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Posted

Got my block back, and I think the price of machine work was very reasonable. I'm curious how it compares to others experiences.

They bored it, sleeved one cylinder, fitted the pistons, ground the crank, did a valve job, re-sleeved the valve guides fitted new bearings for the cam, decked the block, milled the head, reconditioned the rods and installed new wrist pin bushings, installed the freeze plugs and boiled everything clean. $561. I furnished the wrist pin bushings, they furnished the freeze plugs and sleeve.

Is this typical?

On another front, I bought a big (30") truck motor recently. I was concerned that if I had to go through it I'd never find bearings for it. He told me if I tear it down to take real good care of the inserts, they can send them off, have them re-coated with babbitt, then line bore it and salvage everything. I had no idea you could do this.

Posted

Sounds like you found a great place if their craftmanship is up to snuff.

I believe the machine work I did on mine ran between 700 and 800, Its been 6 years so maybe give or take a bit.

Tanked, bored, milled block,check and recondition rods, r and r water dist tube, check cam bearing, boiled out, new welsh plugs, reassemble to shortblock, milled head, resurfaced, flywheel, flipped ring gear. That included gaskets, seals etc.

Posted

That's a great price. I believe mine was around $735 but also included new pistons and rings. Bored/honed, new valve guides, new valve seats, decked block, milled head, fitted wrist pin bushings (supplied by me)

Merle

Posted

On another front, I bought a big (30") truck motor recently. I was concerned that if I had to go through it I'd never find bearings for it. He told me if I tear it down to take real good care of the inserts, they can send them off, have them re-coated with babbitt, then line bore it and salvage everything. I had no idea you could do this.

I have found out these big 7 main engines use heavier duty bearings. They are copper-alloy lined with a lead-tin overplate. They are not babbit lined as on the regular flathead 230/251 or 265 engines. Will the soft babbit hold up if you push it? Thats what has held me up on doing one of these engines. I have driven these big blocks a lot and you do need to push them on the hills even with a 2 speed rear end. I'd hate to hear a knock after a quality rebuild. All I have been able to find is babbit overlays being done. Finding any engine parts is really tough. Most all the parts need to be special made=$$$. Egge/ Terrill machine ect. Pistons and ring groove spacing is an issue too. The OE pistons are a H-duty steel strut design piston. Custom forged pistons are the only way to go being a custom order. I have found over the years MoPar rings/gaskets/ 1 piston and rods and mains for the 377 and smaller engines but no parts for the 413 which uses bigger rod bearings and pistons and has the hydraulic camshaft.

Bob

Posted

a local guy has a 413 industrial in some piece of junk, has had it for many years, has let it sit till it's stuck. I'd love to start with that instead of the 331 I have, but he won't part with it. Maybe one of these days. would it be worth grabbing if the opportunity came up?

Posted
I believe the machine work I did on mine ran between 700 and 800, Its been 6 years so maybe give or take a bit.

Tanked, bored, milled block,check and recondition rods, r and r water dist tube, check cam bearing, boiled out, new welsh plugs, reassemble to shortblock, milled head, resurfaced, flywheel, flipped ring gear. That included gaskets, seals etc.

I'm around the same,tanked,bored,installed cam bearings,valves, guides and cam,milled head,checked rods,grinded crank and installed welch plugs. Thats not including parts. I assembled the rest with the parts I bought.

Posted
a local guy has a 413 industrial in some piece of junk, has had it for many years, has let it sit till it's stuck. I'd love to start with that instead of the 331 I have, but he won't part with it. Maybe one of these days. would it be worth grabbing if the opportunity came up?

Tell me where it is-pretty please!

Posted

If the engine performs as you expect at that price, I would say that price is WAY BEYOND great. That is the cheapest I have ever heard of.

I live in Oklahoma in a relative low cost area, and I know for a fact it is at least double that at the cheapest shop in the area. More like triple.

Just to give you a sample; I had an eight cylinder crank shaft from a MOPAR flat head flash welded and reground to standard was $895 about ten years ago.

Good Luck!!

Posted

Go get that big bad boy 413 Gene! Better measure the stroke though.

Bob

Posted

The 413 is a decent engine, but expect it to have the small valve heads. Not a big deal to open the valve seats up for a larger valve or better yet, swap a later set of heads on it.

IIRC, a .060 over 413 block makes a nice substitute for a standard bore 426 wedge.

Posted
The 413 is a decent engine, but expect it to have the small valve heads. Not a big deal to open the valve seats up for a larger valve or better yet, swap a later set of heads on it.

IIRC, a .060 over 413 block makes a nice substitute for a standard bore 426 wedge.

Are you making reference to the flathead six cylinder 413CI engine or the overhead valve V-8 413CI engine?

Posted
Are you making reference to the flathead six cylinder 413CI engine or the overhead valve V-8 413CI engine?

Obviously, I was refering to the V8.

Hey... It's not my fault Chrysler decided to build two different industrial engines with the same displacement!

LOL!!!

Posted

It's not the only one. I have the smaller version, the 331. Which happens to be the same as the hemi of the same vintage. Try explaining to parts man after parts man that, no, it's not that motor, that is a hemi. "But a 331 is what you asked about". Many of them don't even grasp what a flathead is.

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