Aluminum head is stuck.....help

[blueskies]

I used ARP head studs on my '50 with a finned aluminum EDGY head. The studs do not have a tapered shank. I put a bit of anti-seize on the studs before I installed the head.

I had to pull the head after about 8 years and 12000 miles. One good whack with a rubber hammer to bust loose the head gasket and it was off.

You can see the studs are clean aside from a bit of anti-seize here and there.

Not sure, but it may be that the EDGY head has a bigger tolerance around the studs than a vintage head.

Pete

[JerseyHarold]

Another idea is to break the porcelain off a spark plug, weld a quick-connect to it, then find which cylinders have closed valves and apply air pressure through the modified spark plug. This method is used to replace valve stem seals on OHV engines without pulling the head. The downside is that you'd be stressing the head unevenly with only one or two cylinders pressurized, but it might be worth a shot if all else fails.

Harold

[William Davey]

I haven't experienced the stuck head issue myself, but it sounds like the head is stuck on the head bolts. Maybe you could heat the head with a propane torch or something. As the Aluminum heats up the holes in the head will get slightly larger. Try to keep the heat source away from the head bolts. Then while it's smoking hot, hit it with PB Blaster etc.

I have experienced stripped spark plug holes on older Harley-Davidson shovelheads - also Aluminum heads. The common fix was to install a "Heli-coil" even on brand new heads. This was especially important if the compression was really high. The "Heli-coil" comes in a kit that includes the coil, the correct drill bit and a plastic tool to insert the coil and break off the tab.

I know this is a long shot, but I hope it works for you.

[38plymouth]

I got it off in under an hour. The PB blaster loosened everything up and I was able to hammer a putty knife in all around the edge until it lifted a little. I was then able to get screwdrivers under it and it came right off. It wasn't really that tight on the studs. It was stuck on really good at the rear of the head. There was no damage to anything and hopefully if my gaskets come in it will be running tomorrow night. I'm going to have the fenton head repaired correctly by a machine shop and I'll put it back on over the winter. Thanks for the tips.

[jd52cranbrook]

why are it all these heads are stripping out plugs holes..what grade is the casting..? something is amiss here in my book..but hey I don't trun the pages very often either...

As stated in another thread, I have lost plugs, or inserts in the past with my Edgerton Head. The final straw was finding bubbles constantly in my overflow tank, and learning it was coming from compression getting into the water jackets of the head. I tried different gaskets and same result. Put on the stock head and all problems went away. I have since sent the head back to Earl about 2 1/2 months ago. I did not hear back from Earl until I sent him a additional email at 2 months. His reply was that he had not had time to look at it yet, but will soon. I have since talked to another member in a club who found casting cracks in his head after shaving 100 thousands off. Yes that could be too much to shave for valve clearance, but what about finding the casting hairline cracks?

I am waiting patiently, so far, to hear back from Earl on the issue. But I wont be putting one back on my car until I am completely satisfied it was made correctly. These heads are for looks, and heat dissipation benefit. There is no 9:1 compression that has been mentioned on here.

Didn't mean to hijack the thread, but you have it off and hopefully will have the holes fixed correctly. I finally had one welded shut completely and re tapped.

[james49ply]

after hearing all the problems with aluminum heads, I know I will stick with the origional cast iron. now to find a way to keep it cool in 95= degree weather.

[dezeldoc]

after hearing all the problems with aluminum heads, I know I will stick with the origional cast iron. now to find a way to keep it cool in 95= degree weather.

Other than looks, run one of the aluminum radiators it will bring down the temps about 15* or more.

[38plymouth]

As stated in another thread, I have lost plugs, or inserts in the past with my Edgerton Head. The final straw was finding bubbles constantly in my overflow tank, and learning it was coming from compression getting into the water jackets of the head. I tried different gaskets and same result. Put on the stock head and all problems went away. I have since sent the head back to Earl about 2 1/2 months ago. I did not hear back from Earl until I sent him a additional email at 2 months. His reply was that he had not had time to look at it yet, but will soon. I have since talked to another member in a club who found casting cracks in his head after shaving 100 thousands off. Yes that could be too much to shave for valve clearance, but what about finding the casting hairline cracks?

I am waiting patiently, so far, to hear back from Earl on the issue. But I wont be putting one back on my car until I am completely satisfied it was made correctly. These heads are for looks, and heat dissipation benefit. There is no 9:1 compression that has been mentioned on here.

Didn't mean to hijack the thread, but you have it off and hopefully will have the holes fixed correctly. I finally had one welded shut completely and re tapped.

I'm thinking I may have to have one hole welded too. There are oversized inserts that are made for when regular ones fail. I can't find anyone in NY that does it though. I think I may have to send it somewhere to get it done. I never had a problem with any leakage with mine.

