1948 P15 plymouth U Joints

[Labrauer]

Anybody know where I can find the u Joints for a 1948 Plymouth Special Deluxe Coupe car with a 230ci engine in it. I have a vibration in it going down the road from 30 MPH to 60 MPH so I'm thinking that is what the problem is.

Thanks for the information and feedback,

Larry Brauer:confused:

[55 Fargo]

Roberts Motor Parts, Bernbaum, and Kanters sells the ball and trunnion u-joint kits for your car, to the best of my knowledge

[RobertKB]

A lot of Canadian Plymouth, Dodges, Chrysler from '46 to '48 came with the modern style joint as seen in the picture below from my '48 D25. There is a modern replacement u-joint available mentioned on an earlier thread. Before and after that they had the ball and trunnion. I have a parts car with the same driveshaft on it as the one shown. It would require the yokes from both the differential and transmission to be changed. I am either going to put it on my '53 Plymouth or sell it.

[55 Fargo]

The nice thing is this, these modern cross u-joints are a Precision 302, easily available at any parts store...

[greg g]

There are at least three (maybe more) different U joint set ups used on P15's. Which type are you looking for. So folks ha found that swaping the shaft end for end (assuming it has the same ball and trunion joint on each end) and indexing it 180 degrees on the flanges, has lessened drive shaft vibrations.

here is another type

[Labrauer]

I wish I could change the u joints to the more modern type but don't know what I have to do in order to do this. Where do you get the different drive shaft and yoaks for the transmittion and the rear end? Is this something that can be done fairly easy. I have no idea but the newer ones look like they would be more easy to change if you need to. I am open for any suggestions on this matter.

[Jim Yergin]

Take a look at what blueskies has on his web site:

http://www.50plymouth.com/07-cha/cha.html

Jim Yergin

[Don Coatney]

Anybody know where I can find the u Joints for a 1948 Plymouth Special Deluxe Coupe car with a 230ci engine in it.

Has the engine been replaced in your car? Plymouth did not use a 230 CI engine in 1948. Can you give any history on this car such as where it was purchased from and a general location of where it is now located? May be a forum member close by who can assist you.

[BobT-47P15]

Don, I looked at Mr Brauer's profile, and he has not listed his location.

It would be handy if he lived near some other forum member who

could help out.

[Labrauer]

I have posted my status and profile where I live. I have updated my members list too. I am from Alvin, Texas and I am disabled since 2005 from a viral infection called Guilden Bree'. I have never been the same since that time. I have my good days and my bad days but I take them one at a time and get by the best I can.

Larry Brauer

[Roadkingcoupe]

Hi Larry

Welcome to the p15-D24 forum

Glad to hear that you can still enjoy your car.

Modifying the driveshaft with modern U-joints is a great update.

Although a little more costly at first I believe it is a good

upgrade for a vehicle that will be driven.

[Labrauer]

I guess if a 48 Plymouth car didn't come with a 230ci engine in it that means it got changed before I got the car. I purchased the car from Fast Lane Classic Cars in St. Charles Mo. The people there are real nice to talk to. I have to get the numbers off the engine to see what it came out of. Any how I don't know much about the old car except my dad had the same car when I was growing up and it was the first car I learned to drive when I was just 10 years old down the back roads. I have been looking for this same car ever since my father sold his for a little $ 25.00. I loved that car and now I have one myself. I call it my dream car which I always dreamed of having one one day.

Edited December 9, 2010 by Labrauer

[JIPJOBXX]

If you have the truion type (Old style) you can get a rebuilding kit for them and its alot cheaper. I rebuilt mine and here is a trick to center the cross pin in place. Mine was loose and is a press fit from the factory. I had a machinest drill and tap two set screws hole and used those two to hold the shaft in the right place. There is not much tolorance for this cross pin (005") and with the original pin loose I could never get the u-joint to keep in balance. But with those set screws no problem!!!!! Just a trick to save alot of money!!!

[JIPJOBXX]

If you have the truion type (Old style) you can get a rebuilding kit for them and its alot cheaper. I rebuilt mine and here is a trick to center the cross pin in place. Mine was loose and is a press fit from the factory. I had a machinest drill and tap two set screws hole and used those two to hold the shaft in the right place. There is not much tolorance for this cross pin (005") and with the original pin loose I could never get the u-joint to keep in balance. But with those set screws no problem!!!!! Just a trick to save alot of money!!!

[Jim Saraceno]

I had a whole new drive shaft with modern u-joints built for less money than the parts to rebuilt the old trunion joints.

[BobT-47P15]

Larry, welcome to the forum.

Sorry to hear of your physical situation, but happy you found the car

you wanted.

I presume you know where to find the number on the drivers' side of

the engine.

Hopefully we can be of some assistance with your project as it

moves along.

Do you know how to post pictures on here yet?

If not, maybe we can give info to get you going there.

Bob

[Roadkingcoupe]

I had a whole new drive shaft with modern u-joints built for less money than the parts to rebuilt the old trunion joints.

yes..........I find this to be the case as well.

[Labrauer]

Thanks for the welcome on the forum I have been here for some time but never put in my information on my profile till yeaterday. This is what I have been told so far on the car vibration is to flip the drive shaft and change the slitly bent rim in the back of the car to see if this helps any. I am going to do this as soon as I find the time and will keep you informed on the outcome. The vibration is like starts at about 30mph to 60mph and the faster you go the worse it seems to get. The car will do 70mph but I don't drive it that fast because of the vibration at least not till I find out what is causing it. I can feel it in the steering wheel and also on the floor board and the dash board and seat. The mirrows even shake back and forth. I am also going to check the engine mounts to see if they are ok on the car. The car has the old trounion ball type u joints on it and I know that the back rubber boot is no good with it being ripped apart so I have to change that also.

No I don't know how to post pics on the forum as of yet. Most of my pics have no URL address so I don't know what to do to post some.

Thanks for any information you can give me to try,

Larry Brauer

braular@yahoo.com

713-410-7481

[BobT-47P15]

I don't think this topic has been mentioned yet, but - how are the tires

condition wise (old, new, etc), and are they balanced correctly?

I would have a tire shop spin balance them to see. If out of round, it

can often be seen at that time. Hopefully you have a decent local

tire place.....they often are better to work with than large chain stores.

If a car with bias ply tires has sat a lot, there might be flat spots that

now won't smooth out.

Just a guess, but ya never can tell with these "oldies".

[Reg Evans]

My 42 has a vibration too but I suspect a low cylinder is causing it. When I depress the clutch at speed the vibration goes away. #1 cylinder has 70 lbs and the rest are around 110. I think you said the vibration persists when your clutch is depressed so probably not your problem.