Radiator recore

[John-T-53]

After patching the original radiator several times over the years, and chasing a leak that never went away, I had to bite the bullet and have it recored.

The last effort to use Bar's Leaks actually made the leaks worse as it seemed to plug up the core even more, pressurizing the top tank. Every time the thermostat opened, I got a surge out the cap as the core couldn't absorb the sudden increase in flow.

I'm not a big fan of the look of the newer style core, but at least it's high quality and will last me a couple decades at least. The shop (San Carlos Radiator) did a heck of a job and the radiator came out looking better than new. Unfortunately, it cost me nearly 400 bucks (ouch!).

I looked into getting an original style core (a v-cell), but it was extremely cost prohibitive. There's apparently only one place that makes them in the country - Maine Radiator, and their prices are around $1k for just the core (ok, maybe worth it if it's going on a Packard, Bugatti, Rolls, or the like).

From the pics I've seen on here, looks like a lot of you still have the original rads in your trucks.

Edited July 23, 2010 by John-T-53

[TodFitch]

Been there, done that. And it is amazing how many period Plymouth experts don't even notice that the core is wrong. The newer style core on my car really works well, if yours performs anything like mine you will be very pleased.

[Merle Coggins]

I had to recore mine with a modern tube and fin core. Once it's installed you'd have to look pretty close to notice the difference. I've never had any heating issues with my truck, partially due to the good rediator core.

Merle

[austinsailor]

Wow! I sold a perfectly good original radiator for $50 recently. Guess I gave away the ranch, huh?

[Young Ed]

Don't worry at the swap meet for back to the 50s we got a car radiator that had been recored with a heavy duty 3row core along with another good looking original for $25.

[David Muma]

http://allshops.org/cgi-bin/community/communityalbums.cgi?action=openalbum&albumid=9980171507156

[John-T-53]

I had a little leak happen at the tank seam, which is very rare with a good recore job. The shop suggested I replace the cap. They could not test the cap.

1950 and up trucks had a 4# cap, right?

Where could I get a cap that is for sure the correct pressure rating? I'm not sure the cap I have on there is 4#...might be higher. It does not say on the cap.

VPW and Roberts could not help. Could I get some of you to weigh in here who have had experience with this?

Thanks,

[ggdad1951]

I got my cap for my 51 from Roberts...odd...

[maverick]

I had a little leak happen at the tank seam, which is very rare with a good recore job. The shop suggested I replace the cap. They could not test the cap.

1950 and up trucks had a 4# cap, right?

Where could I get a cap that is for sure the correct pressure rating? I'm not sure the cap I have on there is 4#...might be higher. It does not say on the cap.

VPW and Roberts could not help. Could I get some of you to weigh in here who have had experience with this?

Thanks,

i dont believe that the radiator cap should be that of a pressure type. mine is flat like the gas cap and leaves the radiator open to atmosphere via the vent tube.

[Bob916ca]

Napa has them in stock / Raditor Cap 4 lbs. Part # 703-1419 just purchased

mine 5/27/11. Hope this helps!

Edited June 5, 2011 by Bob916ca

[John-T-53]

Thank you sir! Probably a Balkamp part?

Yeah, Roberts has radiator caps for non-pressurized systems. They list them as for years '39-'50.

I'll call Napa Monday.