Directional Signal

[Tom Skinner]

Fellows,

I need Electrical Help,

My Directional Lights on the Right Side (Tail and Front) Blink/Work.

My Hand Brake Blinks/Works.

My Left Side Sounds Like it is working but does not.

The Old Original (3) Prong Switch was blinking so fast when I had my Left Blinker on it was just making noise - no Lights.

So I went and bought a new one, NAPA 535 6 Volt now the left sounds like its blinking slowly but -no lights. OK I changed out front Directional Light Bucket Wires from RI Wire correctly and they are Grounded all new 1158 Bulbs all Around and good Grounding. I am getting ready to use long jumpers and look for breaks in the wires. Any Other advice. Why is there a Circuit Breaker on top of the X terminal to the Ignition Switch? The P Terminal goes to the Light Indicator on the Dash, The L has (2) Wires one to the Hand Brake Switch one to The Directional Signal on my Steering Wheel Column. It looks like I would have to pull the Steering Wheel to get into my Directional Signal Switch - could this be the Culprit? If Jumpers prove my Wiring sound I guess its pull the Steering Wheel and look inside the Directional Switch?????

Tom Skinner

Huntersville NC

PS I already searched the Technical for a similar Thread (They Dealt primarily with getting the Brake Lights to come on with the Tail Lights).

[greg g]

What year and voltage system are you asking about. Generally those types of faults indicate a blow bulb or a fixture with a bad ground. the flasher works on the resistance throughthe circuit. In case of not enough a blown bulb, ot too much a corrupted ground the flasher doesn't work the way its supposed to Generally, if you have one bulb with a bad element, the flasher will light the other bulb but not flash. the bad ground sometimes will light both bulbs, the one with the bad ground dimmly, and again not flash. Just for the heck of it make some jumper wires with aligator clips, and check the grounds again. Could also be dirty contacts in the switch.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Sounds like a 46-8 Chrysler? Seems like a open green wire circuit on the drivers side as long as your bulbs are orientated in the sockets correctly. If so there is a 3 wire bakelite connector at the steering column. Make sure the 2 opposing "Green" wires are pushed in fully. The green wires are for the drivers (left) side of the car. I assume you have the wiring diagram. These 3 wire T/Sig Chrysler DeSoto ect up to 1948 circuits are pretty simple. The switch could be a problem-poor connection at the contacts under current draw load. You need to pull the steering wheel to get at the switch easily. The circuit breaker is the way the Chrylers flashers are protected. Some of these new "Import" replacement flashers are not too reliable. Try jumpers 1st to the front and rear high CP filament contact of your cars left side lights before getting to the switch, also ground jumper the light housing to be sure of a really good ground. You will figure it out!

Bob

Edited January 23, 2011 by Dodgeb4ya

[Tom Skinner]

Yes a 1948 Chrysler Royal.

All Bulbs New - System 6 Volt - all original.

I'll Check Grounds again and use Jumpers.

Why would there only be three wires to my directional Switch on the Column?

One to Left Bucket. One to Right Bucket. One to the L Trerminal on the Flasher/Directional Switch.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Yes a 1948 Chrysler Royal.

All Bulbs New - System 6 Volt - all original.

I'll Check Grounds again and use Jumpers.

Why would there only be three wires to my directional Switch on the Column?

One to Left Bucket. One to Right Bucket. One to the L Trerminal on the Flasher/Directional Switch.

One wire to the T/Sig switch is flasher Terminal "L" interupted 6 volt power

Second wire is a Brown that goes to the passenger side front and rear higher candle power Turn Signal filaments

Third wire that is a green feeds the drivers side Turn signal lights front and rear.

Here is a pic of that connector on my N-Yorker business coupe.

[Tom Skinner]

Thanks DodgeB4ya,

I did the Alligator Clips and Its not The Green Wire to the Front Drivers Bucket.

Then I switched Brown and Green at the Connecting Block on the front Inner Fender and the Front Driver and Back Passenger Lights Blinked. Thus my Ground is good up front Conversly the blinker Switch the other way did not get the other two Directionals to Blink.

Then I futsed around some more and my Emergency Brake Light won't Blink any more. I think my Directional Switch on my Steering Column is Kaput???

I probably just blew a bulb out on the Emergency Brake Light poking around with a wire tester.?

[55 Fargo]

Wiring diagram for a Chrysler C38, not sure if you have this in a service manual or not. I used this to re -wire my 1947 Royal Club Coupe...

[Tom Skinner]

Rockwood,

I have a Manual with the schematic - Thank You though.

Now I'm sure I blew the Flasher - I just ordered another one.

Its either the Directional Switch at the Steering Wheel - in which event I must remove my Steering Wheel to get at it without Monking up my Directional Housing Cover - or a wire is grounding somewhere which I don't see being the case because I used Jumpers 8-10' long with alligator Clips and bypassed every thing possible Front and Back on the Left Side where the problem is. The right directionals work fine I even got the back left working - the front right is doing nothing. Grounds Good Bulbs Good ?????? One last thing the breaker on the X connector of the Flasher Box kept vibrating real fast until it sounded like it blew out. I'm ready to re-wire the whole damn car at the moment but that big bucks.

Tom

[greg g]

I would look for a short circuit in the wire leading to the front left. The bussing from the breaker is probably it breaking and reseting, as it does its job.

