Ready to get rid of the electronic ignition

[Plymouthy Adams]

if you don't know what is wrong..often it will help you get to the answer by putting down on paper what you know for sure is right...effectively ruling out components does involve some time and often a few speciality tools...it can be frustrating for sure but it does require a systematic approach..

and to echo Don...if you are for certain the ignition is at fault, the engineer Tom Langdom should be your one stop shop for all that ails the set up he sells. Make a phone call, you really can't lose by talking to the man...

[47heaven]

I guess that fast paced California life must be pretty hectic. Same problem for three years. Same suggestion to find a fix for 3 years. Suggestion ignored for three years. Problem still there after three years. I dont remember life being that fast paced when I lived in Central California for 7 years. Is that a southern California thing? Here in Tennessee life is not so fast paced. Here, if we have a problem, we follow the suggestions, find the soloution, and usually fix the problem in a couple of hours. By doing that our stress level is real low. Have you called the Engineer Tom Langdon yet? Good luck.

Dude, you crack me up! Tennessee life must be really slow if you seem to have the time to go through what I've posted, when I posted and how many times I posted. I call that keeping track of my postings, even though you say you don't, but if that wet's your whistle, then go at it my friend. Since you have such a little stiffy for me calling Tom Langston...I will call him today...just for you, but only if you promise to refrain from your lame remarks. Deal?

[47heaven]

if you don't know what is wrong..often it will help you get to the answer by putting down on paper what you know for sure is right...effectively ruling out components does involve some time and often a few speciality tools...it can be frustrating for sure but it does require a systematic approach..

and to echo Don...if you are for certain the ignition is at fault, the engineer Tom Langdom should be your one stop shop for all that ails the set up he sells. Make a phone call, you really can't lose by talking to the man...

Thanks, Tim...and as I told your buddy, Don, when I know for certain it's the electronic ignition I will call Tom, just like you have mentioned, but I'm not sure it is yet.

[47heaven]

Silt in the oil means the air cleaner is doing its job. If the oil level is too high, then you could get some down the carb when the oil sloshes about. If you've got that thar motor book, crack it open just for fun when ya have a minute, them things might have some subtle nuance that might spark an epiphany that could lead to further enlightenment about yer sitch.

Thanks for those thar vittles of advice thar, Merle. Actually, I have "cracked it open" and it is very interesting, from what I have seen so far.

[greg g]

Hmmmm, I just spent 8 days in the LA area, and although it may look like life is hectec, it seemed to me to move about half speed. Like on our return to LAX at 9AM where our GPS told us we averaged 29 MPH on the Freeways, Or the Morning after we arrived where breakfast for the four of us took over 30 minutes to aquire and 7 minutes to consume, at a diner, or later when it took 30 minutes for 6 guys to provide a basic exterior wash for a rental car. So I can see how things would feel hectic. No matter how fast you think your going, you are actually only going half fast in reality.

I do remember Motors manuals like MOTORS having general trouble shooting guides in the front of the manual, not necessarily associted by vehicle brand, but in the general knowledge section.

I don't think anyone is unwilling to assist you, but it does seem that you are looking for a quick fix rather than doing a systematic elimination of faults, it does seem you are not taking the advice.

Also since your engine was equiped with solidly engineered, factory matched parts, that operated reasonably well for the first 50 years of its existance, and starting having problems when non standard parts were installed, it seems more than just a hunch where the falut may originate.

So if you have proper fuel supply, and compression within reason for the year of the motor, seems all that is missing is proper spark at the proper time, provided by a properly working distribution system.

To bad you can't just plug in a reader and get a P0130 code. then you could start changing parts willie nellie like seems SOP these days.

So I guess I will take your advice also.

Edited March 24, 2011 by greg g

[Plymouthy Adams]

I thought that you had narrowed it down to the electronic ignition in the opening statement on this thread...it is good to know you will be call the engineer..that may yeild the best answer quickest..I am very interested in knowing the outcome on this...luck to you..

[suntennis]

With electronic ignition the wiring needs to be altered for the overdrive circuit. Just what needs to be done, I do not recall, but it has to do with with the momentary grounding of the distributor to allow the OD to kick down. Did you make any changes to the overdrive wiring when you went to the electronic ignition? Do you have the stalling issue when the overdrive handle is pulled out, thus disengaging it? If you have not tried this yet, disconnect the wire from the distributor that is used for the overdrive and see if the engine still stalls. By doing this the overdrive will not engage and if the stalling does not occur, then you know the problem is related to the overdrive wiring.

Edited March 24, 2011 by suntennis
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[dezeldoc]

Yep it is so fast paced here in this once great state that it seems like only yesterday i was a happy teen with long hair wrenching on my first car, now half my hair is gone and when i ask for a part for a 60's car they look at me like i am asking for dinosaur bones!

[Merle Coggins]

Thanks for those thar vittles of advice thar, Merle. Actually, I have "cracked it open" and it is very interesting, from what I have seen so far.

Merle hasn't commented on this thread, until now. I believe 49Dodge1ton is Bob.

[47heaven]

Merle hasn't commented on this thread, until now. I believe 49Dodge1ton is Bob.

Sorry, Merle...too many names to remember, especially if they aren't given at the end of a post sometimes.

