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Posted

Great News Fred. Your perservierence has paid off. Hopefully you will get he synchroed and tuned up and reliable. Haben einige gute Spaß!!

Posted

sounds like most of your problems are resolved with the engine, the horns on the later models are mounted vertically trumpet end down in front of the radiator.

DSC0029.jpg

Posted

the dual horns are really huge, i could still mount them above the block

but i would have to build a spacer bracket to widen the gap between them

so i could mount my air cleaners.

that, however, would block the view on the carbs and would make it harder to

reach them for service and tuning.

right now i think about putting them onto the driver's side wheel case,

the only place in the engine bay where there is a little space left...

there isn't enough space in the nose of the early models, i believe.

Posted (edited)

Hey Fred, looking good! Sounds good too!

Do you think it's still doing the flutter on the step-up valve? I would definitely check that again. If it's still fluttering I'd say you need bigger balance tubes. Over some time it would probably quickly wear out some parts in that area. Fatigue is a bad thing on small parts like that.

Edited by moose___
terminology
Posted

you're right, i should check that again. i need to take the balance hoses

out again anyway, because the vacuum makes them collapse.

i will insert a spiral spring to stop that.

this said, it looks like it now runs independant after all, the hoses are nearly completely closed during operation...

so much to fiddle with...:rolleyes:

and time for the nice stuff, too!

building air cleaner adapters:

2vru64o.jpg

replacing the ground wire and adding even more ground wires

(like on Joe Flanagan's car, the starter is running wild now):

15yca6b.jpg

doing even more annoying electrical stuff

(can you believe i still hotwire the car and didn't come to get the ignition

lock switch out...d'oh!:o and andy b. didn't send me my new lock assemblies...):

15h6hd.jpg

finally restoring the hull compass:

14iluo9.jpg

in the back you can see the test mounted horns...

that won't do!:rolleyes:

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

a little update...

we started building the final exhaust.

after a lot of thinking and playing around we decided to run both

pipes on the passenger side, using the holes in the crossmember and frame.

the tubing and mufflers are mounted as close to the floor as possible,

making the frame the lowest part of the car... who knows, maybe next year i decide to go for an air ride system?:rolleyes:

pics of the exhaust build will follow.

some nice pics from the yard:

7256912iwr.jpg

7256913gef.jpg

7256914jxd.jpg

afterwards i drove to a dirt track race about 170km away from berlin.

temperature and oil pressure are fine, but i have some ugly stuff going on in the carbs

between 45 and 55 mph. full throttle operation is fine, as well as rolling around at idle in inner city traffic,

but i guess the engine is flooded in mid range... plugs are black as the night and i burnt about 20 litres per 100 km.

next thing will be setting up the oxygen sensors in the exhaust and go for some test driving.

but i'm still happy, because this is only minor trouble in my eyes.

a road side shot from the way back ( the bike lost its exhaust pipe...):

7256916ljo.jpg

Edited by Cpt.Fred
Posted

That's something like 11-12 MPG:( You should be a lot closer to 20, with a 201.

Sounds like those step-up valves are giving you full enrichment. Did you fix the balance tube issues?

Posted

no, no and no.

i didn't get to do anything because work is really killing me here,

so we started building the exhaust first.

but i couldn't help driving there anyway, sync or no sync... it's just too much fun.

but i promise i'll be good and do that next week:D

i'll get to the next shop this evening and buy some more tubing,

it's amazing how much exhaust pipe there is under that car now...

after we put the sensors in we have to change the linkage one more time in order to allow 100% throttle opening.

then i'll put coil springs into the balance hoses to prevent collapsing.

then i'll take the tops off the carbs to check for the step up jet.

then we syncronize.

and then we do test runs to see what's happening in there.

getting there, slowly.

i just have to throw myself a cookie once in a while to keep the fun in this project!

:rolleyes:

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

hi all!

just wanted to give a little update here,

i don't get to visit the board too often at the moment because work is piling up here

and i simply do not find the magic word to tackle it all at at once:rolleyes:

good news is exhaust is finished and i finally have the much desired dual exhaust

pipes under my tail bumper! i love it...

7462481osu.jpg

7462482afb.jpg

the car rolled for about a 1000km without major problems and we wanted to start test runs with our CO-testing unit the next week...

which leads us to the bad news,

because since this last saturday the car started running very rough,

massive power loss, and excessive backfiring through the exhaust pipe(s)...

the first 2 cylinders are under suspicion of refusal to work,

because the intake pipe doesn't get as cold as the other two,

and pulling the plugs on these doesn't have a big effect on engine behaviour.

there is a strong spark, but something's fishy here.

plugs were all new.

i am afraid there's something wrong with one of the exhaust valves on one of these two.

how this could happen?

i'd really like to know...

guess i move the garage first and then try my luck again.

even more work lurking in that direction...

did i mention I DON'T WANT TO PULL THAT HEAD AGAIN?

the carbs will be checked first, that's for sure.

oh, and our measuring-and-comparing-center (my friend Florian) has come up

with a nice solution for the main jets:

early rochesters use the same outer thread and bore and seem to be available in about 10-14 different jet sizes... let's see where that leads us.

but still:

boo-hooo!:eek:

..and yes, i know: i asked for it.

Posted
Step 1: compression check on all 6.

Step 2: pull the head.

Step 3: sit down, put head in hands and cry.

Step 4: GIT TO WORK!

Step 3 might not be needed as it could be as simple as a blown head gasket as there are two adjacent cylinders that are currently suspect. That would be a simple thing to fix (after checking the head and block for flatness).

Posted

i let a shop take .040 off the head, so that's clean and flat...

maybe i did something wrong when i put the new gasket in?

well, i just do that compression check first and check the carbs...

Posted
i let a shop take .040 off the head, so that's clean and flat...

maybe i did something wrong when i put the new gasket in?

well, i just do that compression check first and check the carbs...

Not sure if it applies in your case, but the biggest mistake when installing a new head gasket is not going back a few times to retorque headbolts after it has been through a heat cycle or two. I generally find that I have to retorque headbolts 2 or 3 times after the initial installation before they stop moving.

Marty

Posted
Not sure if it applies in your case, but the biggest mistake when installing a new head gasket is not going back a few times to retorque headbolts after it has been through a heat cycle or two. I generally find that I have to retorque headbolts 2 or 3 times after the initial installation before they stop moving.

Marty

Good point!!

Tom

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