[greg g]

Call this guy, he did my engine a few years back, I'm sure he can deal with helicoils.

http://maps.google.com/maps/place?hl=en&wrapid=tlif12845579426732&um=1&ie=UTF-8&q=james+farrand+engines&fb=1&gl=us&hq=james+farrand+engines&hnear=Syracuse,+NY&cid=525430387520154226

He is near the Danzer's Restaurant near Brighton and Ainsely Drive.

[jd52cranbrook]

I used these time serts.

http://www.timesert.com/

Then had to go to Big Serts on a few

http://www.timesert.com/html/bigsert.html

Your better off welding the holes shut and re-tapping. There is hardly any meat (3/8 inch or so) at the plug hole for these inserts.

[jd52cranbrook]

That's 3/8 inch for this Edgerton head. Not sure what yours may be.

If you do get it welded, be sure to have it surfaced as it may warp.

[48mirage]

Remove the studs.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/HEAD-STUD-REMOVAL-TOOL,2617.html

[Big_John]

Call this guy, he did my engine a few years back, I'm sure he can deal with helicoils.

http://maps.google.com/maps/place?hl=en&wrapid=tlif12845579426732&um=1&ie=UTF-8&q=james+farrand+engines&fb=1&gl=us&hq=james+farrand+engines&hnear=Syracuse,+NY&cid=525430387520154226

He is near the Danzer's Restaurant near Brighton and Ainsely Drive.

mmm Danzer's .... get a Spaten dark draft and sauerbraten.... mmmm

But if Jim Farrand can't do it, call Brian at Syracuse Crank & Machine on Luther Ave in Liverpool. (315) 475-9893

[38plymouth]

The problem I have is I need bigserts installed or the holes need to be welded and then regular insertsput in. I already have the regular inserts in them and one of them pulled out. I want it fixed right with something stronger and I want them all done proffesionally this time. According to the "bigsert" company nobody does it in NY.

[jd52cranbrook]

That's why I would get them welded shut by a master welder and re tapped. I would not trust any insert on these heads anymore. I had my one done and tapped by the same guy.

But now you are getting into if they need to be hardened again or not. My welder said no. But to be honest I don't really know.

I just don't think any insert or helicoil, or any advertised fixed will work on these heads without filling the hole up and starting over.

I wish you much luck. You have one good thing going to start with when you stated you were not getting any compression leakage. But be very careful if you get the head surfaced in how much is taken off.

[JIPJOBXX]

I would try a Heli coil-we used them down at the shipyard on different items and they worked quit well. All you doing is going to drill out the old threads and make a:cool: larger hole to run a tap in and then install a heli coil. Not that hard of a job. I do not see any problems with this fix. Maybe there is but where?

[martybose]

after hearing all the problems with aluminum heads, I know I will stick with the origional cast iron. now to find a way to keep it cool in 95= degree weather.

The problem he is having with removing the head is with the factory studs, not the aluminum head per se.

Now the sparkplug threads, that one is the aluminum head!

Marty

[martybose]

That's 3/8 inch for this Edgerton head. Not sure what yours may be.

If you do get it welded, be sure to have it surfaced as it may warp.

The sparkplugs on my Edmunds aluminum head are 1/2" reach. Didn't figure it out until I stripped a 3/8" plug out of one hole. I had the entire head redone with 1/2" timecerts while it was off.

Marty

[38plymouth]

I would try a Heli coil-we used them down at the shipyard on different items and they worked quit well. All you doing is going to drill out the old threads and make a:cool: larger hole to run a tap in and then install a heli coil. Not that hard of a job. I do not see any problems with this fix. Maybe there is but where?

I did the helicoil already, that stripped out too. Now I have a larger hole to fix.

The good news is I had the stock head on and had it running in 1 1/2 hours tonight. I need to change the oil and then run it so I can retorque the head.

[Frank Elder]

To me the aluminum head is not worth it, it's pretty I'll give it that:)

They warp, have thread issues, and have porosity issues. Yes they dissipate heat quicker, how much heat do you need to get rid of anyway......you can mill down a stock head and gain the same compression without the hassle of the costly aluminum head.

My 2 cents.

[38plymouth]

To me the aluminum head is not worth it, it's pretty I'll give it that:)

They warp, have thread issues, and have porosity issues. Yes they dissipate heat quicker, how much heat do you need to get rid of anyway......you can mill down a stock head and gain the same compression without the hassle of the costly aluminum head.

My 2 cents.

I'm almost thinking for the money an original fenton brings I could sell it and get disc brakes and a t-5. I'd notice those mods more.