I'm back

[mrwrstory]

Bill..if you look close you will see the L brackets on my coupe..look close to the passenger side and see how it sits in place...attaches at the forward frame mount post as seen just below the drop light

http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=33180&d=1328571713

Thanks Tim, Also it looks to me like the bracket goes underneath the frame mount,....eh? (That's my current Canadian quoloquillizzemm )

[mrwrstory]

http://vimeo.com/40127284?utm_source=internal&utm_medium=email&utm_content=cliptranscoded&utm_campaign=adminclip

[Young Ed]

It looks like it is on top of the frame mount in this picture.

[Plymouthy Adams]

actually the bracket is between the upper nut, lock/flat washer and the locating pin that sets in the receiver of the firewall mounted stanchion...I think I have some closer ups of this on the computer at home..if not, I know I have the as original on the 47 2 door still sitting on my trialer..can shoot a pic of that if needed

[mrwrstory]

actually the bracket is between the upper nut, lock/flat washer and the locating pin that sets in the receiver of the firewall mounted stanchion...I think I have some closer ups of this on the computer at home..if not, I know I have the as original on the 47 2 door still sitting on my trialer..can shoot a pic of that if needed

Thanks Tim, any pic would be terrific,...before I start pulling things apart.

[mrwrstory]

Here's another from Rogue Oak. Oak has a 34 Plymouth. Mike, the owner of the 35 pictured also is the builder of the '56 Courier pictured earlier.

^

http://vimeo.com/40207908

[james curl]

That was good, glad to see that the test run went OK. Have enjoyed following along during your build, although not much happened while you built the 55 Ford wagon, glad you got back on the Plymouth.

[mrwrstory]

It's my hydraulic computer. I didn't design it,....just followed the directions of someone smarter than me.

You're looking at two pressure switches. There is a seperate vacuum switch which is not shown. The concept is that

these switches will replace the computer function that tells my OD trans when to shift and when to lock-up.

I've been doing the shifting via toggle switches up to this point.

^

The trans shifts through 1st, 2nd and 3rd automatically via internal pressure signals but, requires an externally

generated signal to shift into 4th (overdrive). It also requires a seperate signal to lock up the torque converter.

The hydraulic tap shown yields governor pressure. At 48 psi the switch closes and provides the signal to shift

into overdrive. (I have estimated that will be at approx. 40-44 mph.) At 58 psi (est. about 50 mph) the second

pressure switch closes to lock up the torque converter. In reverse, when the car slows to about 50 mph, the

torque converter unlocks and below about 42 mph the trans drops down into 3rd gear.

The source of power to these pressure switches comes via the vacuum switch mentioned initially. The idea is,

when you stab the throttle (such as to pass), vacuum drops, the switch opens, the signal is interrupted and

the torque converter unlocks for that passing gear surge.

^

It was too late and raining for a test drive this evening,...tomorrow, wish me luck

[BeBop138]

I wonder if this will work on all the trannys---4L60E-700R4 and such? Your are correct on the smarter minds---never would have thought of this myself. Closest I have heard is some internal do-dad thats makes it work---trannys_ I take them out and someone else fixes it........good info......Lee

[Plymouthy Adams]

Bill...I admit I am a bit slow but here are a couple close up so fthe fender brackets (l-braces) and where/how they are affixed..

[mrwrstory]

Hey tim, Thanks so much! I'm still trying to get my head around those little triangular kinda brackets.

Since confirmation on where they are 'sposed to go, I think I still had them "caddywampus". And to add

to the challenge I have since lost one on the road somewhere between San Diego and OC,... I will make a new one.

So looking at the "comparo" (which I'm proud to have figgered out how to do)and understanding that there is a right

and left configuration,....is the bracket shown in your photo the same one as that shown my photo?

[mrwrstory]

I'm remembering from waaaay back that some P-15's had a reinforcing panel (for want of a better term) that provided rigidizing duties for the rear of the hood. It was a stamped piece and, I believe, spanned the space between the hinges to lend structure to the trailing edge of the hood. Further, if memory serves, (I thinK) that some Plymouths had them while others did not.

My car does not have one. If one of you good folks could provide me with a picture or an illustration of the part and it's application, I believe I could make one or a reasonable facsimile.

Thanks!. And, again I am indebted !!!!!!!!

[mrwrstory]

I'm very please with how it's looking and running.

^

^

[Don Coatney]

This might or might not help.

[fstfish66]

Here's another from Rogue Oak. Oak has a 34 Plymouth. Mike, the owner of the 35 pictured also is the builder of the '56 Courier pictured earlier.

^

http://vimeo.com/40207908

congrats on driving the coupe,,,,kool video great sound track,,,thanks for posting

[Plymouthy Adams]

Bill, I may have to go back out and look at the sedan and snag a photo of the lower side of the units in question...to be honest, I snapped these shots without much more than a passing glance...will have to take another look..

[mrwrstory]

This might or might not help.

It helps. Perfect! Thank you!

And, it provokes another question. Am I seeing a little extension piece in the center which would provide a connection

and support at the flange below the trim? Mine seems to sag there.

[mrwrstory]

Bill, I may have to go back out and look at the sedan and snag a photo of the lower side.....

Thanks Tim, no rush. Got lots of little stuff to do in the meantime.

[1947coupe]

How's your 'hydraulic computer' working out? Do you have part numbers for the bits you used?

Thanks

[mrwrstory]

How's your 'hydraulic computer' working out? Do you have part numbers for the bits you used?

I'm likin it so far. $85.00 seems a good value. "Computer" is working out pretty good. Nice to drive a hot rod without toggle switches for overdrive and lockup. Close to a modern computer controlled car. I still have to do some tuning on the vacuum switch as the trans "searchs" at about 45 mph and light throttle.

The link to the source is http://www.transmissioncenter.net/SwapInformation.htm I bought kit #727518 and opted for the 48 and 54 psi switches because my car has a lower than stock rearend ratio.

[steveplym]

It helps. Perfect! Thank you!

And, it provokes another question. Am I seeing a little extension piece in the center which would provide a connection

and support at the flange below the trim? Mine seems to sag there.

Yes that is true. There is a small metal bracket that bolts between the brace and flange on the hood.

[mrwrstory]

another big THANK YOU....! to Steve

[Don Coatney]

Follow this link. Enter the password "password" and submit. Then go to page 248. Thank forum member Chester Brzostowski for this information.

http://chetscoins.com/1948p15/DocumentWeb/

[mrwrstory]

Follow this link. Enter the password "password" and submit. Then go to page 248. Thank forum member Chester Brzostowski for this information.

Damn, that's cool! And another big T H A N K Y O U !

[mrwrstory]

Thanks to Don Coatney and Tim Adams for input re the hood support and measurements. With their help, I got about 3/4 of the 3/4"

offset on the driver side resolved. This is shown w/o "tuning" and w/o the cowl seal and is dramatically better than where I began.

But DAMN!!!! now I'm seeing a growing trans fluid spot on the floor. Investigation points to a leaking torque converter or front pump seal, either of which means

pullin the trans. Not a job I'm keen on. The local trans shop where I purchased the rebuilt unit confirms my diagnosis. They will make good on the repair, however,.....

since I installed the the unit, I get to remove it if I don't want to pay quite a lot of $ for their labor to "remove and replace". A big job I am not looking forward to,

as now the heads, intake, ignition, splash panels, fenders and bumpers are in place, which was not the case the first time around.

I do have a drop-out crossmember but I'm not sure I have enough verticle height to pull the trans from beneath. I will spend the morning drinking coffee and

staring at that GD oil spot hoping it will go away,...or for an epiphany!