[Tom Skinner]

10-4 I'm going to run new separate wires if need be with the new Flasher

Thanks for the help - everyone! This is a great Site - if that doesn't work

i'll pull the Steering Wheel and have a look see there.

[oldodge41]

Don't forget to disconnect the original wires when you run your jumpers. If you don't a broken wire could be discovered but any shorts or grounds would still be present and you could still have the same results.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Did you disconnect the wiring to the left front at the J-block at the inner fender panel and at the steering column 3 way connector before jumping it? You need to disconnect suspected faulty wiring from the problem areas before temporarily jumping ( supplying a new/temp 6 volt feed wire -both at the start and end of the suspected problem runs. Sounds like a direct short to ground at the left front light socket or wiring to it causing the breaker to vibrate and burn out the new flasher. I use a Flukemeter to help me through these situations. I would start by locating/identifing the 3 wires that come down directly from the turn signal switch and feed 6 volt flasher power to the right and left turn signal lights. Do this at the bakelite 3 wire terminal connector at the steering column as shown in my previous pic. Pull a wire at the upper side of the 3 way connector 1 at a time and with the key on and left T/sig turned on use a piece of wire and 6 volt bulb and identify which wire wire makes the 6 volt bulb light blink. This supply wire should be green and it feeds the left front and rear turn signals. The brown feeds the passenger front and rear turn signals. The remaining 3rd wire is the 6 volt "L" flasher supply wire to the turn signal switch- feeds flasher interrupted 6 volt power to the T/sig switch. Always leave it conected to the 3 way connector both sides. Once you have identified the left Turn signal switch supply wire you can connect a short temporary 6 volt test wire and bulb to the T/Sig switch wire out of the switch and quickly test the left turn signal switch operation-the test light base of socket needs to be grounded to a good ground. Turn the key on again with the left T/sig on- the test light should blink as should the dash indicator. If this test light blinks properly now disconnect it and now connect your long jumper wire and run it directly up to the left front signal light wire already also disconnected from inner fender J block. The LF light should blink strong and steady. If the LF still doesn't work correctly it's a socket/bulb or wiring /contacts issue at the light housing or wiring to the end of the pigtail that connects to the J-block! If the LF light does blink normally with the jumper wire then the wiring from the J block at the front inner fender panel to the 3 way connector at the column is faulty.

You can use a good meter for the tests if you want instead of a light. For the casual weekender mechanic the test light is probably the best way to do these tests.

The brake flasher will work again once you get a good strong flasher and the circuit breaker works at the flasher. Get the LF T/Signal working 1st- then look at the E-brake flasher bulb.

Hope this helps! Bob

Edited January 25, 2011 by Dodgeb4ya

[Tom Skinner]

DodgeB4ya,

Thank You!

Yes I was only disconnecting one side of the wire at the Connector Block on the inner fender trouble shooting to the Column so my tests with jumpers was nulified. I have a nifty Light Bulb tester I soldered onto a bulb in 2 places I used to run down a short in my Transmission Harness a couple of years ago. I'll start back using your direction tomorrow night.

I finally replaced my whole Tranny Harness to clear up that problem.

I just replaced the Directional Bucket Wires in the Front from RI Wire thinking I would find the problem there - but these old Chryslers persist in challenging us suceed in life continually. That is the fun part. Once found I will post results.

Tom

[Tom Skinner]

DodgeB4ya,

You were right, I ran jumpers (Green) to Front and Back of Left Hand of the Chrysler, then to the Green Wire at the Triple Junction (AFTER) disconnecting old Green Wire at All Ends.

The Right Directionals Work Fine - All Directionals work FINE.

Now the Hand Brake Bulb and Ground are Good so I have another NAPA 535 Flasher on order and that will fix everything. For Now I am running Temp Wires under the Carpet - Through the Fire Wall for a Temp Fix.

Thank You for making this so easy.

Tom Skinner

Huntersville NC

[Young Ed]

Tom FYI my 46 and 48 mopars have been eatting napa 535s rather regularly. I think I've changed more of them in those old cars in about 3k miles then I have in my dakota in 100K+

[Dodgeb4ya]

Tom FYI my 46 and 48 mopars have been eatting napa 535s rather regularly. I think I've changed more of them in those old cars in about 3k miles then I have in my dakota in 100K+

Ed, I think all the new 6 volt flashers are all Chinese import-they absolutely are junk!!! They are very light duty and don't always flash correctly. Glad I have several old stock flashers.

Bob

[Tom Skinner]

You know I might just try to put my old one in to see what happens.

Meanwhile my observation is they are all made in Taiwan now.

How and why - did we ever get to this point.

On another note - try to buy Light Bulbs made in America.

If the Chineese get mad at us we will all be in the dark - I think I spelled their name wrong - Oh who cares:eek:

[Dodgeb4ya]

You know I might just try to put my old one in to see what happens.

Meanwhile my observation is they are all made in Taiwan now.

How and why - did we ever get to this point.

On another note - try to buy Light Bulbs made in America.

If the Chineese get mad at us we will all be in the dark - I think I spelled their name wrong - Oh who cares:eek:

Tom, You spelled it right-I say Chineesey Crap! The old OE flasher probably is ok.

Bob