Edited March 25, 2011 by 47heaven

[47heaven]

Ok, gentlemen...I'm going to take all of your advice that's been given here and go to work on this thing, hopefully solving the problem this time. Yeah, it may seem like I'm looking for a quick fix, and sometimes I am, but I'm also looking for a permanent one as well, and as I come across all these problems, I educate myself and learn something new and how to fix it, should it happen again. Thanks again for your advice and help.

And for you, Forum Patrolman Don, I will check with Tom Stovebolt again (he wasn't in today when I called) and let him know you sent me. How's that for recognition?

[Guest bewillie]

Doesn't make any differance, once you solve it, you'll forget it by the time you need it again. How many times have I spent hours figuring something out, to all at once remember, I've been here before.

[Greenbomb]

Ain't that the truth! You learn all about something, become the expert, fix it, then never touch it again! What a deal!

[Joe Flanagan]

If I ever have to build another flathead, I could probably do it in half the time it took to do the first one. But I probably will never build another flathead.

On the other hand, If I ever got my hands on a nice coupe and a bigger garage . . .

[blucarsdn]

I read through this entire thread and did not note any reference to voltage supply and/or fuel caps.

I have encountered several vehicles that were having intermediate stalling problems. As a general rule the problem was the HEI ignition was being run through the original 6v wiring which in some cases still had the original resister still in the circuit, which meant that the HEI was running on less than 12v.

I have also seen vehicles which were having problems which was the result of a non-vented fuel cap. If the fuel tank has a sealed cap the fuel pump can not pull fuel from the tank, after the vehicle stalls the vacuum pressure in the tank is lost, then the vehicle will run for awhile.

[47heaven]

I read through this entire thread and did not note any reference to voltage supply and/or fuel caps.

I have encountered several vehicles that were having intermediate stalling problems. As a general rule the problem was the HEI ignition was being run through the original 6v wiring which in some cases still had the original resister still in the circuit, which meant that the HEI was running on less than 12v.

I have also seen vehicles which were having problems which was the result of a non-vented fuel cap. If the fuel tank has a sealed cap the fuel pump can not pull fuel from the tank, after the vehicle stalls the vacuum pressure in the tank is lost, then the vehicle will run for awhile.

Blucardn...I was reading your post and it made me think about the gas cap. About a year and few months ago, I remember driving off without putting my gas cap back on after filling the car with gas. I went and got an equivilent one at Napa, that looked like the original, but wasn't chrome. I just remembered that it was after I put that cap on I started having the problems with the stalling, but never gave it much thought until after I saw your post. Anyway, I took it off and it looked vented, but took it back to Napa anyway to make sure. After looking in the book for all the similar caps they had available, the counter person showed me another cap that looked just the same, but looked different underneath compared to the other one I had taken in. Come to find out, the one I had taken in was for a car with emmision controls. So I bought the other one, put it on, and it hasn't stalled yet. In fact it seemed like it was running better. I can't say that this was the source of the problem just yet, but so far it hasn't stalled on me. I didn't think a gas cap could make a big difference. BTW...both caps are vented, but the one for emission controls had some extra stuff. Man, the things you learn on here. Thanks, again for your input

[Plymouthy Adams]

would it be just that simple..for your peace of mind I do hope so...it is often so easy to over look the obvious..the case of the gas cap..remember..if you add or change something to these cars and soon thereafter see a side effect...first thing is to return to the last item done and check for compatability...hindsight is 20/20 but we here cannot see all you have done and it would be next to impossible for everyone to mention all the little non stock changes made to their car that make a "normal" call for symptom not be correct..most folks here base their answers on what is stock or at least a minimum as to what is printed to let us know what is non stock..

[Lefebvre]

Hope that was the problem for you, and that the problem seems to be resolved.

Mike

[steveplym]

I put a new fuel cap on my car two years ago. Drove it and it stalled at the every stop sign. Found out is was not vented as when I removed it I heard the pressure release. Changed the fuel cap and fixed the problem. Appears you have done the same thing. Hope this fixes your issues.

[Powerhouse]

Glad to hear. Sometimes it's the little things...on the other end of the car!

These cars always keep ya busy.

[47heaven]

Day 2 of driving the P15 with the new fuel cap and hasn't stalled yet. I believe the problem has been solved. Blucardn, thanks again for making that point. It's saved a lot of time and headaches.

[tankwilson]

I don't mean to sound like an *** but at first you were 100% certian it was the ignition. How did you come to that conclusion??? What other parts did you troubleshoot and how??? My gas cap is along way from my electronic ignition. Again not trying to be funny. Dont take this the wrong way. Maybe we can all learn some troubleshooting skills on this one.

Thanks

matt

[greg g]

Proof of point in post 11 regarding fuel and electrical problems. and their origins.

[40P10touring sedan]

So what about putting it back to stock and seeing what happens to the symtoms. 99% of the time electronic stuff works or fails completely.

Since you swapped to one of former GM engineer's mongrelized units, you prpbably have the old pieces laying about. Put new parts in and put the old dist back in.

And remember 90% of carburetor problems are electrical, and 90% of all electrical problems are carburetor related (or entire air fuel delivery system)

(Also keep in mind the 65% of all statistics are made up on the spot)

But there are always exceptions.......

...are you 100% sure of that?!

[greg g]

I am only 100% sure of exceptions. But I just swapped in an electronic gas cap, I can't wait to test the performance improvement. I know it will have a more beneficial effect than the recent oil change.

I am not an expert but I play on on the interwebs.