The Shocking Truth

[HanksB3B]

My 51 B3B rides very stiff and feels every crack, bump and forget about hitting even a small pothole. Thing is I've come to sort of accept that this is the way our trucks ride, but my question is to what degree is this true.

I've never replaced the shocks and have never really looked to see what I'm riding on but am just assuming they are the original shocks. The only "test" I remember is to push down hard on the bumper and if the vehicle bounces more that once you need new shocks. If the shocks merely rebound and settle you're shocks are o.k. This method sound's about as scientific as kicking the tires at a used car lot.

How do I know if buying/installing new shocks will make a difference, or is it just one of those things that may/may be worth it.

Thanks,

Hank

I did some homework and found what Merle had to say:

I got my shocks from Auto Zone and they fit and work perfectly. They even had one set in stock, which supprised the young kid behind the counter. So I sent to their web site and looked them up again. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/

Here are the specs that they show for their Gabriel Guardian shock absorbers.

Front - Part number 81147

Extended length = 20.23 inches / 514mm

Collapsed length = 12.37 inches / 314mm

Stroke = 7.86 inches / 200mm

Rear - Part number 82007

Extended length = 18.23 inches / 463mm

Collapsed length = 11.73 inches / 298mm

Stroke = 6.86 inches / 174mm

I would have to say that if the shocks are too long to fit when fully collapsed then they are not the correct ones.

EDIT: Since my truck is a B2C and Fernando's is a B3B I had a look again. They show the rear using the same part number but the front uses P/N 61500, although the length specs are the same.

Edited March 24, 2010 by HanksB3B

[Reg Evans]

Good working shocks are an important part of making the ride as smooth as can be along with a good set of tires. Bias ply tires will give you a rougher ride than radials. What kind of tires are you running ?

[JBNeal]

Good shocks also help with braking. When brakes are applied, the shocks absorb the inertia of the frame + body as it wants to continue in the same direction as it had been travelling. Poor shocks will allow the frame + body to lurch about as the springs travel unfettered, increasing braking distance. This is a similar to hauling a large liquid container that is half full; the sloshing of the liquid has a pulsating effect on braking.

[HanksB3B]

Thanks Guys.

Good working shocks are an important part of making the ride as smooth as can be along with a good set of tires. Bias ply tires will give you a rougher ride than radials. What kind of tires are you running

My tires are Michelin 235/75/R15

Good shocks also help with braking. When brakes are applied, the shocks absorb the inertia of the frame + body as it wants to continue in the same direction as it had been travelling. Poor shocks will allow the frame + body to lurch about as the springs travel unfettered, increasing braking distance. This is a similar to hauling a large liquid container that is half full; the sloshing of the liquid has a pulsating effect on braking.

Well when you say "Good Shocks" could the Gabriel Guardian shocks for $16.99 possibly be "Good" at that price. Merle if you see this, are you still happy with yours.

Autozone ordered fronts and rears (without me having to pay upfront) 82007 and 81147 and is going to give me a call tomorrow. I'll take a look at them. So without knowing what shape mine are in do you think for $74.59 it's worth the gamble just to switch them out, or do you think I should look deeper into what shape my current ones are in. They are not mushy or like a large half filled liquid container. Jus the rides so stiff and bumpy. Signing off till tonite, going for a bumpy ride...

Hank

Edited March 24, 2010 by HanksB3B

[Merle Coggins]

I have no complaints with mine. Bit I don't see how bad shocks would cause a harsh ride over bumps unless they were seized up and have the suspension locked. If they no longer provide the proper damping, then they would give you a pogo ride fealing (after hitting a bump the truck continues to bounce).

When is the last time your spring shackles have been greased? If these don't move freely then the springs can't work properly and it will ride harshly. It's not going to ride like a coil spring vehicle, but it shouldn't so bad that it knocks your teeth loose.

Merle

[1949P17BC]

Rough ride maybe associated with the springs. Try putting 500 pounds in the bed and then see howit rides

[48Dodger]

You need to measure the compression and rebound to make sure you're getting the full benifit of your shocks. If your rate of compression is to slow (stiff) or rebound to slow (stiff), you'll have a pretty rough ride. Shocks don't carry the load but rather dampen the frame. Without shocks the frame would continue to oscilate til the energy disapates. Knowing how to "read" your ride is important to fixing the problem. Wheel hop and traction can tell you if your shock is doing its job. Your inital ride comes from the leaf springs. if you aren't happy with the first "bounce" (to much or to little), you may not be able to correct it with the right shock. With a soild front axle comes more of a "shimmy" due to bump transfer from one wheel to the other. Here's a good article to read about basic suspension concepts, another on shock design, and another on how to measure for the right shock.

http://rqriley.com/suspensn.htm

http://www.4x4review.com/Features/Tech/BeAGeniusShockAbsorbers/tabid/307/Default.aspx

http://www.proshocks.com/srshocks/tech1a.htm

48D

[grey beard]

Don't even think about it - replace those old shocks with new gas shocks and you'll be happier. LIke Merle says, lube all twelve of your spring hanger grease zerks - three on each spring - check it out - AND try about 25 pounds in your tires to see how they react.

These old trucks were built tough to haul hevy loads - not to ride well, especially when they're empty. My rear springs each had eight leaves. I removed three from each side and what a difference. Now it rides kinda' nice for an old truck - not like an empty 1 1/2 ton, like it used to, AND now it sits level, instead of havin' it's back side up in the air . . .

