like them but mine will have to be replaced & I am all for simplifying things; but not if it means modifying this truck. I just figured it may be cheaper & easier but I'm not sure what parts to look for.

Bryan

[Plymouthy Adams]

consider, removing vent assemblies from the door, disassemble the vent glass and frame from the vent body/division bar..strip vent latch and glass from frame..sandblast and prime and paint...(lucky here as to get one rechromed, a nightmarish expense) drill out the rivets on the division post to remove channel guide...drill out rivets for the rar wing seal on leading edge of division bar...sandblast the body/division post taking precatuion to any stainless trim. Pay Steel rubber the necessary 200.00 dollars for parts S/H to get their rendition of a workable seals..cuss and fuss while you try to only imagine how the vent frame with top pivot and lower pivot pin were ever assembled in one piece with the rubber not getting split but yet align and press within the pinch of the vent wing body..pray to the Mopar gods above that the rubber when installed will actually mate with the door opening and lay down for a nice clean install...kill and roast a squirrel as sacrafice to the fact you will not scratch the nelwy painted surfaces assembling the unit..now bare in mind that I did not mention putting in new glass...I do recommend it for the long haul or at minimum pull and reset your vent with new tape..the channel behind the rubber you will find is pretty much rusting from the inside out and will require attention now or pay the piper later..now you must properly set the rigid channel (by the way not in the 200.00 cost above but another 27.00 for the strip) and rivet this in place..yes you can do this now as Steel rubber is no way clsoe to original for the leading edge seal and you find you must GLUE this in place..cheap and most ineffective means to repair but again..you at their mercy or no seal at all...else you install the main body seal and vent as the original leading edge seal gets riveted and covers some 3/8 seating fap of the vent body seal top and bottom...so set the seal and glass..(you on your own here folks) and you now have an assembly to go back on the door...whopping cost of approx 250.00 per set (+ channels cost and S/H) not including your time and trouble, use of sandblast, etching, primer and topcoat..new glass if you are of mind as some are "milking" at the back edge...

look of the original vent compared to a single pane...PRICELESS

PS..just did this yesterday..topcoat and assembly..later..maybe this evening..

Edited May 8, 2011 by Tim Adams
spelling

[50farmtruck]

Wow Tim,

That sounds like an incredibly frustrating job! However, putting that amount of work in to something (no matter how small) & having it turn out nice is like you said... priceless. Love to see some pictures.

Bryan

[buds truck]

Try McKinney if you want answers to the swap. I am sure he did it.

[Plymouthy Adams]

the seal as designed can be..some of Steeles vent seals are split from the factory to make a flap to ease install..

the job is not so much frustrating as it is time consuming..removing the set vent glass is a process in itself to protect the glass and frame from damage..

I did not mention but also part of this was the reconditiong of the window risers for the main door glass..I guarantee you that these always take a hit in the line of rust. IF anyone is doing these risers I do recommend that at this time you weld the lift tabs to the riser as the rivets may be getting weak in age due to the rust conditions they are subjected to..its an added insurance policy that take little to no big effort..also as the lift tab/slots are smooth finish and usaully show no damage..you may want to tape this to prevent removing this protective coating from the factory and to ensure smooth operation without promoting wear in the future due to abrassive surfces..

sandblasting these is a must as with the vent they rust from within...the sealing tape holds the glass..it is not a seal against water ..mositrue will get between the rubber and riser from both ends..

even at all of this I hit a major snag as my replacement door was part of a snafu from the wrecking yard, hidden by the door panel and only observed by me yesterday..sad to say these doors hae been in overhead storage here for a number of years..it is not beyond repairing..just beyond my expectations..

[Merle Coggins]

Here is a picture of the side window with the front vertical channel for doors with vent windows.

And here's the window and front channel for a single pane.

You will need to find or fabricate the front channels to work with a single pane. The regulator is the same for both but the bottom glass rail is also different. In the door you can bend down, or cut out, the ledges where the top of the front channel and bottom of the vent frame attaches. The screw holes for the other front channel should already be in the door. Or you should search for complete doors with the single panes.

Here's a pic of the ledges that would have to be removed or bent down.

Merle

[50farmtruck]

That's the stuff! Fantastic information & pictures. Thanks Merle.

I just got in from removing my busted door windows & wind wings. Wow, what a pain! Took me a few hours to get both sides out. Of course the beer probably didn't help as much as I thought it should. You know, if this were a Ford or Chevy & not so sentimental I'd really be tempted to just fill the area between the inner & outer door & eliminate the door windows all together. Just a thought.

Bryan

[DodgeMan]

Bryan,

if you find yourself looking to change your doors out to the non-vent window type and are looking to get your hands on the glass tracks and front channels. Let me know I have those parts.

[50farmtruck]

10-4. Thank you!

[50farmtruck]

DodgeMan,

I've tried to send a PM twice now but show nothing in my sent items. I am interested in the parts. Maybe you can PM me & see if that works. Sorry, but I'm not always the sharpest with computers.

Thanks,

Bryan