Heater questions

[Dan Babb]

Took the heater apart last night to see if it worked. After moving the blades a bit to clear some interference, it spins freely when connected to the battery. I plan on reinstalling it since it now works and didn't leak when it was in the truck.

I did a search last night and couldn't find any info on this heater. There aren't any part number or tags on it either.

Anyone ever see one like this?

After reading last night, I'm wondering why the inlet/output are both on the bottom. Unless the tank has some type of divider in it, looks like water would just stay in the bottom tank ( this was in the truck with both tubes on the bottom).

Should there be some type of cut-off valve in the engine bay. With it installed as it was, you'd have hot water always flowing through and wind up with radiant heat coming off it. It's hot enough in the summer without needing an extra heat source in the cab. Should I not worry about that? I'm not looking for extra work.

I won't need the panel light spot on my dash, so I'm thinking of using a headlight light switch with a dimmer on it to power the heater. Thinking I could pull it to turn on the fan and use the dimmer to control the fan speed.

I'll be converting to 12v, so I could use put a voltage regulator ( or whatever it's called) to drop the power to 6v before the switch.

[JBNeal]

Looks kinda like an Arvin heater...if you're going to 12V, why not just put a new 12V heater fan motor in place of the used 6V motor

 

such as NAPA BK 6551083

Edited January 19, 2022 by JBNeal
added information

[Young Ed]

I might have an extra one like that laying around the garage. And yes just substitute a 12v motor. Much easier.

[greg g]

your coolant is under pressure from your water pump. There is probably a divider in the tank.

[MBF]

You can use a ballast resistor in line to the fan motor if you can't find a 12V replacement. (did that w my 52 Dodge, and 36 Plym years ago). If you have the externally bypassed thermostat housing-you can put a petcock/valve on the bypass housing to shut off the flow of water to the heater circuit. You may have problems using a headlight switch to control blower motor since it has a built in circuit breaker and there really isn't a resistor in either of the ON positions of the switch circuit to control the motor speed. Mike

[Dan Babb]

Any ideas on where to get a 12v motor for the heater?

I think it will be easier and safe to get a new motor than it would be to make a voltage reducer that would be able to handle the amps.

[anthonyb]

Dan,

I just bought one from O'Reilly. It's the same one Pete Anderson (Blueskies) showed as a direct replacement some time back. It is the same size as the

6V motor and can be wired to run either direction.

The part number is MRY 35560. Made in Canada. Cost was $25.99 plus shipping.

I'm sure most other parts places could get the same thing.

AnthonyB

[Dan Babb]

I just tried to search all the major parts sites with that part number and it didn't come up.

Do you know who makes that motor or have any other details I can use to hunt it down?

[anthonyb]

Dan,

I forgot I saved a copy of the pic that Pete posted. Here it is and you can read the label for all the info.

It is a Uni Motor and the numbers are 14560 12V 01134. I gave this info to the parts clerk and she crossed it to the number I gave you before.

Hope this gets you what you are looking for.

AnthonyB

[Don Coatney]

I simply installed a ball valve as a heater cut off valve. Not sure your heater was made by Arvin but my dad worked at the Arvin plant in Columbus, Indiana as a radio design engineer when I was born in 1947.

[Dan Babb]

Thanks...that picture is a big help.

Don, I like the shutoff valve idea. I might want to get one I can control with a cable in the cab, but that's a good option (if I can find a spot to run that on my hemi).

[MBF]

Hi Dan. If you can't find a 12V motor, the ballast resistor works well hooked between the battery source and the variable switch. I've been using these in my 52 1 ton, and 36 Plymouth for several years now w/o a problem. Granted these don't run everyday, but when the roads are dry, and I need to take a ride they do the job. Nothing like heat to increase the enjoyment of an old vehicle. Mike

[Dan Babb]

Did you have to make your own ballast resistor or did you find one that just splices between the switch & the motor?

EDIT...just found a post here. Is this white thing what I need to buy? If so, just run the wire from the fan switch into one end of this and then the other end out to the fan?

Edited November 3, 2010 by Dan Babb

[Don Coatney]

One like this will work.

[sniggle_t]

I used a heater controll valve like this one from a 67 Bronco

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1413863&parttype=6860&a=FRc1413863k84452-1486272

[bridog57]

Where can i get a shut off valve 1949 dodge truck mine is leaking dcm has them but 42 bucks is high i think

[DJ194950]

http://ecatalog.smpcorp.com/FS/#/searchparts/searchText/heater parts catalog?type=p&search

If you go to four seasons heater parts catalog you can search for blower motors, water control valves and more by looking at the product types on the search for on the left edge on the search part by categories and find just about any type/ voltage shaft size water control type /on/off/ push or pull with cable etc.  Make take a bit of time but if you get a part number most part chains (napa was one that did sell this line ) that could get almost anything they make.

Maybe take longer than someone getting a number for you but--- 

DJ