Good Luck

[Allen I.]

Agreed.

Less than $100, some time and some grease should make a difference. Then use it like a truck. My truck never rode better than when I had a deck's worth of lumber in the back.

Rode so good, I thought something may have broken.

[Dan Babb]

How do you remove leaves from the rear?

Is it an "Easy at home job" or 'bring it to a shop' job?

[HanksB3B]

Just about everything is either new, refurbished, or rebuilt on my truck. I'm curious as to what shocks I have on there now, but if Merle's happy with his Autozone ones just to get an even starting point I'm going to install the new ones probably tomorrow. I don't get the bouncy effect happening so maybe..

Like 49dodger says:

"Compression is to slow (stiff) or rebound to slow (stiff), you'll have a pretty rough ride"

or Merle:

I don't see how bad shocks would cause a harsh ride over bumps unless they were seized up and have the suspension locked. (Maybe they are seized)

Maybe a previous owner just did not have proper ones installed.

I recently pumped Kendall Super Blue Grease into every zerk fitting, replacing any ones that were not flowing well. I had previously used Mobile Synthetic which is purple in color, but found it liquified in any substantial heat.

I don't know if you've ever heard of the Super Blue. It was recommended to me by Johnson's Alignment when they straightened my tie rods and lubed the front end. They are a third generation family business. All alignments they do are done by hand whether it's a competition Porsche GT2 or a vintage auto.

I don't remember three zerk fittings per spring, but I'll double check while I'm there.

Thanks once more,

Hank

[MBF]

To remove leafs you'll have to jack up the truck and support it by the chassis so that there is no weight on the axle. Then disconnect the rear of the driveshaft dnd undo the u-bolts that support the axles and remove them. Roll the axle clear of the springs. Next you'll need to remove the center bolt or rivet that holds the leaves together on the spring along with the clamps on the spring. Remove the desired leaf(s) and then install a new center bolt and reinstall the axle. Easier said than done, but that's the jist of it! Mike

[HanksB3B]

I don't remember if if I have to remove the wheels and need a jack, and jackstands. I seem to remember leaving the wheels on and only using a jack to help set up center to center dimensions to make it easier to install the new ones. But not sure.

Thanks in advance,

Hank

[HanksB3B]

It was simple to remove the old ones and install the new ones. All it took was a hat, a piece of carpet, a rag, grease, a rubber mallet, a 7/8" wrench and a wire clipper. With the wheels straight loosen top and bottom, remove the shock, lightly grease the mounting point put the upper part on first, detach the bailing wire tie and as the shock expands attach to the lower mounting point.

With the old shocks I bottomed out a few times and thought "Gee I didn't hit that bump THAT hard".

The interesting thing is all four of the shocks were Monroe marked 1031 C12C2.

From what Merle wrote in another thread (below) I did not have the correct shocks anywhere on the truck. (Guess that pretty much splains it)

Original

Front MAE-80012, GK-FHB754

Rear MAE-80013, GK-FHB820

(MAE - Monroe Auto Equipment Co.)

On the test drive the truck felt a lot more comfortable and although no one here knows what washboard is we do have some roads where either the paving is not in good shape, or a new pipe trench was poorly paved. There's a whole lot less teeth chattering going on now. I won't say the truck feels "floaty" but I will say a bump on any wheel now feels like it is distributed between all four points which makes the ride a whole lot smoother. The truck feels like it has suspension now.

Before I throw the old shocks out, I'll extend and compress each one to see what they feel like. Judging by the overall shape they must have been on there from 1979. I don't recall ever replacing them. I parked it in 1985 and it sat until 2005. That's when I started her second restoration.

Gabriel Pro Guard 61500 Front 23.99ea

Gabriel Classic 82007 Rear 16.99ea

Thanks for the help it was well worth it!

Hank

Edited March 26, 2010 by HanksB3B

[48Dodger]

Nice work Hank.

Guess it won't be long before you're tuning your suspension for maximum performance. See you at the next local Autocross event right? lol.

Just for fun: I don't autocross, but here's a factory HP set-up driven by a guy crazier than me. lol

48D

[HanksB3B]

Don't think I'll be doing that any time soon with my Truck.

Hank

[dontknowitall]

what shocks for a 1950 B2B? How do you measure them?

[Fernando Mendes]

Apreciate this rare pic and answer your questions about rear shock absorbers.

[Fernando Mendes]

dontknowitall,measure the distance between the rear mount shock,that will be approach the shock compressed length + 1/2 travel.This is very simple,no? or " rear mount length=compr. length+1/2 travel"

[HanksB3B]

what shocks for a 1950 B2B? How do you measure them?

just log on to Autozones web sit (or other vendor) then cross-check with either Gabriel, Monroe or any other manufacturer of your choice to see what you come up with.

Hank

[Fernando Mendes]

Hank, don't forget,before install your new shocks,you have to do five times compress and extend it.Did you do this?

[dontknowitall]

ok, thanks all

[HanksB3B]

Hank, don't forget,before install your new shocks,you have to do five times compress and extend it.Did you do this?

They are gas shocks.

Thanks,

Hank

[Fernando Mendes]

Hank,which kind of advantage they have then the original oil?

[HanksB3B]

But Merle liked them, they were inexpensive, I got them and they work great! They were ordered through Autozone. Someone better qualified may be able to answer your question re "oil" or "gas" shocks.

Hank